Nefarious Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Mine is still running great, mind you not quite as beefy as tungstens but i just need something to hold out until after tech school so i can sas it! and yeah i am pretty impressed with it too. i have no idea why they used the 4x4 system for steering...night and day difference when lifted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 (edited) There must be a reason why Nissan switched to rack and pinion on the second generation Pathfinder. Something tells me that they already knew about this problem but didn't think it would be a major concern. Not sure why they carried over the awkward design to the Xterra though. The 4WD link design only works properly if the tie rods sit parallel to the center link. To get that, the torsion bars have to be cranked down to their lowest limit and that makes for almost no travel room to the lower bump stops on the lower arms. If you crank it down that low, which is how I had it, you will be hitting the bump stops every time you go over a bump, which makes the ride quality as bad as an old Jeep CJ5. You could shave down the lower bump stops but why make the truck a low rider? The 2WD link with its longer inner tie rods allows for a better angle. At stock height the links are still more straight looking compared to the 4WD link design. The new 2WD system should definitely hold up much better on my roads. My old 4WD link system was finished in just under 8 years! That was without any off-roading what so ever. Anyway, more pics will be here soon when the torrential downpour of rain stops. Edited May 4, 2012 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 You should List the Moog Part Numbers on here so that people have an easier time looking for what you used. I'm guessing these were them but clarify if I'm wrong. 2WD Inner Tie Rod - MOOG - ES2998RL 4WD Inner Tie Rod - MOOG - ES3376 4WD adjuster - MOOG - ES2900S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 You can really use whatever you like but I am happy with the MOOG parts I got. Everything else is the same but for some reason for 1991, MOOG has a slightly different tie rod listed for 4WD. So the parts that I got were as follows: 2WD Inner Tie Rod - MOOG - ES2998RL (need 2) 4WD Inner Tie Rod - MOOG - ES3051L (need 2) 4WD adjuster - MOOG - ES2900S (need 2) 2WD center link - MOOG - DS1061 Some other info: The idler arm is an ACDELCO 45C1086 and I also used a steering enhancement package from 4x4parts. The steering box was from a 95 hardbody, the power steering reservoir was from a 93 hardbody, and the power steering lines were for a 95 pathfinder. I did not change the pump as that still looked fine to me and I remember replacing that about 4 or 5 years ago and did not want to risk getting a junk reman. The filter I used on the return steering line is a Raybestos Magnefine in 3/8". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 (edited) Um I used the 2WD Inner Tie Rod 4WD OUTER Tie Rod 4WD Adjustment Sleeve 2WD Center Link You used a 4WD Inner tie rod instead of an outer tie rod? Or was this a mis-type? The adjustment sleeve gets the right-handed inner tie rod side threads bored out for new 18mm right-handed threads. The stock pathfinder outer tie rod is then used which has the left handed threads on the outer side of the adjustment sleeve... Edited May 7, 2012 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 (edited) Um I used the 2WD Inner Tie Rod 4WD OUTER Tie Rod 4WD Adjustment Sleeve 2WD Center Link You used a 4WD Inner tie rod instead of an outer tie rod? Or was this a mis-type? The adjustment sleeve gets the right-handed inner tie rod side threads bored out for new 18mm right-handed threads. The stock pathfinder outer tie rod is then used which has the left handed threads on the outer side of the adjustment sleeve... Page 1, Post #6, Pictures 4 and 5. They are 2mm thicker than the 4WD tie rod ends so the adjusting sleeves will need to be bored out half-way and re-tapped. Eventually the adjuster should bring the tie rod ends closer together or further apart for toe alignment purposes. For this to happen properly, you need to use 2 inner 4WD tie rod ends coupled with 2 inner 2WD tie rod ends. Inner 2WD tie rods will not couple with outer 4WD tie rods. The top combination (inner to inner) works, the bottom (inner to outer) one does not. The side with the tick marks is left hand thread and should be on the 4WD tie rod. Edited May 8, 2012 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wax Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 I did this conversion 4-5 weeks ago after reading it on here. Also did the steering box conversion at the same time. Wow an awesome thing, the truck feels so nice and stable now. Bump steer ? whats that its all gone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 (edited) well that is strange. I must have had mine in reverse or something, as I left my outers(inners i guess haha) attached to the spindle and just threaded on the machined adjustment sleeve. My left handed threads were already pointed to the outside of the truck. Guess subconciously I was already getting ready for this swap, hahaha! and yeah. Bumpsteer is gone now hey? mine too...like...completely gone now that