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Custom 2WD steering system conversion


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Mine is still running great, mind you not quite as beefy as tungstens but i just need something to hold out until after tech school so i can sas it! :) and yeah i am pretty impressed with it too. i have no idea why they used the 4x4 system for steering...night and day difference when lifted.

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There must be a reason why Nissan switched to rack and pinion on the second generation Pathfinder. Something tells me that they already knew about this problem but didn't think it would be a major concern. Not sure why they carried over the awkward design to the Xterra though. The 4WD link design only works properly if the tie rods sit parallel to the center link. To get that, the torsion bars have to be cranked down to their lowest limit and that makes for almost no travel room to the lower bump stops on the lower arms. If you crank it down that low, which is how I had it, you will be hitting the bump stops every time you go over a bump, which makes the ride quality as bad as an old Jeep CJ5. You could shave down the lower bump stops but why make the truck a low rider? The 2WD link with its longer inner tie rods allows for a better angle. At stock height the links are still more straight looking compared to the 4WD link design. The new 2WD system should definitely hold up much better on my roads. My old 4WD link system was finished in just under 8 years! That was without any off-roading what so ever.

 

Anyway, more pics will be here soon when the torrential downpour of rain stops.

Edited by Tungsten
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You should List the Moog Part Numbers on here so that people have an easier time looking for what you used.

 

I'm guessing these were them but clarify if I'm wrong.

 

2WD Inner Tie Rod - MOOG - ES2998RL

 

4WD Inner Tie Rod - MOOG - ES3376

 

4WD adjuster - MOOG - ES2900S

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You can really use whatever you like but I am happy with the MOOG parts I got. Everything else is the same but for some reason for 1991, MOOG has a slightly different tie rod listed for 4WD. So the parts that I got were as follows:

 

2WD Inner Tie Rod - MOOG - ES2998RL (need 2)

 

4WD Inner Tie Rod - MOOG - ES3051L (need 2)

 

4WD adjuster - MOOG - ES2900S (need 2)

 

2WD center link - MOOG - DS1061

 

Some other info: The idler arm is an ACDELCO 45C1086 and I also used a steering enhancement package from 4x4parts. The steering box was from a 95 hardbody, the power steering reservoir was from a 93 hardbody, and the power steering lines were for a 95 pathfinder. I did not change the pump as that still looked fine to me and I remember replacing that about 4 or 5 years ago and did not want to risk getting a junk reman. The filter I used on the return steering line is a Raybestos Magnefine in 3/8".

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Um I used the

 

2WD Inner Tie Rod

4WD OUTER Tie Rod

4WD Adjustment Sleeve

2WD Center Link

 

You used a 4WD Inner tie rod instead of an outer tie rod? Or was this a mis-type? The adjustment sleeve gets the right-handed inner tie rod side threads bored out for new 18mm right-handed threads. The stock pathfinder outer tie rod is then used which has the left handed threads on the outer side of the adjustment sleeve...

Edited by Nefarious
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Um I used the

 

2WD Inner Tie Rod

4WD OUTER Tie Rod

4WD Adjustment Sleeve

2WD Center Link

 

You used a 4WD Inner tie rod instead of an outer tie rod? Or was this a mis-type? The adjustment sleeve gets the right-handed inner tie rod side threads bored out for new 18mm right-handed threads. The stock pathfinder outer tie rod is then used which has the left handed threads on the outer side of the adjustment sleeve...

 

 

Page 1, Post #6, Pictures 4 and 5.

 

They are 2mm thicker than the 4WD tie rod ends so the adjusting sleeves will need to be bored out half-way and re-tapped. Eventually the adjuster should bring the tie rod ends closer together or further apart for toe alignment purposes. For this to happen properly, you need to use 2 inner 4WD tie rod ends coupled with 2 inner 2WD tie rod ends.

 

428621_10150615553464075_612879074_9155396_869440574_n.jpg

 

Inner 2WD tie rods will not couple with outer 4WD tie rods. The top combination (inner to inner) works, the bottom (inner to outer) one does not. The side with the tick marks is left hand thread and should be on the 4WD tie rod.

Edited by Dowser
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I did this conversion 4-5 weeks ago after reading it on here. Also did the steering box conversion at the same time.

