Strange new engine noise

[JackStraw1]

Today I decided to take my son snow tubing up the road a ways.

It was pretty bad along the highway so i put her in 4H and rolled along with no problems.

 

As we neared the ski resort, the tranmission fluid overheat light and battery(charging system) lights both came on.

The road was majorly snowed in and there was no place to pull over. I put her back in 2H figuring it would lessen the work of the tranny. The engine started making a strange high pitched whine whenever I accelerated above 2000-2500 rpm. I crawled along about 2.5 miles to the resort and pulled into a convenience store. When I got out to check, I could see that the transmission cooler which is front of the radiator was partially iced up. The fluid level was normal and the fluid was pristine color and texture. Alternator belt was slightly slack but not slipping. Oil was down about a quart ! I poured in a quart of oil and figured I'd let the tranny cooler thaw out.

 

So I let it sit for a couple hours while we horsed around and had a great time. When I restarted the trans cooler looked clear and all the dash lights cleared after about a minute and the car drove fine..........except for the high pitched whine which is still there when accelerating.

 

I changed the oil when I got home and re-checked the belts --- all OK.

 

I'm thinking this whine might be the tensioner on the timing belt.

 

Appreciate all thought and comments.

[adamzan]

As we neared the ski resort, the tranmission fluid overheat light and battery(charging system) lights both came on.

 

This is basically the "code" for when your alternator isn't charging. I would tighten up that belt or replace it if it is old/glazed.

[Heloflyboy]

Sorry I don't know what the problem is . I am more jealous that you have snow . I have forgotten what it looked like .

[JackStraw1]

This is basically the "code" for when your alternator isn't charging. I would tighten up that belt or replace it if it is old/glazed.

 

Really? Both lights come on when the system is not charging ? I didn't think of that.

The belt tensioner is maxed out and that's why I'm having trouble keeping tension on the alt belt.That plus the fact that the lower hole is stripped and now has a through bolt with nut on the end. I've been meaning to get the next size down belt and try to stretch that over. Guess I'll try that today.

 

Thanks.

[JackStraw1]

Sorry I don't know what the problem is . I am more jealous that you have snow . I have forgotten what it looked like .

 

Oh it's beautiful today. The storm has passed and the sun is out. Spec-frickin-tacular !!

 

Hope you get some soon.

[Precise1]

Yep, Adam set you straight. You might have failing bearings in the alternator also. Pop the hood and rev the motor by hand with your head in there to see where it is coming from.

 

Sorry I don't know what the problem is . I am more jealous that you have snow . I have forgotten what it looked like .

You should see plenty next week Bud...

 

B

[JackStraw1]

This is basically the "code" for when your alternator isn't charging. I would tighten up that belt or replace it if it is old/glazed.

 

 

Well, I took all the belts off and replaced the alternator belt with the next size down ( a full 1/2 inch shorter belt !)

It took be a little while in the cold to get it to stretch on but I got on it without beating it up. Now the tensioner only opens about halfway and the belt is tight ! Lotsa room to tweak it if the belt stretches out a little over time.

 

I should mention that I am running the maxima 90 amp alternator with the pulley from the stock alty. I don't know if others have had to re-size the alt belt or this is just something strange with my truck.

 

The strange new noise seemed to be coming from the A/C belt and I had a look at the idler pulley - it made a little noise when I spun it. I got one from AZ but it looked like crap compared to the original so I just cleaned the original with parts cleaner and WD-40. I noticed that there is a circlip on the back which I'm guessing allows you to replace the bearing. Has anyone done this? Do you need a bearing press or can this be pounded out with the right size socket?

 

Anyhow, I put it back in for the time being and whadaya know ? No more high pitched whine. Now all I've got is the good ol' familiar high-pitched squeal from the PS pump. I wuz fixin' to replace that in the summer anyways.

 

Thanks for your help

[Precise1]

I have a Maxima alty with the Pathy pully also and I'm fairly certain that it used the same belt as before.

 

The idler arm unbolts easily and the bearing drops out or taps out IIRC. No press or special tools needed so its an easy fix.

 

B

[Slartibartfast]

I actually pulled my idler out just the other day. The bearing looked like it tapped out, but I couldn't get it out with a hammer and a screwdriver, so I left it alone. Maybe try a bench vise with a socket rather than tapping? I pried off the shields, degreased the bearing internals, washed the grit out, shot the last of it out with WD-40 and compressed air, repacked it with grease, put it back together, and put it back on... it was quiet at first, but now it seems to be chirping a little at 2-2.5k RPM. Oh well, it's an improvement at least LOL. But yeah, the circlip comes out pretty easily, I just used pliers and a screwdriver to help ease it out.

 

Last time my dad bought belts for mine, the parts place gave him totally wrong-sized belts. Maybe the PO of yours had a similar experience and made it work.