it is aligned! Edited May 8, 2012 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewt6447 Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 (edited) I have a nice shiney new 2wd centrelink sitting here now, I just hope the ball joint tapers are correct for my Pitman and Idler arms. Now to source the inner and outer tie rods and adjusters and I am sorted. http://www.ebay.com/...5ec8b7b&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...c1a1b9a&vxp=mtr Not moog, are these any good? http://www.ebay.com/...0e9a0e6&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...77bcba&vxp=mtr. adjuster; http://www.ebay.com/...602ce3f&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...f1a11f3&vxp=mtr and inner adjusters (4wd) http://www.ebay.com/...5acf397&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...c19e25e&vxp=mtr All these guys ship to NZ. You can also get these local (not sure about the adjuster sleeves), BnT / Autolign 's 555 brand are ok (japanese made) I'm interested in the 4wd ability/durability of this setup, has anyone been out and tried to bust 'em yet? Edited May 9, 2012 by andrewt6447 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 http://www.ebay.com/...5ec8b7b&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...c1a1b9a&vxp=mtr Not moog, are these any good? http://www.ebay.com/...0e9a0e6&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...77bcba&vxp=mtr. adjuster; http://www.ebay.com/...602ce3f&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...f1a11f3&vxp=mtr and inner adjusters (4wd) http://www.ebay.com/...5acf397&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/...c19e25e&vxp=mtr All these guys ship to NZ. You can also get these local (not sure about the adjuster sleeves), BnT / Autolign 's 555 brand are ok (japanese made) I'm interested in the 4wd ability/durability of this setup, has anyone been out and tried to bust 'em yet? Thanks for that, I have seen most on Ebay while trawling, it is just the freight that is putting me off at this stage; that's the killer buying parts from the USA. I have some other options up my sleeve too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 I'm going to be testing out the 2wd steering setup this weekend on the trails I will keep informed how it holds up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wax Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 It holds up really well on my one. I was screaming through scrub a few days ago and hit a few logs. The steering is still fine. The gearbox died it didnt like the load Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewt6447 Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 (edited) Thanks for that, I have seen most on Ebay while trawling, it is just the freight that is putting me off at this stage; that's the killer buying parts from the USA. I have some other options up my sleeve too. If ya get 'em all from one place it won't be as bad.... I'll checkout the one's from Bnt, but you'll have to source the sleeves from somewhere..... edit: Been and had a looksee, they are exact replicas of the originals, not h/d ones...bugga. Though I guess they'd still do the trick... Edited May 10, 2012 by andrewt6447 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 I did this conversion 4-5 weeks ago after reading it on here. Also did the steering box conversion at the same time. Wow an awesome thing, the truck feels so nice and stable now. Bump steer ? whats that its all gone well that is strange. I must have had mine in reverse or something, as I left my outers(inners i guess haha) attached to the spindle and just threaded on the machined adjustment sleeve. My left handed threads were already pointed to the outside of the truck. Guess subconciously I was already getting ready for this swap, hahaha! and yeah. Bumpsteer is gone now hey? mine too...like...completely gone now that it is aligned! Yep! My bump steer is no longer there. The steering wheel does not move anywhere flying over rough roads. Pics tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 Got some photos and discovered an interesting problem. The taper of the pitman arm seems to not work properly. The joint of the center link just spins around in the pitman arm taper hole yet the idler arm side works as it should. The boot on the pitman arm seems to have exploded and gone missing too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 (edited) Some pics of the stabilizer now... Then the filter... Edited May 19, 2012 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewt6447 Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 (edited) Got some photos and discovered an interesting problem. The taper of the pitman arm seems to not work properly. The joint of the center link just spins around in the pitman arm taper hole yet the idler arm side works as it should. The boot on the pitman arm seems to have exploded and gone missing too. It'll be because of the later model steering box. The 93 on one's have a larger taper on the pitman, and a matching one on the centerlink, that's why there are 2 part no's for the pathy's. Maybe you can use the pitman off your earlier box? I've never compared the 2 side by side... Just a bit of extra advice, you really need to make or have made