Nefarious Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 (edited) Got the new motor in today. everything fits...FINALLY! haha... It's all bolted in and connected to the trans again. What a fun job that was by myself lol. Oh well wasn't that bad. Some final shots of fitment and the vast amount of space i have now engine bay space!! the tensioner bracket i made to clear the filter, cant really see it but it has a big C-shaped curve in the middle so i can still thread the filter in and out. Just filled the bar on one side with weld and ground out the other to fit around the filter. alternator is tight... i think ill make some custom brackets for this one too later on to bring it in closer to the motor as well but it's fine for now, it fits! power steering fits with lots of room now. new obx headers i reamed out to fit the 10mm studs. Edited December 2, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Fyi to tungsten, in an r50 the a/c and alt belts are 2 serpentine an the ps is a v belt. Its factory that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 I think you installed your headers wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 Ya I was noticing I think they are in the wrong spot hey . I'll have to fix that tomorrow when I weld up a Y pipe to make it all work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 So what do you think about the OBX headers? I looked for reviews on google and found all good. They are stupid cheap on ebay. No Y pipe so I guess you will have to make your own. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share Posted December 2, 2011 I couldn't be happier with them! So far so good they look amazing. the TIG welds are phenominal, i worked as a powdercoater for years so ive seen a lot of pro welds and these things are among some of the best ive seen. ill get some pics they look flawless. the flanges are double seam welded and then ported on the inside. very smooth transitions. but yes, no y pipe and they dont even go close to the stock y pipe, they shoot way further back , especially the passenger side so custom work need be done to make them fit. quality of the product though, they are amazing. especially for what? i think i maybe paid 100$ shipped for them brand new! my buddy who builds v8s said he would have to pay 1000-1500$ for a set of headers of that quality for his v8s lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 2, 2011 Share Posted December 2, 2011 Just curious, what do those primary tubes measure on the inside? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 (edited) i just ran outside with my gauge, the primaries have ID of 35 mm (1.4"), although they do flare out just slightly right where they meet with the exhaust ports out a little bigger maybe 36-37mm tops, the collectors have 2" slip joints on each end.the OBX headers come with really nice compression clamps as well if u just want to utilize the slip joints, they look solid and shouldn't leak. got the front diff back in today. man that sucked lol, even with 2 people it sucked. last of the heavy stuff is done though, it's all tinkering from here. so happy to have the majority of this swap done now. Edited December 3, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 That should work. I heard a lot of crap about the weld quality of OBX headers. I guess they improved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 I have only this set to reference to but these ones are good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Cool, post some pics when you get them mounted up of how they exit under the truck. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Let me know if there are any clearance problems anywhere with those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 they are going up this weekend ill get some shots after install and let ya know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jadm4x4 Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 you wouldnt have a closer pic of the adjuster on the power sterring pump on the old motor would you???????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 (edited) which power steering adjuster? the one that the vg30e originally had or the one that the vg33e originally had? Edited December 4, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jadm4x4 Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 the vg30 if possibe. im trying to mix and match parts form a vg33, vg33e and a vg33i Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 (edited) sorry buddy you are lookin at it in the pics, i used the old vg30e adjuster to make my vg33e adjuster. cut the ends off end welded them on the other side so they would work on the opposite side of the motor. i do remember off the top of my head though that there wasn't any offset in the bracket, it was just a straight piece of steel. im sure someone else on here can help out with a picture of an un-chopped/welded/ground adjuster lol. Edited December 4, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jadm4x4 Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 all good. thanks for the effort anyway. some of youre other pics have helped me out a long way so far aswell but also watching as ive converted a vg33 from an r50 and putting it into a 93 pathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 (edited) okay so for whoever wants here's some pics of the headers install. there was a small bracket welded to the frame that led to nowhere and I have no idea why it was there. nothing was attached to it and it was in the way of the passenger side header, so i cut it off. it was right by where the trans cooler line comes out out of the trans on that side. after i lopped it off, smooth sailing! the driver side header isnt seated fully yet, there was a little bolt in the way that holds on the dipstick tube that is different for the vg33 (headers were for the 3.0) but it is literally about 1mm contact, ill grind it tomorrow. they do fit very nicely. the angles end up being pretty good to make up a Y pipe keep in mind i do have a 3" body lift so getting them in place might be different for you! Edited December 4, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 all good. thanks for the effort anyway. some of youre other pics have helped me out a long way so far aswell but also watching as ive converted a vg33 from an r50 and putting it into a 93 pathy hey no problem man glad some of the pics could help you. I am putting an r50 motor into a 93 as well. We are doing the exact same swap! haha. How are you doing it? Using your accessories or the r50 accessories? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejin4499 Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 are you going to do a dual exhaust or just run a y-pipe? With a body lift you should have lots of room on both sides of the transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 (edited) the truck already had a dual exhaust when i bought it but i am taking it out... just more to break on the trails and i want the room later for turbo and air tank. im running into a y pipe flared out to 2.5 inch to a side exit. the run for the Y pipe into single flows better anyways its a much shorter run and much more straight. this truck only has a single o2 sensor which would have to be put in a crossover pipe. so the 2 pipes must meet (which they didn't before) at some point (and they should anyways). once you re-route the second pipe back over to the other side after the crossover it ends up being a big jumbled mess. lol. the guy who had the truck before me had 'true' dual exhaust with an o2 sensor only in one pipe... im sure that is not good either lol. anyways yeah you will see how much better flowing the single works out to after the pipes meet up at the Y. I got it all planned out Edited December 4, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 (edited) the vg30 if possibe. im trying to mix and match parts form a vg33, vg33e and a vg33i vg33 and vg33e are the same thing. there is NO vg33i unless you build one. vg - designation for that series of cast iorn block. 33 - displacement, 30 and 33 available in the usa other numbers were custom builds; 31> .060" over pistons; 34> a 33 bored out to 92.5mm to use Q45 pistons e - multipoint fuel injection (mpfi) this letter is often left off when describing a vg30e or vg33e engine. i - throttle body injection (tbi) only 2 injectors. only came stock in vg30i form 87-89 w/d21 this letter is also often left off. also the VG33 used different tentioners in different vehicles. Edited December 4, 2011 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 looks like you have some tight spots! Could just be the way it appears in the pictures. Anxious to see it all completed. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 well there's no contact with the pipes to anything else. though they definitely take up more room than the stock setup! haha. the driver side header is not quite sitting exactly where it will be in the end either as the flange isnt quite seated (need to grind about 1 mm off of the edge of one of the flanges). There is a bolt that holds on a mount for the oil dipstick tube that is different on the vg30e. It would have fit if i still had the vg30e. Will be about 3 seconds with a grinder so not too bad, ill get another pic up once the Y pipe is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now