Jump to content

Help me diagnose my engine tick


sewebster
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ok, so I've got this tick from my engine... engine is newly rebuilt, so I'd like to think it's not something major :)

 

Tried finding the source of the tick by listening through a pry bar touching all over the place but no dice. Definitely seems to be coming from the driver's side. Unplugging each spark plug one at a time didn't silence it, idle changed each time too. I had the plenum off and wiggled around all the rockers/lifters and everything was tight. I had the oil pan off recently too and nothing was wiggling down there either. Compression test is good. Injectors were just cleaned, new ignition stuff etc etc.

 

 

I'm hoping it's my manifolds, but dunno if this is the "infamous" tick or not. I know none of the studs are broken because I tapped them to M10 when I did the rebuilt. Manifolds were slightly warped, but I used a feeler (with no gasket) and when the bolts were tightened there were no significant gaps. Maybe it's time for the Thorley's...

 

Anyway, happy for any thoughts, but maybe it's hard through video. Thanks guys.

 

Edit: I should also mention that I replaced all the lifters at the rebuild, followed the correct run in procedure, none of them were soft etc. etc. Doesn't mean one hasn't seized up I guess, but...

Edited by sewebster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well pulling the shields and looking around and re-torqueing is pretty easy so I guess I'll do that. Sorry about the wind noise, heh, didn't realize when I was filming. Another reason for an e-fan I guess :) It's not just the injectors. I can hear those too, but this is something else. It sounds like valve noise to me, but I just can't find anything. I guess if it's not the manifolds and it IS valve noise then it isn't SUCH a bad thing. I guess I'm just worried about a bottom end problem, but hopefully I have no reason to...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if everything is good with the manifolds/studs, then maybe check the valves after all other exterior possibilities have been exhausted. when the t belt was installed the cams were lined up correctly with the timing cover marks? maybe the 1 cam is a bit out? when you revved it up may be my bad hearing, but sounded like there was some hesitation before it really revved?

Edited by Slick
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How about this. Rev it up slowly to about 5K with very little skinny pedal. Then mash on it. If it ticks when you mash on it, it's the manifold studs. All of the exhaust needs to escape NOW due to the sudden load causing more ticking.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll report back when I have a chance to check it out. Shouldn't take long, except I've got a 3 month old, so, sometimes things end up on the back burner! Slick: I counted the timing belt teeth several times, so it should be all timed correctly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kid is having a sleepy afternoon so I got outside... the manifolds were somewhat loose! Tightened it up and the noise seems to be gone. Yeehaw!

 

I guess part of the problem is me guessing at the torque, since I upgraded to M10. I have it at 20 ft-lbs, which isn't much for 10mm, but the spec for the 8mm studs is also pretty low and I just did some conversion to try to get about the same bolt tension. I guess I need to look up an FSM from an engine with the 10mm, like the VG33.

 

Edit: '96 FSM says manifold nuts are 21-25 ft-lbs, so maybe I can even go a bit tighter. Didn't put the covers back on yet anyway.

Edited by sewebster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...