AK9849cy Posted October 7, 2011 Share Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) Ok, there may be a few mods that work for anyone including the folks that are a little tight with cash. These type of modifications may not be the best way to go... however they may be 90% cheaper. Over the next 24 hours I will be replacing those pesky short rear upper control arms. Today I went to the junkyard and picked up a set of tubular lower arms off the later 4 door Pathys. A person could also use a set of the old "dog bone" lowers for this, however they are probably a bit on the overkill side of strong for the job. The tubular units look exactly like the stock uppers only longer. Next, off to the scrap yard and picked up a chunk of 2 inch 1/4 wall tubing. It needs to be around 27 inches or so! Some folks use the lower arms as uppers then fab up new extend the lowers. It makes a cheap long arm kit being only two arms need to be fabricated to make the system work. What I am trying to do with this mod is use an extra set of extra lower arms as uppers and leave the lowers the same length. This would create a system with all the arms being the same length. Is it perfect? No It is a better setup than the factory links? Yep! Who would this mod work best for? While executing this project, the numbers were punched in a 4 link calculator. The rig using factory springs with the suspension at factory height would benefit the most. So.. a rig with a body lift and no suspension lift would be perfect. This really works for the broke owner that doesn't want to deal with steering/alignment problems that a suspension lift tends to cause. However (If I remember correctly from years back) a three inch body lift will allow for 32 or small 33 inch tires. Tubular uppers and lowers side by side. I went to the local pull your own parts yard.. picked two of the longer arms up for 30 bucks/ 15 each. First things first.. Cut one side of the OEM crossmember out. This way the other side keeps the axle upright and with the factory angles with being measured. Then I cut the stock cross-member so the OEM mount could be reused. Then the 2 inch scrap tubing had to be grown down just a little to fit into the metric tubing. More later.. Edited October 7, 2011 by AK9849cy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK9849cy Posted October 7, 2011 Author Share Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) Other side of cross member. Hack it off.. The upper links are mounted at an angle to the frame. Thus the longer links will be closer to the frame than the stock links were. The end of the cross-member needs to be cut to length to position the mounts to where the link needs to be. Cut out cross-member.. About 3 inches from the side/base of the mount... a line was drawn. Hack it off at that line.. Trim the other side.. Grind tube down so it can be pounded in a little.. Once a nice fitment/length is reached.. lay it flat to make sure the base of the mounts are not twisted around on the new cross-member. Check for the correct length.. then tack on the plane that was measured.. Edited October 7, 2011 by AK9849cy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK9849cy Posted October 7, 2011 Author Share Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) Roll the tube around 180 deg and check for true... I used a yard stick. Once it is tapped true tack that plane. Then check 90 deg from that tack and do the same. Then burn in home... VIOLA! About 30-50 bucks into this project using scrap. Edited October 7, 2011 by AK9849cy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK9849cy Posted October 8, 2011 Author Share Posted October 8, 2011 tacked in.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Not bad. What are the advantages of using equal length upper and lower links? Any disadvantages? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK9849cy Posted October 8, 2011 Author Share Posted October 8, 2011 (edited) Go flex out your rig and watch those short upper arms... they limit how far the axle can move. They also tilt the axle into angles that put the u joint at risk and cause the rear axle to come forward on the drooping side.. This will not by any means eliminate these problems... it just allows a person to flex that much more before it becomes a problem again. If a person isn't running longer than stock shocks... this probably will not be that noticeable. Setbacks... if using a big muffler.. it may need to be replaced with a thinner unit and maybe the exhaust will need rerouted in general. Edited October 8, 2011 by AK9849cy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 Setbacks... if using a big muffler.. it may need to be replaced with a thinner unit and maybe the exhaust will need rerouted in general. Time for side pipes. Nice work, and I like your approach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 (edited) Go flex out your rig and watch those short upper arms... they limit how far the axle can move. They also tilt the axle into angles that put the u joint at risk and cause the rear axle to come forward on the drooping side.. This will not by any means eliminate these problems... it just allows a person to flex that much more before it becomes a problem again. If a person isn't running longer than stock shocks... this probably will not be that noticeable. Setbacks... if using a big muffler.. it may need to be replaced with a thinner unit and maybe the exhaust will need rerouted in general. Your mod would actually work well with the way I re-routed the exhaust. PM me for pictures if you are interested in the design. Old picture, this is where I put the muffler: You got me thinking on doing the same thing to those upper links. Now I wonder why Nissan did not build it like that. I guess they weren't really anticipating on that much flex. Edited October 8, 2011 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK9849cy Posted October 8, 2011 Author Share Posted October 8, 2011 (edited) I was going to do this later.. however needed room for the 3 inch tailpipe.. The original cross-member that was cut out was in the way. This is the routing now... Edited October 8, 2011 by AK9849cy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 nice job, wish I had your crazy mad fab skills, and tools, and time...