feyded Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 Im not sure what ya mean by the temp sensor for the gauge, Im looking through my book and not seeing anything extra, unless Im skimming over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 There are two temperature sensors right next to each other on the upper rad hose. One has a "real" plastic connector. That is for the ECU. The other just has a metal spade, that is for the gauge on the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feyded Posted July 23, 2011 Author Share Posted July 23, 2011 Hmm, I just changed the one with the spade, I guess that wouldnt be what the code was calling out was it? Guess Ill need to look at this more when I get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 He has an 87, it is not the same as the 90+ mpfi models, sewebster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 He has an 87, it is not the same as the 90+ mpfi models, sewebster. Ah yes, good point. Sorry! Don't listen to me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feyded Posted July 23, 2011 Author Share Posted July 23, 2011 Well I was looking on courtesyparts.com and I managed to find a water temperature sensor for the truck, it is like you said, it has a plug. My problem is, the haynes manual does not list where that goes.. unless its down by the thermostat.. That has me wondering, I need to see if I can make the ECU throw the code again if I didnt replace the right thing, the truck would sound like it had trouble going back to idle(sounded like it almost would die) after I gave it some gas though, then it recovered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krmiller07 Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 (edited) Check you fuel filter too. the temp sensor is down behind the center a/c belt pulley. You may need a flashlight to see the terminal. just follow the wiring harness that goes across the top of the engine behind the timing belt cover. There is a thread on here about changing it without having to remove the timing belt cover. I changed mine this spring following those instructions, it was kind of a pain in the arsh, but with alot of patients and the right socket and extension I got it in with out cross threading it into the block or cylinder head. I cant remember what it threads into, but when the old one came out, the tip was broken off. If it threads into aluminum then I'd use some anti-seize on it. Edited July 23, 2011 by krmiller07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 The cylinder head temp sensor is on the front of the driver side head. It doesn't screw into a water jacket so you don't have to drain the coolant. It has the same style plastic plug like a injector (should be yellow) and will probably crack when you pull it off. It's a real pain to replace, I just pulled the timing belt, gears and the rear cover to get to it. I find it easier to just do it right instead of trying to sneak it out. Takes longer but is less frustrating. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feyded Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 (edited) Well I worked on it some today, and swapped the thermostat out(which was SOOO ANNOYING!), as well as checked that sensor. The plug is broken on the wire, like the little thing that clips onto the sensor. I figured that was the problem since it was pretty much hanging off of the sensor, well I fixed it best I could, and then put it all back together, and the same thing happened, and Im still throwing the code. Tomorrow Im going to swap the sensor out after I ohm em out, as well as the wires. Heat shrinked the plug and sensor(didnt have my multimeter until after it was all put together ) as well as coated them in dieletric grease. Edited July 24, 2011 by feyded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Terminals look pretty corroded? Maybe not making contact? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feyded Posted July 24, 2011 Author Share Posted July 24, 2011 Yeh thats before I cleaned em, but Ill have to test em tomorrow and make sure everything is still good, Im still getting code 13, so Im REALLY hoping this is my problem, cause she runs great at startup, then after a few minutes, she starts actin up. Fingers crossed for tomorrow! Also my temp gauge is now reading further than the first line, so something was working properly(probably the thermostat I almost gave up on installing). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 Well I worked on it some today, and swapped the thermostat out(which was SOOO ANNOYING!), as well as checked that sensor. The plug is broken on the wire, like the little thing that clips onto the sensor. I figured that was the problem since it was pretty much hanging off of the sensor, well I fixed it best I could, and then put it all back together, and the same thing happened, and Im still throwing the code. Tomorrow Im going to swap the sensor out after I ohm em out, as well as the wires. Heat shrinked the plug and sensor(didnt have my multimeter until after it was all put together ) as well as coated them in dieletric grease. Mine looked just like that. I cleaned the terminals and put some silicone grease on them. The plug in is on a short pigtail that plugs next to the distributor, we may be able to get a new pigtail from the dealer. You can unplug it by the distributor and check resistance there to make sure the plug at the sensor is making good contact. Mine has been ok since but not to worried about it since one day I will finish the harness to swap the fuel injection. My sensor swept good when I heated it but was 300 ohms out of range and apparently that was too much. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feyded Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 Well I found my problem, it was quite simple, yet I didnt realize it till I started chasing the harness back to where it connects near the AB valve and the dizzy. The harness connecting to the sensor had exposed wires connecting into the plug that connects to the truck harness. They were touching, and one was not even attached. I fixed it with rewiring it and bypassing the plug all together cause it eventually just fell off. Truck runs great now, I drove it around, but now the oil light sometimes comes on, I have plenty of power, but Im not too sure if the plug is staying connected down at the sensor(what a crap tastic design, not sure what to look for on courtesyparts.com to find that harness though so I can find a name to order it when I call factorynissanparts.com). It idles fine, and temperature is good as well, I was driving it though not having a single problem and I pulled in to a driveway to turn around(the owner was standing outside) and I go to reverse and the light pops on, so I killed it(the owner walked up to me and was telling me how much he loves these trucks and wishes he never got rid of his, but his daughters son drives it now with over 400k miles all original. Then he went on to say how reliable they are as I was having issues with mine ). So now Im wondering if the sensor is popping in and out while Im driving because of the vibration of the engine, as Im still getting the code 13 from the ECU. To be honest though, Im so incredibly impressed by how simple these things are designed, yet runs like a tank. Thanks again everyone for pointing me the right direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Cool. Did you clear the codes in the ECU? I forget if you even need to do that. I would look into the oil light issue... could be an unrelated problem. Probably it is just the sensor or the wire, but better to find out for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feyded Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 I thought I did, but after reading how to do it in the 'How To' section here, its different than my haynes was saying. Ill try what NPORA says and see where that goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 You would know if your engine didn't have any oil pressure, the lifters would be ticking like crazy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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