albino

I'm getting ready to rebuild a limited slip I recently got a hold of and am having some trouble finding some basic torque specs in the fsm. I'm looking for torque specs for the nuts attaching the third member, ring gear bolts, drive shaft flange bolts, etc... All I can find in the fsm are a few random torques called out in the text and then a table in the general information section that gives bolt grade, size, and torque. The table is not all that useful especially for things like the third member attachment nuts. Am I missing something in the fsm or is that all there is? Thanks in advance.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/all-you-needed-to-know-about-nissan-axles-through-2004-t233955.html This is where I'm getting my spline count info. There is a lot of discussion on the forums about this with most people saying all r50's have 33 spline shafts and a few people saying there was a switch from 31 to 33 splines at some point.

For some reason I was thinking the r50 had 31 spline rear axle shafts and the Xterra had 33 spline shafts... am I wrong and you can just do a straight swap from Xterra to r50? Im hoping Im wrong cuz there is an 00 Xterra sitting in the junkyard down the street with an LSD that I would really like! If I got the Xterra 3rd member could I use the pathy ring and pinion gears on it?

yeah that is what I have heard... now that you mention it I think I might have left a few pieces of heat shielding up there too

Apparently they found some Indian artifacts around the trail so they shut it down "temporarily". Hopefully it will open up again one day

Im gonna try and start this up again with a lot more notice this time. Would any east coast guys be down for a Uwharrie run sometime this summer? The camping is free off the trails and its only $5 to ride for the day. It looks like Rocky Mountain loop will be shut down for the season but we can still have some fun on the other trails. If this gains some interest we can plan out a date that works well for everyone. Im thinking a weekend trip.

I wonder if you could be blowing fluid out the transmission breather. If I recall correctly it points towards the passenger side of vehicle. I don't know why pressure would be high enough to cause that but it might be worth checking. The breather is abouve the transmission and you really have to feel around for it. There should be some vacuum line connected to it. If the line is clogged it can cause a pressure buildup.

I've used a heat gun before and it worked fairly well. As was mentioned it is better to heat a larger area to get a better quality bend. Try not to heat the pipe all in one place at once and then move it over and heat another place. Keep the heat gun moving to get the whole bend area hot gradually. I pulled the pipe against a plywood template to help get the right angle and radius. No matter what you do it is really hard to get a perfect bend out of pvc especially when you're shooting for a really small radius.

Well Uwharrie OHV trails shut down on Dec. 15th and it is a long four months before they open again so I am trying to get a last run in this coming weekend. Nothing crazy, just trying to go for the day on Saturday (Dec 1st) or Sunday (Dec 2nd) and do a little wheeling. Let me know if you would be interested in making the trip.

I have had the p1444 in the past. I believe that that code deals specifically with the EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Vavle. If your engine bay looks like this than I can help: If I remember correctly than the EVAP system changed significantly half way through 98 so some 98's have the system in the picture and others have an older system. If you have the system in the picture than your problem is with the valve that I circled. Possibly a bad wiring connection or the valve itself is bad due to wear or a bad charcoal canister. To check for bad charcoal canister: You can disconnect the hoses that I traced in red in the picture and check them to see if they are clogged with pieces of charcoal. In my case, the hose closest to the valve was full of charcoal. I actually had the P1440 code first and when that cleared was left with the P1444 code but it is possible you have this problem. If there is charcoal in the lines than that means the charcoal in your canister has broken up and should be replaced. This is an easy replacement. However, when you replace the canister you should also blow out all the evap lines. There is a hardline that runs from the engine bay all the way to the back drivers side corner of the vehicle where it connects to the canister. This line should be blown out with compressed air (I used a shop vac and some duct tape to suck the charcoal out). The small rubber hoses connecting the various parts of the EVAP system should also be blown out (the hoses I traced in red and some similar hoses that connect to the EVAP canister). In my case the charcoal had clogged the Purge Volume Control Valve causing the P1444 code. I replaced it with the same valve from a 98 altima and the code cleared out. Here is a post that might help: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33018-p1440-evap-small-leak/. It took me a while to figure out which valve the P1444 was referring to. If you don't see charcoal in the lines than try checking the wiring to the valve. If you leave the hood open and turn the ignition to on (don't turn the engine on) you should be able to hear the valve click if it is working correctly. I had someone else turn the key while I listened to the valve to hear it click. Hope this helps.

