95champagnepath

So I'm assuming by tree you mean the bracket holding the 5 or so connectors right next to the fuel pump? If so, the only three wire connector is the middle connector of the three connectors closest to the fender correct? Red, grey (white?), and black wire. If that's it, I'll have to cut it out of the protective sleeve and route the new sensor wire all the way back down and through then right?

1995 Pathfinder XE Auto So got my first CEL, ran the code and determined it is the oxygen sensor. Ordered an OEM replacement off of oxygensensors.com and decided I would replace it this upcoming Monday or Tuesday. Found the Sensor easy enough just ahead of the Catalytic Converter, and traced the sensor wire for the plug and found that it goes up and over the tranny. Could not seem to be able to get my hands up in there to get a hold of the connector itself. It gets a little tight up there. Used the search and hounded the "how to" section and could not find any write ups on replacing the o2 sensor. My question is, anyone got a trick for getting to the actual o2 sensor connector? Is there a way when I install the replacement sensor to relocate the connector itself so its not in such a tight location next time? All the help is much appreciated! I already know I'm going to have a blast getting the old rusty sensor out . Liquid Wrench is gonna come in handy.

Mr. Reverse, that post is very much apprecitated. Now that it is cooling down, the starter is not acting up nearly as much. I assumed that there must have been an issue within the circuit itself. Just for some reason the battery was not providing enough voltage to the starter. I have not checked my voltage going to the starter, as I do not have a volt meter. Pretty crazy how long that circuit for the starter is, I have not taken the time to completly track it. I will definitely look into installing that relay. It is a cheapo Autozone rebuild, but I believe the problem is deeper than the starter itself. I assume mine is having the same problem that you found in yours. My headlights are a little dim as well, unfortionately they are airmed a bit high, and when I installed some 31" tires over the XE stock 235/75's, they almost do not make contact with the road. The headlight screws are stripped as I soon found out, which sucks.

It is an 95 Auto. Yes, I reviewed the FSM. Under the EL section pages 75-77, it show the locations of the different relays. Checking those out, there is no listed Starter Relay. I have heard it mentioned several times, but cannot locate it. As you have said, "it could be the Starter Relay," would you mind posting a pic of where yours is located? It would be much appreciated. Just trying to look at everything before replacing the starter again. Four Starters in two years is a bit excessive. Battery is less that a couple months old, New alternator, Connections are good, Grounds are good. Only thing I have not looked into are the relays.

All, My 1995 Pathfinder XE Automatic has been having the intermittent starting issues for quite some time. I have replaced the battery, alternator, and starter a few times. It will click, but will not turn the motor unless you turn the key several times quickly until it catches. Sometimes it will start on the first turn without issue. I've checked out the battery cable and it looks fine. All connections and grounds looked good. After searching, I found that the Inhibitor and Starter relays may be the issue. I am able to locate the inhibitor relay, but not the starter relay. Just wondering if someone could post some pictures of the starter relay? Also heard that there is an ignition switch under the steering column. A picture of that switch would be much appreciated as well! Thought I read a while ago that some models did not have the starter relay. Just wanted to make sure I'm not chasing a ghost. Thanks for the help!!

Yo Eric, I can speak from experience with those hills. Mine being an auto, would have to drop into 2nd around 3-4k rpm or so to make it up the lookout dr. hill. Power was not as boggy as yours seems to be. Just recently did a trip from Phoenix up to the flagstaff area, pretty much climbing the mountains all the way up there. Would have to downshift frequently to hold 70-80mph around 4k rpm. I have done plugs and wires, and have your same intake and it Handled it like champ. Check the O2 sensor, could be the issue. Clean the MAF. Compression check would be a good thing to do just to see what's going on in there. Should put those on my todo list...

Had the same issue when my started began going out. Swapped in three different starters, two of which were bad from the get-go. Try another and see if that works (assuming they are the remans from autozone or something). If there is charge going to the starter, and the battery tested good, then I wouldn't troubleshoot that much more. After all was said and done, my issue with the third starter not turning over, was that somehow the starter was unplugged from the battery . I do recall a post on another nissan forum about the security system interfering with the vehicle starting. Apparently when the interior temp exceeds 110F, the relays expand causing issues with the ignition process. The relays are located underneath the steering wheel. Apparently you swap the relays and problem solved. Was not my issue, but just a thought.

So there is power going to the starter then? I know on mine, I missed a plug that rests right under or beside the battery. Somehow got unplugged when switching the starters in and out. Turned the key and nothing. Plugged it in and it fired right up. If not that, i would say possibly a bad selonoid.