Wow an awesome thing, the truck feels so nice and stable now. Bump steer ? whats that its all gone

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well that is strange. I must have had mine in reverse or something, as I left my outers(inners i guess haha) attached to the spindle and just threaded on the machined adjustment sleeve. My left handed threads were already pointed to the outside of the truck. Guess subconciously I was already getting ready for this swap, hahaha! and yeah. Bumpsteer is gone now hey? mine too...like...completely gone now that it is aligned!

Edited by Nefarious
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I have a nice shiney new 2wd centrelink sitting here now, I just hope the ball joint tapers are correct for my Pitman and Idler arms.

 

Now to source the inner and outer tie rods and adjusters and I am sorted.

 

http://www.ebay.com/...5ec8b7b&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/...c1a1b9a&vxp=mtr

 

Not moog, are these any good?

 

http://www.ebay.com/...0e9a0e6&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/...77bcba&vxp=mtr.

 

adjuster;

http://www.ebay.com/...602ce3f&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/...f1a11f3&vxp=mtr

 

and inner adjusters (4wd)

http://www.ebay.com/...5acf397&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/...c19e25e&vxp=mtr

 

All these guys ship to NZ.

 

You can also get these local (not sure about the adjuster sleeves), BnT / Autolign 's 555 brand are ok (japanese made)

 

I'm interested in the 4wd ability/durability of this setup, has anyone been out and tried to bust 'em yet?

Edited by andrewt6447
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http://www.ebay.com/...5ec8b7b&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/...c1a1b9a&vxp=mtr

 

Not moog, are these any good?

 

http://www.ebay.com/...0e9a0e6&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/...77bcba&vxp=mtr.

 

adjuster;

http://www.ebay.com/...602ce3f&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/...f1a11f3&vxp=mtr

 

and inner adjusters (4wd)

http://www.ebay.com/...5acf397&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/...c19e25e&vxp=mtr

 

All these guys ship to NZ.

 

You can also get these local (not sure about the adjuster sleeves), BnT / Autolign 's 555 brand are ok (japanese made)

 

I'm interested in the 4wd ability/durability of this setup, has anyone been out and tried to bust 'em yet?

 

Thanks for that, I have seen most on Ebay while trawling, it is just the freight that is putting me off at this stage; that's the killer buying parts from the USA. :aok: I have some other options up my sleeve too.

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It holds up really well on my one. I was screaming through scrub a few days ago and hit a few logs. The steering is still fine. The gearbox died it didnt like the load

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Thanks for that, I have seen most on Ebay while trawling, it is just the freight that is putting me off at this stage; that's the killer buying parts from the USA. :aok: I have some other options up my sleeve too.

If ya get 'em all from one place it won't be as bad....

I'll checkout the one's from Bnt, but you'll have to source the sleeves from somewhere.....

 

 

edit: Been and had a looksee, they are exact replicas of the originals, not h/d ones...bugga. Though I guess they'd still do the trick...

Edited by andrewt6447
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  • 2 weeks later...

I did this conversion 4-5 weeks ago after reading it on here. Also did the steering box conversion at the same time.

Wow an awesome thing, the truck feels so nice and stable now. Bump steer ? whats that its all gone

 

well that is strange. I must have had mine in reverse or something, as I left my outers(inners i guess haha) attached to the spindle and just threaded on the machined adjustment sleeve. My left handed threads were already pointed to the outside of the truck. Guess subconciously I was already getting ready for this swap, hahaha! and yeah. Bumpsteer is gone now hey? mine too...like...completely gone now that it is aligned!

 

Yep! My bump steer is no longer there. The steering wheel does not move anywhere flying over rough roads.

 

Pics tomorrow!

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Got some photos and discovered an interesting problem. The taper of the pitman arm seems to not work properly. The joint of the center link just spins around in the pitman arm taper hole yet the idler arm side works as it should. The boot on the pitman arm seems to have exploded and gone missing too. :wacko:

 

522287_10150841429059075_612879074_9682446_769763588_n.jpg

 

292567_10150841431809075_612879074_9682463_902938606_n.jpg

 

398866_10150841429459075_612879074_9682450_492079090_n.jpg

 

556943_10150841430319075_612879074_9682455_845596837_n.jpg

 

562273_10150841430084075_612879074_9682454_2054312722_n.jpg

 

543271_10150841428864075_612879074_9682445_144343891_n.jpg

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Got some photos and discovered an interesting problem. The taper of the pitman arm seems to not work properly. The joint of the center link just spins around in the pitman arm taper hole yet the idler arm side works as it should. The boot on the pitman arm seems to have exploded and gone missing too. :wacko:

It'll be because of the later model steering box. The 93 on one's have a larger taper on the pitman, and a matching one on the centerlink, that's why there are 2 part no's for the pathy's. Maybe you can use the pitman off your earlier box? I've never compared the 2 side by side...

