95champagnepath Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 (edited) Been having the "click" problem with the starter for a couple years. Assumed is was the starter, and replaced it. Went to start it and "click," wouldn't turn over. Autozone didn't test the re-man starter when I bought so I assumed it was bad. Traded the old one in for another one and had them test it and it worked fine. Installed the new starter and now nothing.. won't even click. Been researching for a couple days now and haven't found much that will help. I've come across techniques such as bypassing the alarm system under the steering column, replacing the solenoid, replacing battery, and relay mods. After dropping in the "working" starter, I assume the problem lies with the cables? My Pathfinder is an Automatic, so I had a hard time finding the starter and inhibitor relays.. If they even exist. Found a lot on Pathfinders and Hardbodys, but with manuals dealing with a CSS as the problem. http://info.rockauto.com/BeckArnley/BA-TBS0113.pdf Bypassing the alarm system appears to be a common solution, but did not work for me. Battery tested good, and is less than a year old. Cables have been cleaned and look like they're in decent condition. Could the starter still be bad? Or does the problem lie with the positive battery cable or other relays? Some sort of mysterious interlock? There is only one cable going to the starter, one wire to the oil pressure sender, and one plug to the solenoid correct? Any insight is much appreciated as the path has been down now for three days and have to work tomorrow morning. Thanks, David Edited March 7, 2012 by 95champagnepath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaggy Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 You probably did this, but even so it's worth double checking: remove, clean (scrape until the metal is bright), and re-tighten the battery terminals. Assuming a good battery, this has been IME the no.1 cause of clicking solenoid. If that doesn't work, tap the solenoid hard with the handle of a big screwdriver, and try again. Good luck! Shaggy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95champagnepath Posted March 7, 2012 Author Share Posted March 7, 2012 Yeah cleaned the posts. Would hammering on the starter work even if its not clicking? Doesn't seem like the solenoid is getting charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted March 7, 2012 Share Posted March 7, 2012 (edited) You can test for voltage at the solenoid with a voltmeter, or a bit of wire and a tail light bulb. I doubt it needs banging on if it worked on the bench, but my understanding is that you only bang on it if it's not clicking... means the solenoid's stuck. If it clicks but doesn't crank, the solenoid's firing but it's not making the connection for the starter (or there's not enough power to run the motor). I guess it couldn't hurt to try, but I suspect the problem is a bad connection. If it is getting charge, but not enough (significant drop from the battery), you could try adding a relay to the circuit (so the low current triggers the relay, powering the starter right from the battery). If there's no charge... bad wire? Ignition cylinder? When the starter in my 95 failed, and my uncle put a new one in, it refused to crank the first time I tried the key. The second time, it fired right up. We put it down to greasy connections. Edited March 7, 2012 by Slartibartfast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95champagnepath Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) Wish I had a voltmeter or piece of wire. The first one clicked at first, but after I unplugged it to check the cable, and plugged it back in I get nothing. I think it's a charge issue. All other electronics are on, but just seems as though the battery isn't sending any charge to the starter. Resulting in the dead response when turning the key. Could a bad cable still allow everything else to work? The cable appeared to be in good enough condition, but don't have anything to test it with. Anyone done the relay mod? Edited March 8, 2012 by 95champagnepath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95champagnepath Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Anyone have a pictured step by step walk-through to this mod? http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=315995&an=0&page=0 Little confused on where and what wires and relay he was using. As well as what the finished project looks like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 TRY Nissan4wheelers.com I remember reading about it there but I can't remember anything else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95champagnepath Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 (edited) Found the problem.. Forgot to plug in a plug underneath the battery.. I think the ignition switch.. which would explain why there was no charge going to the solenoid Sometimes I guess you can just over-think the little things haha. All input was greatly appreciated. Fired right up. Running like a champ. Installed a Mean Green 180amp Alternator as well. Anyone have issues with the belt size? Edited March 8, 2012 by 95champagnepath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathybuilder Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Installed a Mean Green 180amp Alternator as well. Anyone have issues with the belt size? I installed mine with no problems. The Pulley is slightly smaller than OEM so the Alternator was at max adjustment just to keep tension on the belt. Mine failed about 13 months into service. Mean Green replaced it no questions asked (only 12 month warranty) I was blown away. I haven't re-installed it but when I do I'll use a slightly shorter belt to allow more adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 LOL, sounds like something I'd do. Glad you got her working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95champagnepath Posted March 8, 2012 Author Share Posted March 8, 2012 Yeah. Just wasn't able to achieve proper tension with the original belt. So I used the power steering belt size and It seems pretty tigbt. The A/C belt ended up rubbing on the pulley. Unfortunately didn't find that out until everything was put back together. So had decided to cut it. Not too hot yet Haha Is it possible to get a belt that's in-between the size of the alternator belt and the power steering pump belt? Or could you just switch pulleys and use the original belt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathybuilder Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Yeah. Just wasn't able to achieve proper tension with the original belt. So I used the power steering belt size and It seems pretty tigbt. The A/C belt ended up rubbing on the pulley. Unfortunately didn't find that out until everything was put back together. So had decided to cut it. Not too hot yet Haha Is it possible to get a belt that's in-between the size of the alternator belt and the power steering pump belt? Or could you just switch pulleys and use the original belt? That was what I wanted to do as well,use a power steering belt. Guess that's out of the question. I would imagine theres a belt in between the two, I'm not sure. I would be hesitant to change the pulley. I understand guys will sometimes run a smaller pulley to make the alternator turn faster and get more output., but I wonder what effect that would have on the unit itself. I guess it would be the same as running at a higher RPM, maybe it's just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted March 8, 2012 Share Posted March 8, 2012 Just to add information. The stock Pathfinder alarm does not disable the starter. So bypassing it was in vain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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