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Slip Yoke eliminator


Heloflyboy
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Does anyone know where I can get a slip yoke eliminator? Cal Mini no longer carries them. I talked to Tom Woods driveline,he said he could probably make me one but it's going to be expensive.I thought about taking the slip yoke and cutting it in half,then welding a 1310 yoke on it.Then drilling hole in shaft to tread bolt into it to hold yoke in. Not to sure if I could get it perfect,which would cause bad vibration.Crude I know.

Any thought's or suggestions would be appreciated. Waiting for new center force clutch to come in,so have a few day's to figure it out. :headwall:

Thank's

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Y do u need a slip yoke Eliminator on a wd21? Just asking since I've seen a lot of flex and never seen Anyone pull the shaft out of the transfer case...not saying its not possible just haven't seen it

I had the same question. I did a quick google search and a youtube video explained it pretty well.

Apparently, you want to eliminate your slip yoke when you lift your vehicle. The slip yoke is like a little bit if extra length that your driveshaft can extend. For bumps and stuff I guess. When you lift your vehicle, your driveshaft is now at an angle. The transmission is higher than the differential so it has to bend differently AND stretch. 1 or 2 inches of lift is no big deal, but if you do like 4 inches, then you start having problems. The angel would become so severe, that the u-joints would become weak. Also, in this video (referring to older Jeeps YJs I think he said), the driveshafts would extend so much that they would actually slip out of the transmission a tiny bit and in certain gears, it wouldn't go into gear and it would damage the trans.

 

Take a look, it seems to make sense, but they are very expensive.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSi1dITVPB0

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I think I remember Steevo saying that his 4 link setup can retain the stock slip yoke for the rear drive shaft but he did not say the limitations of using it though.

 

Maybe Steevo should put in a small run on SYE for his 4 link kits.

 

As for a SYE, you can do what Nunya mentioned. Shouldn't be difficult with the exception to drilling the rear shaft for a bolt. You'll need to put the slip yoke on a lathe and mill it down square. I'm not sure how much meat the slip yoke has but you might need some metal on there and then just center the hole, transfer a 1310 yoke holes over and drill away.

Edited by Cuong Nguyen
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Yea...we did a 1" body and 3" susp on my buddies wrangler and had to put a double cardan shaft on his to help with drive line vibrations and u-joint life...

 

And yes I believe steve is still running his stock rear shaft...I know before he did his new 4link it was still the stock shaft BC we had discussions on pinion angles and wearing out u joints and he hadn't had any issues...

 

You should be able to find some drive line calculators out there where u can out in the data points to determine if the angles are too steep...also if you need to phase the yokes

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I had the same question. I did a quick google search and a youtube video explained it pretty well.

Apparently, you want to eliminate your slip yoke when you lift your vehicle. The slip yoke is like a little bit if extra length that your driveshaft can extend. For bumps and stuff I guess. When you lift your vehicle, your driveshaft is now at an angle. The transmission is higher than the differential so it has to bend differently AND stretch. 1 or 2 inches of lift is no big deal, but if you do like 4 inches, then you start having problems. The angel would become so severe, that the u-joints would become weak. Also, in this video (referring to older Jeeps YJs I think he said), the driveshafts would extend so much that they would actually slip out of the transmission a tiny bit and in certain gears, it wouldn't go into gear and it would damage the trans.

 

Take a look, it seems to make sense, but they are very expensive.

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=rSi1dITVPB0

 

1a) we all know how a SYE works

1b) a SYE does not change drive line angles

 

2) the calmini SYE went away because there was not enough demand for it. (needed for more than 6" SL)

3)Don't Insult us or our rigs! These are not jeeps, they do not run jeep drive lines, they are not setup with jeep pinion angles or suspension geometry. (the jeep pinion noses down allot more with lift that's why long arm kits are so common for them)

 

Heloflyboy are you planning on doing 6" or more lift in back

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I had the same question. I did a quick google search and a youtube video explained it pretty well.

Apparently, you want to eliminate your slip yoke when you lift your vehicle. The slip yoke is like a little bit if extra length that your driveshaft can extend. For bumps and stuff I guess. When you lift your vehicle, your driveshaft is now at an angle. The transmission is higher than the differential so it has to bend differently AND stretch. 1 or 2 inches of lift is no big deal, but if you do like 4 inches, then you start having problems. The angel would become so severe, that the u-joints would become weak. Also, in this video (referring to older Jeeps YJs I think he said), the driveshafts would extend so much that they would actually slip out of the transmission a tiny bit and in certain gears, it wouldn't go into gear and it would damage the trans.

