Front End Rebuild

[Mr_Clean]

I'm getting ready to do a full front end rebuild in a couple weeks. Most of the parts appear pretty well shot and it handles pretty sloppy so I'm going to rip it all out and rebuild. I want to make sure I get everything done I should while I'm in there, so any suggestions are appreciated.

 

Here's my parts list:

 

Tie Rods

Axles

Ball Joints

Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushings

Strut Rod Bushings

Shocks

Sway Bar Bushings and End Links

Center Link

 

I will also be cleaning, inspecting, replacing, and repacking the wheel bearings as needed.

 

Anything I'm missing? Any special tools I'll need to pick up or make?

 

I've read many of the threads here and understand the LCA bushings will probably be the biggest PITA in this job, but I have a torch, time, and beer so I'm going to give it a go.

 

Thanks!

 

-Scott

[RJSquirrel]

Inspect your torsion bar boots. Make sure you have replacements. All mine were cracked when I did my front end. The boot for the drivers rear is a different part number (silicone for exhaust heat) Dealer part only.

 

Front wheel bearing locknut tool

 

http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4170.htm

 

You'll need a 19mm crowsfoot wrench to get the lower control arm off. Its a serious PITA.

 

I'd add a new idler arm, and calmini idler arm support bracket.

 

HooHaa centerlink from grassroots4x4.com. The stock ones don't last very long if you wheel at all. After a 1 week off-road trip, I needed a new one. It was scary loose on the drive home. It was brand new before I left.

 

Tension rods are commonly rusted dangerously thin where they go through the frame. You're in Cali where rust is less frequent. Other common problem is socket in the frame where the tension rod locates may need to be repaired. Welding is required if the holes are enlarged. There are several threads on how to perform repairs. Replacement parts can be purchased for the frame. Consult member "Alkorahil" for the appropriate part #s.

Edited September 22, 2011 by RJSquirrel

[Mr_Clean]

Yeah, I do appreciate the CA weather for rust prevention... so far there doesn't seem to be much, if any, rust on the Pathy.

 

I have read the threads on welding up bearing races and washers to replace the tension rod bushing cups on the frame, and there's not much more I love than pulling out the mig box and making smoke! In fact, I may pick up some steel and try my hand at fab-ing up that idler arm brace. Doesn't look like there's too much to it, and I enjoy trying to take the "built not bought" approach when I can.

 

For the crowfoot, 1/2" or 3/8" drive? Basically, do I need to get the attitude adjusting breaker bar out, or is it just an awkward place to get into requiring the crowfoot? I think I can find 3/8" locally, but may have to order a 1/2" drive.

 

Thanks for the tips!

 

-Scott

[RJSquirrel]

Go with a 3/8" for the crows foot. its just awkward and really tight access. No attitude adjustment possible, unfortunately.

Edited September 22, 2011 by RJSquirrel

[Trogdor636]

Yeah, I do appreciate the CA weather for rust prevention... so far there doesn't seem to be much, if any, rust on the Pathy.

 

I have read the threads on welding up bearing races and washers to replace the tension rod bushing cups on the frame, and there's not much more I love than pulling out the mig box and making smoke! In fact, I may pick up some steel and try my hand at fab-ing up that idler arm brace. Doesn't look like there's too much to it, and I enjoy trying to take the "built not bought" approach when I can.

 

For the crowfoot, 1/2" or 3/8" drive? Basically, do I need to get the attitude adjusting breaker bar out, or is it just an awkward place to get into requiring the crowfoot? I think I can find 3/8" locally, but may have to order a 1/2" drive.

 

Thanks for the tips!

 

-Scott

 

Sweet, I'm buying you a 12 pack and driving down so you can weld some bearing races in for me.

[JamesRich]

Any special tools I'll need to pick up or make?

 

I've read many of the threads here and understand the LCA bushings will probably be the biggest PITA in this job, but I have a torch, time, and beer so I'm going to give it a go.

 

Thanks!