Just a bit of extra advice, you really need to make or have made a bit better damper to chassis mount, that straight one you have will bend the first time you put a big load through it. Make it a bit shorter too, the damper should ideally be parallell to the centerlink. I'm guessing you don't have a welder? You could make a sorta y shaped bracket in 2 peices to go around to the other side of the chassis as well and pick up on the same bolt and the damper pin, that'd be much better.

Edited by andrewt6447
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My 93 had a smaller taper pitman cause when I had the original in the center link fit fine. Now that I swapped in a 95 steering box it was too big. Looks like swapping pitman ARM is the easiest option.. or get a 95 center link but that costs more and the pitman arms are there...BTW. any way to swap pitman arms while its in the truck? I have a pitman ARM puller but how do you get it back on ?

Edited by Nefarious
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BTW. any way to swap pitman arms while its in the truck? I have a pitman ARM puller but how do you get it back on ?

If you can get the old one off (it sometimes takes heat and a LARGE hammer too) the new one will go on just fine. They have a slight taper which is why they are such a bear to get off. Just tap it into place then tighten the @!*%e outta the nut. It'll go.

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i've got mapp gas, a large hammer, and a pitman arm puller. that should be a winning combination. good to know it has a taper so it can just go back on easily.. okay this is seeming totally do-able and a short job really. I'll take some measurements of taper diameters next time i can... i guess i should find the 2wd old and new taper dias and the 4x4 pitman arm old and new taper dias and then line them up. we should make a definitive guide on exactly which parts from which years have to be combined. would help a lot in the future.

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It'll be because of the later model steering box. The 93 on one's have a larger taper on the pitman, and a matching one on the centerlink, that's why there are 2 part no's for the pathy's. Maybe you can use the pitman off your earlier box? I've never compared the 2 side by side...

Just a bit of extra advice, you really need to make or have made a bit better damper to chassis mount, that straight one you have will bend the first time you put a big load through it. Make it a bit shorter too, the damper should ideally be parallell to the centerlink. I'm guessing you don't have a welder? You could make a sorta y shaped bracket in 2 peices to go around to the other side of the chassis as well and pick up on the same bolt and the damper pin, that'd be much better.

 

Yeah upon a closer observation it seems that later year 4WD trucks use larger tapered holes. Swapping the pitman arm over from my 1991 box should resolve this issue. I'm pretty sure that the amount of splines are the same on both the 91 and 95 pitman arms for the box.

 

My 93 had a smaller taper pitman cause when I had the original in the center link fit fine. Now that I swapped in a 95 steering box it was too big. Looks like swapping pitman ARM is the easiest option.. or get a 95 center link but that costs more and the pitman arms are there...BTW. any way to swap pitman arms while its in the truck? I have a pitman ARM puller but how do you get it back on ?

 

The 2WD center link (for all years, mine was a 1997) will apparently only match up to older taper style holes. You will need earlier 4WD pitman and idler arms. The newer 4WD arms have taper holes that are too big. My idler arm was for 1991 so it works flawlessly with the 2WD link. I am going to verify this by swapping my pitman arm from the older 1991 box over to my new 1995 box. Also, the inner 4WD tie rods that go on the outside here will probably depend on the year as well. I'm pretty sure the knuckles have slightly different tapers.

Edited by Tungsten
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Yeah upon a closer observation it seems that later year 4WD trucks use larger tapered holes. Swapping the pitman arm over from my 1991 box should resolve this issue. I'm pretty sure that the amount of splines are the same on both the 91 and 95 pitman arms for the box.

 

I think you will find the diameter of the spline holes are of a different size from the 91 to 95.

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I'm not sure what they did, but they could have changed the spline count when they changed the steering boxes in these rigs so you may want to confirm they are still the same.

 

I'm with Kiwi. I think there's something different then just the taper.

Edited by Dowser
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