You were right on with the second guess. I put a little piece of adhesive backed foam pad on the door where it comes into contact with the sensor and now the sensor is getting compressed enough. Thanks for the help.

A few weeks ago I was driving and I went around a turn and the door ajar light came on. I figured one of my doors just wasn't shut tightly. Unfortunately that was not the case and now my door ajar light is on/flickering almost all the time while I drive. It is definitely the passenger door sensor that is acting up. I switched the sensor with a decent condition used one and the problem didn't go away. I then switched the passenger sensor with one of the rear sensors that I know works properly...the light was still on. I know that it is the passenger door becuase if I turn the car on I can push/pull on all the doors and the light only turns on/off when I get to the passenger door. Anyone know how the door sensor wiring works? I am assuming I am looking for a bad ground or some bad insulation on the sensor wiring.

Sent you a PM

Got inspired by all these pictures Step 1 completed: Steps 2-500 left...

I don't think you would have a problem running all the lines together but I don't know if I would end it in the airbox. When I was originally looking into doing this mod I stumbled across this website: http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/42997-Extended-axle-transmission-breathers When I get a snorkel installed I plan on running my lines similar to what that guy did. If you run them into the airbox than you have to worry about making sure that everything is still perfectly sealed and there is a larger potential for problems. Also I would put a cheap fuel filter in the line somewhere near the open end so that bugs can't crawl down the lines and clog them up.

I have some gussets connecting the square tubing to the frame. The gussets have 13 inches of weld connecting them to the frame so I am thinking that should be enough to keep the load distributed but I will have to take them out for some testing soon!

Here are some pictures of the frame, sorry it took so long to get them uploaded! The one annoying thing about this setup is that the frame blocks the holes that the cargo rug/fabric fasteners attach to on the top of the seat. I originally tried to attach the fabric using some velcro strips. It worked great in the winter but this summer the heat melted the adhesive off the metal frame and I was left with a sticky mess that I just fixed yesterday. Now im trying some snap fasteners for the attachment which I think will work really well.

Alright I got around to taking some final pictures today.... heres how she looks now: The sliders are welded to some gussets which are welded to the frame. Hopefully that will help distribute the load across the frame so nothing will fatigue. I am hoping to make extras of everything next summer when I get a break from school and work. By that time I should have some prototype skids as well. Then I will get started on some bumpers which I am really looking forward to!

Well I set out this summer to learn some basic metalworking and build a full set of skids. Unfortunately, I ran out of time in the summer but I did finish building a control arm crosslink, a new crossmember, and some sliders. With a little luck I will get some skids made sometime before next spring. In the mean time, here is what I made... Cross-link and Crossmember: Close-up of the Crossmember: Sliders just after being put together: After powder coating: Just before install: Now if it would just stop raining outside I could take some pictures of the final product! The new crossmember is much beefier than the stock crossmember and has a slightly higher clearance. I made sure to drill a few extra holes in everything for mounting the skid plates when I get around to it.

Did the shop supply you with instructions for install? Your truck is looking good, now im thinking I should start the search for an axle...

Its a 48 inch jack. I had originally just bolted L brackets to the sheet metal on the back of the seats but the sheet was too flimsy and it moved around too much. As a result I made a frame out of some 3/16 steel bar and bolted the L brackets to that. The frame spans the width and height of the seats and is attached via a ton of sheet metal screws to distribute the load over the sheet metal. I am going to take some pictures of the frame next time I take the jack off, I've just been pretty busy lately. Also the frame is two different parts so the seats can still move seperately when needed.

Here is how I mounted mine: It takes up minimal space so I can still fit roughly the same amount of stuff in the cargo area. Seats still fold up and down fine but have to fold together if the jack is attached. The reason I chose this setup is I can leave the jack mounted all the time without worrying about theft or rust.

I was able to tell my canister was bad by checking the vac lines under the hood. On my 98 there is a green evap service port on the drivers side of the engine compartment closest to the rear of the vehicle. On one side of the port, tubing goes to the evap hardline which goes to the canister, on the other side, tubing connects to the purge valve and the engine. I would check these smaller hoses for charcoal which may indicate you need a new canister. This is how I fixed my p1440 code.

