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So I made up the back road to crown king. Was a tough ride cause I started having issues on the 3rd obstacle. The truck was spitting a sputtering and had no power at all. After letting it rest I was able to keep going. Ran into this problem a few more times on the way up. I think the trans was over heating.

 

So here is the question. Will the ecu put the. Truck in safe mode if the trans get's to hot. I have an auto trans.

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So I made up the back road to crown king. Was a tough ride cause I started having issues on the 3rd obstacle. The truck was spitting a sputtering and had no power at all. After letting it rest I was able to keep going. Ran into this problem a few more times on the way up. I think the trans was over heating.

 

So here is the question. Will the ecu put the. Truck in safe mode if the trans get's to hot. I have an auto trans.

 

If the TCU detects excessive wheel spin, the trans will be put into a fail safe mode, locks it in to third gear. I have had this happen a few times with my truck.

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That's not what's happening. I have to let it sit and cool off for along time or it will do it again right away. I'm fully loaded with camping gear and I'm sure the trans got to hot. Plus it was making the engine pop and sputter like something was wrong with the ignition or fuel system. If I put it in neutral or park and hit the gas it revs just fine.

 

Does the fail safe mode also effect the ignition system kind of acting like a rev limiter?

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Does the fail safe mode also effect the ignition system kind of acting like a rev limiter?

 

I don't think so. From what I've experienced, I've turned the truck off, and started it. E-AT light blinks for 8 seconds then stays solid (if in power mode), transmission is in fail-safe, locked in 3rd gear. Turn truck off again and wait 30-60 seconds, turn truck on, and it's back to normal.

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I am not familiar with the fail safe operation, not sure if I have ever gotten to that point....

 

However...

 

Are you feeling excessive or more than normal heat from the hump in the floorboard?

 

Do you run the factory transmission cooler, or aftermarket?

 

I was experiencing something similar while pulling a trailer prior to doing a trans cooler and haven't had the issue since.

Edited by tmoore4512
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Hmmm... I am not sure what to make of this then brother. When I installed an aftermarket cooler it cured my issue...

 

I guess it is time for me to go look at the FSM's again... to re educate!!!

 

Trans temp gauge is an excellent idea, Precise1 did one hell of a writeup on that...

 

Let me see if I can find it...

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Ok so here is an update. This morning after sitting all night the truck was fine. The road home is as easy as it gets too. Not one issue until I threw it in 4 low and head up the trail to this mine. Instantly it started doing it again. I put it back in 2 wheel drive and it was fine again. Right then I started to wonder if it had something to do with shifting it in 4 wheel drive rather than an over heating problem. I ended out putting it in 4 low and tried backing up the trail to see if it would do it again and it didn't. Not sure what's going on. Maybe something came loose and is causing the computer to freak out?

 

Through me ideas and I'll check it out.

 

PS: I blew a seal in my steering box. The seal that the steering shaft goes into. Have any of you replaced this before? Thinking about just grabbing a used box out of the JY and then trying to rebuild this one.

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Make sure all the electrical plugs under the hood are plugged in. They are on a black bracket under the hood on the passenger side fender well. Seems odd that the issue only presents itself once you put it in 4LO... Like the transmission can't take the torque almost and is slipping?

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I have had my truck go into limp mode once when a wire grounded out against my newly installed headers (took out 1/2 of the gauge cluster too). I drove it home (back roads for 10 miles), identified the issue, insulated and secured the wire and no issue since. It is odd that yours seems only to happen in 4wd forward though makes me think that it is electrical in nature.

 

I can not recall anyone replacing that seal and the few that have taken the box apart said it was a pain? :shrug:

Go with a JY part if you can, otherwise MY1PATH identified a company in Oregon or Warshington (RedHat or something) that does a good job rebuilding PS boxes.

 

Good luck man, I don't really know where to point you with your primary issue...

 

B

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Hmmm... I am not sure what to make of this then brother. When I installed an aftermarket cooler it cured my issue...

 

I guess it is time for me to go look at the FSM's again... to re educate!!!

 

Trans temp gauge is an excellent idea, Precise1 did one hell of a writeup on that...

 

Let me see if I can find it...

:rofl:

 

The bottom most pinned thread in this section?? :tongue:

 

I know, you are tired...

 

B

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Make sure all the electrical plugs under the hood are plugged in. They are on a black bracket under the hood on the passenger side fender well. Seems odd that the issue only presents itself once you put it in 4LO... Like the transmission can't take the torque almost and is slipping?

 

No slipping at all. It's like the ignition or the fuel is cutting out causing it to bog down. Doesn't stall it just won't rev enough to get the truck up a hill.

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PS: I blew a seal in my steering box. The seal that the steering shaft goes into. Have any of you replaced this before? Thinking about just grabbing a used box out of the JY and then trying to rebuild this one.

 

I have, to my dummy box.... Matter of fact, its about to be posted... It is not as bad as it seems, it is time consuming, but I am confident that if it needed to be done again I could do it quickly having been there and done that.

 

:rofl:

 

The bottom most pinned thread in this section?? :tongue:

 

I know, you are tired...

 

B

 

Yes you are absolutely right... and tired I was!!

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Ok so I can't figure this out. I climbed under it to check the wires and everything looks ok. I pulled my air filter just because and it was full of dirt so I cleaned it (K&N) and the mass air meter too. The problem is still there. I can actually feel it a little in two wheel drive. If I stomp on the gas in 2 wheel drive it hesitates for split second and then takes off as normal. I just put it into 4 low on the pavement and stomped on the gas and it bucked like crazy. Put it into reveres while in 4 low and it took off like nothing was wrong at all. Starting to think the only reason is does it in 4 low so bad when I go forward is because it launches harder than in 2 wheel drive. Thinking it's the forward jolt that is causing the problem. Wondering if something in the fuel pickup may have been shaken loose while wheelin? Just can't understand why it doesn't do it in reverse.

 

Need real ideas please...

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Air filters actually get more efficient as they load up with dirt. If you clean the filter too often, you are letting more dirt past the air filter. See here for more details.

 

Maybe do a pan drop to check the condition of the strainer?

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***Update***

 

Tried launching in 4 high on my way to work this morning and it responds the way it does in 2 wheel drive. I'm really starting to lean toward this being a hard launch problem. Something is going wrong when the truck launches hard while going forward.

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