 

Take a look, it seems to make sense, but they are very expensive.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSi1dITVPB0

 

I Learned something new (to me) :aok:

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Its all simple geometry to determine if you have enough slip (inwards or outwards) just need to know where full rebound and jounce are although full rebound won't happen unless you are jumping things typically

 

If there is a concern on binding the u joints...u could look at phasing as I mentioned earlier or double cardan or CV joints and keep the slip yoke instead of going to a slip shaft

 

Another thought would be to go to a 2 shaft setup but that would require tabbing of 2 deiveshafts and figuring out a midship bearing location and running through vibration calculations

 

Also if there is enough slip available you could adjust pinion angle and maybe change the power angle

Edited by unccpathfinder
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HI everyone. I have about 7- 8" of suspension lift. Check out video on you tube . It's listed as nissan pathfinder 4 link.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=XM-MeBodpq0

It has SteveO's 4 link. He has double cardan on his pathy,he is also using an atlas. His 4 link would not normally need a SYE,but most people would not go as high as mine. The four link work's GREAT. My limit on suspension right now is the driveline. I moved my axle back more than an inch from stock and with lift it starts to bind. In full droop it will get very close to falling out. I know I could lengthen the D.L. but that won't stop binding. There are also different joints I could add.The problem I have is I try to carry a spare D.L.just in case I am in the middle of no where when I twist one on rocks. I am experimenting with suspension. I am hoping to fit 37" tires without cutting my fenders. This is my work in progress and I am looking for the limit's with different set up's.

Thanks everyone.

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Awesome...I haven't got his 4 link yet but plan on it and plan to run 37s so def interested in this thread...u talked to steve..he has some.good connects and may be able to.get a sye designed and built if enough people are interested...

 

Thinking outside the box and know about a dozen bud heavy...could u weld up a brkt and fit a bushing and maybe a spring to limit the slip out of the trans and then do a slip shaft...wish I could sketch it...I've never really heard of a double slip but if u could limit the slip yoke it'd be.like a limited sye...either that or put a spacer on the rear axle but that gets scary...so put a 3" bl and move.the engine/transfer back by 1.5"...I thin that'll fit...it'd require custom engine and transfer mts but that should be pretty easy to do

 

I wanna do 37s and maybe shorten my wheelbase by 2-4"

Edited by unccpathfinder
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HI everyone. I have about 7- 8" of suspension lift. Check out video on you tube . It's listed as nissan pathfinder 4 link.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=XM-MeBodpq0

It has SteveO's 4 link. He has double cardan on his pathy,he is also using an atlas. His 4 link would not normally need a SYE,but most people would not go as high as mine. The four link work's GREAT. My limit on suspension right now is the driveline. I moved my axle back more than an inch from stock and with lift it starts to bind. In full droop it will get very close to falling out. I know I could lengthen the D.L. but that won't stop binding. There are also different joints I could add.The problem I have is I try to carry a spare D.L.just in case I am in the middle of no where when I twist one on rocks. I am experimenting with suspension. I am hoping to fit 37" tires without cutting my fenders. This is my work in progress and I am looking for the limit's with different set up's.

Thanks everyone.

:blink:

Are you trying to build a monster truck? :lol:

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No I do not want a monster truck. 37" is as big as I would like to go anything bigger and I think I will start breaking axle parts. I have found that we continue to hit harder trails with bigger rocks and the 37" makes them a little easier.

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I ran 38's with an eliminator... no big deal. And honestly.. if a guy is going to run 37's should he be thinking about something like a NWF doubler anyway?

 

Calmini no longer makes the tcase gears either. (Unless they can find 20 people to order them at the same time with probably a 6 month wait) The 3.92's are really just enough gearing with 5.38's in the axles (I wish mine were more like 5:1).

 

Our 2.33's don't have 5.38's as an option with gearing... There may be some numerically higher ratios out there for the 233.. however 5.38 is as high as it goes for a front hp44 and hp60.

 

To me... to go out and spend 3-4-500 on an SYE is crazy... that is a good chunk of doubler (or a complete powerplant conversion).

 

Now if you are really wanting something of the sort... keep on Steevo's case.. I know he is looking at options.

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