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 8, 2011 Share Posted October 8, 2011 I was going to do this later.. however needed room for the 3 inch tailpipe.. The original cross-member that was cut out was in the way. This is the routing now... That is nice! Make sure you have a good enough axle hop so that the axle doesn't flex into the pipe. Also when routing the pipe watch out for that gas tank, the clearance there is tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK9849cy Posted October 9, 2011 Author Share Posted October 9, 2011 That is nice! Make sure you have a good enough axle hop so that the axle doesn't flex into the pipe. Also when routing the pipe watch out for that gas tank, the clearance there is tight. It is not as tight with that cross-member gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 The most fun is trying to route it around the gas tank and between the gas tank and the frame rail. It took me 3 tries to get that one right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 You got me thinking on doing the same thing to those upper links. Now I wonder why Nissan did not build it like that. I guess they weren't really anticipating on that much flex. Actually, the rear ends have a surprising amount of flex for an older SUV simply by removing the sway bar and installing longer shocks. I can only imagine this mod being equally effective. This is beyond my meager skills right now as I haven't taught myself to weld yet. I have been looking for a local used unit though... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK9849cy Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 I will be working on this in the morning... 12 inch travel shocks and see how far these stock springs will go before falling out. May need to capture the top and bottom of the spring so they have to stretch in order to flex beyond the normal unloaded static length. I prefer this way for the most part anyway.. makes side hilling not such a test of nerve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 How did you determine the direction of the mounts when welding the final section to the frame. In the final picture you've got it so they are facing what looks like straight down. I haven't got the Pathfinder here right now to go and take a look at the factory mount to see if you just mounted it the same way as factory, or if you are mounting it that way to maximize down travel, or for some other reason I haven't a clue about. One other question. Once you get it all sorted out, and get a feel for it, could you give us some feedback on how it feels driving as a daily driver. How it responds with the changes vs stock, and how it compares to your original Red 4 door design with the Raised spring mount and long arm system. I've been planning to do something like that since your original write up with the only worry being highway handling. I thought I read somewhere that you said that it was always more comfortable at 5 mph then 55. I'd be happy with less travel so long as I could get my family around in it safely. Kick ass work as always, and great write ups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK9849cy Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 (edited) It is just tacked in with that pic. I have yet to get out there and fine tune it all. There is a measurement that has to be matched via the 4 link calculator in which 1/4 inch makes a huge difference. Ya now... it may be twisted just a bit down by looking at it in that view.. On the first rig I was after as much flex as possible. It was made for a total different purpose. This one is for DD/camping/trail usage. It will have limited slips front and rear.. etc. I am totally after it being a DD first thus why you still see the sway bar/ factory springs/geometry. This rig does however have the solid axle swap up front. I am not a fan of the ruggedness of the factory IFS. I wish it was a better setup! When done with this rig you will see it driven for a number of months. And yes you will see some type of feedback. Ya may even see some of the mounting hardware that is used up front available for folks that are interested. Trent and I were just talking the other day on how I want a rig my wife would love to drive... This is the Guinea pig, being her Xterra is next! Other than the crazy power plant, the rest of the build is focused more bang for the buck. It would be nice for someone to not have a fear of spending 5 grand trying to put a solid axle under their rig. For a number of reasons my fingers are crossed that this rig is what I hope it to be! A prototype of some maybe future parts... Edited October 10, 2011 by AK9849cy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 The factory running gear setup in the WD21 is a whole lot better than in the WD22! Just something to keep in mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK9849cy Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 (edited) The factory running gear setup in the WD21 is a whole lot better than in the WD22! Just something to keep in mind. Who said it was going to have factory running gear? Edited October 10, 2011 by AK9849cy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 (edited) Was just implying that if you were to pick between hacking up a WD22 or a WD21 first you should go with the WD22. They could both use improvement to make them more off-road worthy though. SAS FTW! Edited October 10, 2011 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK9849cy Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 (edited) The frame is purdy much the same on both. One has frame horns.. and the other doesn't. Have hacked both up multiple times.. The biggest problem with the Xterra's is the gas tank. That Pathy tank rules! Edited October 10, 2011 by AK9849cy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 14, 2011 Share Posted October 14, 2011 nice work again ryan... i have dumped my calmini springs before...if I did this link mod I'd def had to put spring retainers in...the upper links and frame rail are what limits me (tires hit frame) i've got the 3" panhard drop and no sway bar if you don't recall from the moab trip...i helped it with some wheel spacers out there but i don't like that as a long term solution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK9849cy Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 (edited) Ya, crazy flex just makes a rig champ of the ramp. Which if that is what a person is after, build away! Springs that fall out of the seats (for more flex) don't interest me anymore.. The Red pathy was a scary ride in Moab... all that off-camber and nothing holding it down. As weird as it sounds my leaf spring HB does way better out there. The HB weighs a lot less.. which is a big help.. but the leaf springs have to be forced to drop for flex. If the rig is tippy they tend to hold it down better. Edited October 15, 2011 by AK9849cy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Yea Jeff dropped springs all over the place...that truck had too much lift IMO but hey he didn't have tre problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme1738 Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 (edited) yea you better hide under a chair!!!!!and it was only twice! Edited December 4, 2011 by itsme1738 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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