Just a tad less shiny then mine Haha. I think the shine has to do with our beige pearl paint. Nice looking rig! Let's see that engine bay! Haha

Anyone happen to know the backspacing on the spare tire steelies? Picked up a set of four to match the spare, picked up a set of Duratracs (nice pick by the way honeybadger ) and I believe I'm suffering from the same rubbing symptom. Usually occurs when turning all the way to lock, such as when performing a U-turn. Just curious if those wheels have a different backspacing.

Yeah. Just wasn't able to achieve proper tension with the original belt. So I used the power steering belt size and It seems pretty tigbt. The A/C belt ended up rubbing on the pulley. Unfortunately didn't find that out until everything was put back together. So had decided to cut it. Not too hot yet Haha Is it possible to get a belt that's in-between the size of the alternator belt and the power steering pump belt? Or could you just switch pulleys and use the original belt?

Found the problem.. Forgot to plug in a plug underneath the battery.. I think the ignition switch.. which would explain why there was no charge going to the solenoid Sometimes I guess you can just over-think the little things haha. All input was greatly appreciated. Fired right up. Running like a champ. Installed a Mean Green 180amp Alternator as well. Anyone have issues with the belt size?

Anyone have a pictured step by step walk-through to this mod? http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=315995&an=0&page=0 Little confused on where and what wires and relay he was using. As well as what the finished project looks like.

Wish I had a voltmeter or piece of wire. The first one clicked at first, but after I unplugged it to check the cable, and plugged it back in I get nothing. I think it's a charge issue. All other electronics are on, but just seems as though the battery isn't sending any charge to the starter. Resulting in the dead response when turning the key. Could a bad cable still allow everything else to work? The cable appeared to be in good enough condition, but don't have anything to test it with. Anyone done the relay mod?

Yeah cleaned the posts. Would hammering on the starter work even if its not clicking? Doesn't seem like the solenoid is getting charge.

Been having the "click" problem with the starter for a couple years. Assumed is was the starter, and replaced it. Went to start it and "click," wouldn't turn over. Autozone didn't test the re-man starter when I bought so I assumed it was bad. Traded the old one in for another one and had them test it and it worked fine. Installed the new starter and now nothing.. won't even click. Been researching for a couple days now and haven't found much that will help. I've come across techniques such as bypassing the alarm system under the steering column, replacing the solenoid, replacing battery, and relay mods. After dropping in the "working" starter, I assume the problem lies with the cables? My Pathfinder is an Automatic, so I had a hard time finding the starter and inhibitor relays.. If they even exist. Found a lot on Pathfinders and Hardbodys, but with manuals dealing with a CSS as the problem. http://info.rockauto.com/BeckArnley/BA-TBS0113.pdf Bypassing the alarm system appears to be a common solution, but did not work for me. Battery tested good, and is less than a year old. Cables have been cleaned and look like they're in decent condition. Could the starter still be bad? Or does the problem lie with the positive battery cable or other relays? Some sort of mysterious interlock? There is only one cable going to the starter, one wire to the oil pressure sender, and one plug to the solenoid correct? Any insight is much appreciated as the path has been down now for three days and have to work tomorrow morning. Thanks, David

Hey one of the eight/nine, Over in Chandler. Just revamping the path. Doing a little work. Will try to get some updated pics uploaded. Would like to put the new tires to use. Just don't have much free time for wheeling.. planning for the wedding and all Haha. Would definitely be up for going.

Not sure what turns your mentioning. My starter doesn't turn at all. It has a "heat shield" type piece on it that can't be removed that catches on the frame or something. It is a Nissan OEM starter. Pretty sure it was installed in the factory back in '95. Could it be that it is just too large?

Found that post, but he has a 3" lift and I believe a smaller starter possibly.. Haha. Tried following his steps, but once again, to no avail. Just would not come. I have a large plastic wrapped tube of wires that leads to the starter. Not sure if that is supposed to be disconnected or not. Is kind of in the way.

So I have finally come around to replacing starter in my Path. The previous turns over fairly well, but when the outside temp reaches 95+ degrees, it just clicks with no ignition. After a few tries it will finally turn over. I have followed all the steps in the Chiltons Manual, but have been unsuccessful in taking the old starter out. I searched but did not find anyone that posted a trick to removing it. I've tried pulling it towards the front, but it's still wedged. Tried pulling it up, but to no avail. Tried pulling it out from the bottom, but still a no go. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks, David

Should I have it running? Or will the air just "burp" out?

haha so it should be fine to turn that screw when it's warmed up then?

In order to open the air relief plug, the radiator cap has to be off?

Probably would be a good idea to let it cool before burping it. Or can I go ahead and try now, just got back from work, pulled in the garage and it was at half temp and holding. No freeway driving though and it's not as hot out. Only about 105.