 

-Scott

 

getting the bushing out shouldn't be bad with a torch just messy. I used a hole saw to eat out the rubber and then cut a slit in the steel band with a hack saw and then drove it out with a chisel. Getting the new bushing in was the PITA!

Get a 5/8" all thread and some coupling nuts to make a puller. The coupling nuts are made for joining two pieces of all thread together and are around 1 1/2" long and give you much more thread surface. Then use washers and a variety of deep sockets or make spacers to pull the bushing back into the frame.

This is a pic from the FSM of the factory tool you need to replicate.

Good luck!

James

[Mr_Clean]

Thanks James! The hole saw is a great idea! I printed out the FA section of the FSM (it's all ready to get greasy!)

 

The bushings I was going to order are the Energy Suspension bushings. The LCA bushings that come in the kit appear to be a split bushing with no metal sleeve.

 

 

as opposed to these

 

Is there anything I need to be aware of in going with the ES bushings?

 

 

 

Sweet, I'm buying you a 12 pack and driving down so you can weld some bearing races in for me.

 

Shoot me a message when you're ready to do the cups and I'll be happy to weld them in for you!

[adamzan]

The ES ones might squeak if you don't grease them enough.

[JamesRich]

The bushings I was going to order are the Energy Suspension bushings. The LCA bushings that come in the kit appear to be a split bushing with no metal sleeve.

 

 

as opposed to these

 

Is there anything I need to be aware of in going with the ES bushings?

That lower pic is the one I used, I still have an extra one in my tool box and thats where it's going to stay! I didn't know they had a split type bushing for the lower control arm. Sure would be easier to install but I wonder how long it will last and if it will have issues with squeaking. If ever I need to change mine again I will find out. Are you definitely changing your lowers?

 

I'm looking at changing my axles too. I want to keep my factory axles because only the boots are busted so I want to buy new axles not remans. It seems every place that sells new axles are chinese made. I'm looking at masterpro select from O'reilly, I haven't read anything negative about them yet. I may have just not searched enough though. What brand were you looking at?

James

Edited September 24, 2011 by JamesRich

[Mr_Clean]

Yeah, I'm definitely going to change the lowers. Might put it off until a 3 day weekend though. The kit comes with some of their Formula 5 grease and I'm ordering extra, so I'll grease them up pretty good.

 

The Axles I'm ordering are on RockAuto. A-1 Cardone and they don't say reman and there's no core charge so I'm cautiously optimistic they're new. Back when I worked in an auto parts store (way back in the 80's...) A-1 Cardone put out some pretty good parts... I'm hoping they still do, but it has to be better than DuraCrap from Autozone...

[adamzan]

I have the same axle (cardone from rock auto) and it has held up pretty well so far, it's been in there about a year, the boots seem tougher than the oem ones.

[JamesRich]

The only comments I found on cardone axles were that they were crappy chinese axles, but I've seen quite a few guys on here using them with no problems. I did read one comment that they would bind up sooner than the OEM axles be the guy said they may have just been tight because they were new.

The main problem I'm worried about is the rep the chinese have for using inferior steel. I read some post on a toyota board about advance auto's line of axles where the guy kept twisting the splines off the differential end of the axles. Obviously not hard enough steel. The toyota front axle has splines that go into the differential, I much prefer our flange type axle than having to pull the shaft out of the differential and worry about damaging the seal. Of course it's easier to change the seal on that style to so I guess there are good points either way.

The rockauto axles are lifetime warranty? I may still get the O'reilly axles so if I have a problem I just go throw them on the counter instead of having to ship them back.

James

[blackspawn]

Uh-oh.. I bought AutoZone axles. I hope they do good.I used Energy Suspension bushing all around. The only thing I chicken out in doing is the lower control arms.

Edited September 25, 2011 by blackspawn

[Trogdor636]

The rockauto axles are lifetime warranty? I may still get the O'reilly axles so if I have a problem I just go throw them on the counter instead of having to ship them back.