Alright so I have completed all my breather extensions and I thought I would post what I did in case anyone else was wondering how to do this. The basic idea behind this project is to get the breather hoses higher up to prevent water from getting into any gears while off-road. What I Used: o 26+ ft of fuel hose - I just snipped a piece of the existing breather hose off of the t-case and rear diff breathers and picked a hose similar to both of them, 26 ft was barely enough so 28-30 ft might be a little safer o 2 cheap fuel filters o 2 male-male 1/4 inch barbs o 2 3-way 1/4 barbs o some aluminum tubing o 1 male-male 3/16 to 1/4 barb o a lot of small hose clamps (screw/hex head type) I started out by choosing where to put the extended breathers, I decided on the drivers side rear of the engine compartment since there was some open space there. Using the aluminum tubing I made a pretty basic bracket for mounting all of my hoses. There are a lot of different ways to do this but here is how I made my bracket: There are four breather lines that need to be extended: o front diff o rear diff o transmission o transfer case Knowing where my bracket was going to be, I was able to start adding extension hoses from the breathers to the bracket. I started with the front differential which is the most time consuming part of this procedure. The stock front diff setup has a small breather hose going from the diff to a hardline under the engine block. If you feel your way down the hardline you will see that it goes to the rear of the engine comparment and then bends downward and ends. In order to extend the front diff breather, I bypassed the hardline completely. After removing the splash shield/front skid you can access the small breather hose. There is a clamp securing this hose to the breather and another clamp securing it to the hardline. I removed both clamps and then removed the hose. I then fed a new hose down from the breather bracket I made to the front diff breather. I secured the hose to the front diff with a new clamp and then used zip ties to anchor the hose to the side of the engine compartment. I then cut the hose at the bracket. Its very hard to see but in the center of this picture is the front diff breather. The picture was taken from above the engine looking down. Next I moved on to the transfer case and transmission breathers. The transfer case breather starts at the rear of the casing above the rear driveshaft. The transmission breather starts on top of the transmission on the drivers side. Both breather hoses run above the transmission and up to the bell housing. On top of the bell housing, the hoses connect to two separate hardlines that go up behind the engine block and then turn down and end. If you lay under the truck on the passenger side you should be able to feel where the hoses meet the hardlines. I disconnected the hoses from the hardlines at this point in order to bypass them. I fed new hose from the bracket, across the back of the engine compartment and down to the top of the bell housing. Using male-male barbs and clamps I connected the original breather hoses to my new hoses. I then cut the new hoses off at my breather bracket. You will notice that the breather hoses for the t-case and transmission are not clamped on, I added a clamp to the t-case breather but the transmission breather was too hard to get to so I left it as is. This is a picture of the top of the bell housing from the passenger side. The breather hoses are located behind the large hose in the picture. This is a picture of how I fed my new hoses down to the bell housing. At this point, I moved on to the rear differential. The hosing used for the rear differential is a nice thick hose so I decided to use it. I ran a new hose from my bracket, down the drivers side of the frame, up above the gas skid and back to where the current breather hose ended. I secured the new hose using zip ties. I then connected the new hose to the old hose using a 1/4 inch to 3/16 inch barb. It took some serious work to get the 3/16 barb into the old breather hose so maybe a smaller barb could be used. I secured both ends with hose clamps and then pushed the old breather hose down in its bracket to ensure that it would not be pulled tight when the axle flexed. This is a picture of the rear breather extension. At this point I had all four new breather hoses run to my breather bracket. I joined the two diff breathers using a three way barb and did the same with the transmission and t-case breathers. I then bent the two hose ends downwards through my bracket and connected them to some cheap fuel filters. This just keeps the bugs and dust out. There is a picture of this setup at the beginning of the post. Here is what I ended with: Hope this helps anyone thinking about doing this mod! It is pretty straightforward but just takes a little time and patience.

I think I have the same leak as you, looks like I already have an "L" as the connector and coolant is leaking from where the "L" connects to the block... did you have to drain the whole system to fix this or were you able to disconnect the hose with little coolant coming out?