a bit better damper to chassis mount, that straight one you have will bend the first time you put a big load through it. Make it a bit shorter too, the damper should ideally be parallell to the centerlink. I'm guessing you don't have a welder? You could make a sorta y shaped bracket in 2 peices to go around to the other side of the chassis as well and pick up on the same bolt and the damper pin, that'd be much better. Edited May 19, 2012 by andrewt6447 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 (edited) My 93 had a smaller taper pitman cause when I had the original in the center link fit fine. Now that I swapped in a 95 steering box it was too big. Looks like swapping pitman ARM is the easiest option.. or get a 95 center link but that costs more and the pitman arms are there...BTW. any way to swap pitman arms while its in the truck? I have a pitman ARM puller but how do you get it back on ? Edited May 19, 2012 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewt6447 Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 BTW. any way to swap pitman arms while its in the truck? I have a pitman ARM puller but how do you get it back on ? If you can get the old one off (it sometimes takes heat and a LARGE hammer too) the new one will go on just fine. They have a slight taper which is why they are such a bear to get off. Just tap it into place then tighten the @!*%e outta the nut. It'll go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 i've got mapp gas, a large hammer, and a pitman arm puller. that should be a winning combination. good to know it has a taper so it can just go back on easily.. okay this is seeming totally do-able and a short job really. I'll take some measurements of taper diameters next time i can... i guess i should find the 2wd old and new taper dias and the 4x4 pitman arm old and new taper dias and then line them up. we should make a definitive guide on exactly which parts from which years have to be combined. would help a lot in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 (edited) It'll be because of the later model steering box. The 93 on one's have a larger taper on the pitman, and a matching one on the centerlink, that's why there are 2 part no's for the pathy's. Maybe you can use the pitman off your earlier box? I've never compared the 2 side by side... Just a bit of extra advice, you really need to make or have made a bit better damper to chassis mount, that straight one you have will bend the first time you put a big load through it. Make it a bit shorter too, the damper should ideally be parallell to the centerlink. I'm guessing you don't have a welder? You could make a sorta y shaped bracket in 2 peices to go around to the other side of the chassis as well and pick up on the same bolt and the damper pin, that'd be much better. Yeah upon a closer observation it seems that later year 4WD trucks use larger tapered holes. Swapping the pitman arm over from my 1991 box should resolve this issue. I'm pretty sure that the amount of splines are the same on both the 91 and 95 pitman arms for the box. My 93 had a smaller taper pitman cause when I had the original in the center link fit fine. Now that I swapped in a 95 steering box it was too big. Looks like swapping pitman ARM is the easiest option.. or get a 95 center link but that costs more and the pitman arms are there...BTW. any way to swap pitman arms while its in the truck? I have a pitman ARM puller but how do you get it back on ? The 2WD center link (for all years, mine was a 1997) will apparently only match up to older taper style holes. You will need earlier 4WD pitman and idler arms. The newer 4WD arms have taper holes that are too big. My idler arm was for 1991 so it works flawlessly with the 2WD link. I am going to verify this by swapping my pitman arm from the older 1991 box over to my new 1995 box. Also, the inner 4WD tie rods that go on the outside here will probably depend on the year as well. I'm pretty sure the knuckles have slightly different tapers. Edited May 19, 2012 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwipete Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 Yeah upon a closer observation it seems that later year 4WD trucks use larger tapered holes. Swapping the pitman arm over from my 1991 box should resolve this issue. I'm pretty sure that the amount of splines are the same on both the 91 and 95 pitman arms for the box. I think you will find the diameter of the spline holes are of a different size from the 91 to 95. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 (edited) I'm not sure what they did, but they could have changed the spline count when they changed the steering boxes in these rigs so you may want to confirm they are still the same. I'm with Kiwi. I think there's something different then just the taper. Edited May 19, 2012 by Dowser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wax Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 Ok well here are some pics of my setup. I used the power steering box on my one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wax Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 And some more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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