James

 

I'm sorta thinking the same thing you are. I'd love to save on the Rockauto axles, but having a issue with the O'reillys part and being less than 10 minutes from a store sounds better to me.

[Mr_Clean]

I did a little looking around to try to find which axle would be the best, but with just about every brand it seems that someone has a nightmare story to tell. Looks like most, if not all, aftermarket axles are made in China, and most remans seem to grind the axle down and use oversized bearings.

 

I would love to go with new OEM axles but it looks like those are over $500 an axle! I can change a lot of cheap ones for that price, and that makes a lifetime warranty at a local brick and mortar store sound much better than RockAuto.

 

Raxle.com seems to have really good reviews (looks like they only use OEM shafts and new, high quality parts). I might give them a call and see if they have anything for the Pathy, but I'd expect them to be at least x2 the price of the Cardone's at Rock Auto.

[JamesRich]

I did a little looking around to try to find which axle would be the best, but with just about every brand it seems that someone has a nightmare story to tell. Looks like most, if not all, aftermarket axles are made in China, and most remans seem to grind the axle down and use oversized bearings.

 

I would love to go with new OEM axles but it looks like those are over $500 an axle! I can change a lot of cheap ones for that price, and that makes a lifetime warranty at a local brick and mortar store sound much better than RockAuto.

 

Raxle.com seems to have really good reviews (looks like they only use OEM shafts and new, high quality parts). I might give them a call and see if they have anything for the Pathy, but I'd expect them to be at least x2 the price of the Cardone's at Rock Auto.

Raxles.com doesn't post prices so yes they probably are expensive. I went to O'reillys yesterday and ordered a set, $165 for the pair and they will be here thursday. I'm sure the quality of O'reillys and the cardone are the same, I'm just paying more for the convenience. Hopefully I can swap them this weekend because the weekend after that is the opening of muzzle loader season.

When you think you'll have a chance to start the rebuild of your front end? I'm anxious to see how those bushings go.

James

[Steve_RI]

I have Raxle axles on my VW. Excellent quality. There were just too many issues with the cheap axles to warrant going with them. They were $175 and axle. Marty, the owner, runs a nice business and is very well known in the VW community.

 

I had all poly bushings on my 89 front to back. The LCA was a nightmare I remember vividly and I wouldn't do it on my 92 unless absolutely necessary. I had to sawzall the pins out, which is an extra expense if you have to go that route. I ended up burning the bushings out from there, which was nasty because it was in my garage. That bushing is also the most susceptible to squeaking, so use a good marine grade grease that is preferably Aluminum based. I had to taken the f'ing things off AGAIN because the squeaking was that bad. After using a Al based moly grease on them I did not have any issues up until the truck was totaled, and that was probably two or three years after greasing them good.

Edited September 27, 2011 by Steve_RI

[Trogdor636]

Raxles.com doesn't post prices so yes they probably are expensive. I went to O'reillys yesterday and ordered a set, $165 for the pair and they will be here thursday. I'm sure the quality of O'reillys and the cardone are the same, I'm just paying more for the convenience. Hopefully I can swap them this weekend because the weekend after that is the opening of muzzle loader season.

When you think you'll have a chance to start the rebuild of your front end? I'm anxious to see how those bushings go.

James

 

Let me know how they work out for ya, I wanna replace mine in the next couple weeks. If the O'reillys seem to work well then I might go that route.

[Mr_Clean]

When you think you'll have a chance to start the rebuild of your front end? I'm anxious to see how those bushings go.

James

I was going to try and get it done in a couple weeks, but with a few things that have come up and my October hunting trip, it's looking like November before I'll be able to dedicate a full weekend to the project. I think I might shoot for Veterans Day weekend to give myself an extra day to get it done. I'll order all the parts this weekend though.

 

 

 

Regarding the tie rods and ball joints for a basically street only vehicle (maybe some light trails a couple times a year):

 

Moog vs Raybestos service?

I'm sure Moog or Raybestos Professional Grade would be much better, but it looks like $40 vs $140 for just the tie rods. I was planning on going with Moog (I have some 90 degree zirks to swap in), but it looks like I could save over $200 if I go with Raybestos Servcie Grade. Just wanted to get your opinions since it's not going to be off road much.

 

-Scott

Edited September 28, 2011 by Mr_Clean

[JamesRich]

I was going to try and get it done in a couple weeks, but with a few things that have come up and my October hunting trip, it's looking like November before I'll be able to dedicate a full weekend to the project. I think I might shoot for Veterans Day weekend to give myself an extra day to get it done. I'll order all the parts this weekend though.

 

 

 

Regarding the tie rods and ball joints for a basically street only vehicle (maybe some light trails a couple times a year):

 

Moog vs Raybestos service?

I'm sure Moog or Raybestos Professional Grade would be much better, but it looks like $40 vs $140 for just the tie rods. I was planning on going with Moog (I have some 90 degree Zerk's to swap in), but it looks like I could save over $200 if I go with Raybestos Servcie Grade. Just wanted to get your opinions since it's not going to be off road much.

 

-Scott

Yea I know about hunting trips, our season is about to start. Hunting is the main reason I bought this truck so it has to be rollin when the season gets here. Get some of that aluminum based moly grease that Steve_RI suggested. Thats why I love forum, someone will save me the learning experience that he had to go through.

As for ball joints and tierods I got all mine from O'reillys. I didn't get the lowest grade but not their top grade either. I just made sure they were all lifetime warranties. One thing I forgot to check till I was home on the ball joints having a grease zerk. They ordered them for me so it wasn't like I could just refuse them. The boots on them are already cracking and I can't add grease so I'll just keep an eye on them till they get some slack and try to upgrade to a better joint. So just make sure they come with zerks when you are ordering them.

James

[blackspawn]

I bought tie rod end and ball joints from Auto Zone and they all had zerk fitting and some were even Moogs!! I only paid $11.00-$15.00 a piece.

[Junglebob95WD21]

The only comments I found on cardone axles were that they were crappy chinese axles, but I've seen quite a few guys on here using them with no problems. I did read one comment that they would bind up sooner than the OEM axles be the guy said they may have just been tight because they were new.

The main problem I'm worried about is the rep the chinese have for using inferior steel. I read some post on a toyota board about advance auto's line of axles where the guy kept twisting the splines off the differential end of the axles. Obviously not hard enough steel. The toyota front axle has splines that go into the differential, I much prefer our flange type axle than having to pull the shaft out of the differential and worry about damaging the seal. Of course it's easier to change the seal on that style to so I guess there are good points either way.

The rockauto axles are lifetime warranty? I may still get the O'reilly axles so if I have a problem I just go throw them on the counter instead of having to ship them back.

James

[Junglebob95WD21]

The A1 Cardone axles are remain on the (60) series numbers. But if you get the Cardone select axles (66 at the start of the part #) they are new. Pretty big difference just looking at them. Good quality steel and obvious machining. One pretty good reman company I've found working parts counter is Autotech Engineering. I've never had one come back yet on any application out there. I wish they made a bullet proof upgrade out there! Empi is good too if you can find them. I need to do mine bad! As I'm currently doing the same job you're working on (saved up the dough for all Moog parts finally!) But I'm not sure I want to steer away from factory units either unless they are beast lol.

[adamzan]

I have one of the A1 cardone ones (new) from rock auto. After installing it I had a vibration only when the hubs were locked. I swapped it out for a fenco reman one and the problem went away.

[Harbinger]

Inspect your torsion bar boots. Make sure you have replacements. All mine were cracked when I did my front end. The boot for the drivers rear is a different part number (silicone for exhaust heat) Dealer part only.

 

Actually, all Nissan offers anymore is the silicone boots. When I bought mine (had to drop them to install the new transmission), the other boots had been superseded by the silicone one.