tsin Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 (edited) Hi i want to remove engine (vg30) from my wd21 (1991) pathfinder. Is it possible without trasmission (manual), front axle or car body moving?? we have got the engine on the winch, all trasmission srews are unsrewed.. and there is only 4centimetres hole between engine and trasmission.. i dont believe that is possible to "disconnect" it from transmission because oil pan collide with axle if we want to pull the engine in front.. thank you very much for your opinion or some expirience with that... and sorry for my english Edited June 27, 2011 by tsin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jadm4x4 Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 from when i removed mine. i had to move the transmision back as far as i could go. undo drive shafts and transmision support and push it back as far as it will go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsin Posted June 27, 2011 Author Share Posted June 27, 2011 and when you move your transmission back.. you unscrew it somewhere?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 If you remove your front differential the engine will move forward and come out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Moving this to the Garage Section where more people are likely to see it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 The FSM says to remove the transmission. I think most people don't do this, but it gives you an idea that removing the engine isn't completely trivial. There are a bunch of options... if you try moving the transmission back, then yeah, you're going to need to disconnect it from the transmission mount. I didn't move my transmission or front diff but I removed the front suspension crossmember... this involved dropping the t-bars. Not sure if I would do it that way if I did it again (though now nothing is rusted on, so maybe). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsin Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 engine out.. thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 engine out.. thx Cmon you gotta tell us how you did it or post a pic or something! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlBlue Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 The FSM says to remove the transmission. I think most people don't do this, but it gives you an idea that removing the engine isn't completely trivial. There are a bunch of options... if you try moving the transmission back, then yeah, you're going to need to disconnect it from the transmission mount. I didn't move my transmission or front diff but I removed the front suspension crossmember... this involved dropping the t-bars. Not sure if I would do it that way if I did it again (though now nothing is rusted on, so maybe). I just started the to pull the engine out of my 91. The FSM and Haynes both say to leave the trans attached and I think I know why...the 5th bolt on the top of the tranny is ridiculous! Anyway the plan is to drop the front diff tomorrow evening after work. It looks like that will give plenty of room to get at the exhaust bolts on the drivers side, and let the oil pan clear (I hope). I have a low mileage replacement from a wrecked 95 waiting to go in. The manual says to use a sealant between the engine and the tranny during the install any suggestions on what to use? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 I used some RTV but I doubt it matters much. I believe it is just to keep water out of your clutch if you are in something deep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsin Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 Cmon you gotta tell us how you did it or post a pic or something! unscrewed transmission unscrewed cardan shaft i think that we have no chance to insert the engine back to the car with this way.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlBlue Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 Well you don"t mess around and got it out alright! Are you going to reinstall/raise up the tranny and drive shaft, and then lower the the diff so you can reinstall the engine? I just finished loosening the front diff, and exhaust on mine and hope to raise the engine up and drop the diff tomorrow. Did you have any problems seperating the engine from the transmission? If so, how did you seperate them? One more thing...how do you get your dog to stay stiil and hold all that stuff up (last pic) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 Wow, it's so clean in your bell housing! Mine was totally coated in black goo. I think my trans is leaking in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsin Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 Are you going to reinstall/raise up the tranny and drive shaft, and then lower the the diff so you can reinstall the engine? i made general repair of engine heads, install new shaft seals, head gaskets, timing belt, clutch etc.. so i hope next week i can try to put the engine back in the car. iam plannig to drop front diff down and insert the engine with oil pan installed, hope its possible Did you have any problems seperating the engine from the transmission? If so, how did you seperate them? no.. i used two big screw driver to seperate them, not a big deal i think Wow, it's so clean in your bell housing! Mine was totally coated in black goo. I think my trans is leaking in there. it was little dirty on the place where is starter and flywheel (pic after clean) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlBlue Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Even with the engine up about 10cm, it seems like the torsion bars (at least one side)need to be removed to lower the diff and slide it backward. It doesn't mention this in the FSM or Haynes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 (edited) Even with the engine up about 10cm, it seems like the torsion bars (at least one side)need to be removed to lower the diff and slide it backward. It doesn't mention this in the FSM or Haynes. Torsion bars don't need to come off to remove the front diff. I just did this a month ago. Follow the oil pan removal procedure at the front of the EM section. Most of it is about removing the front diff. It does take a bit of awkward wiggling to get it out once you have everything unattached. Way easier to remove then to put back in though Edited July 8, 2011 by sewebster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlBlue Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Thanks I didn't look under the oil pan removal, just the differential removal section. I will give it another try this weekend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsin Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 (edited) today removed front diff for a more place when i want to reinstall the engine.. but have another problem-> how to change inner (diff side) cv joint boot kit????? Edited July 9, 2011 by tsin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlBlue Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 today removed front diff for a more place when i want to reinstall the engine.. but have another problem-> how to change inner (diff side) cv joint boot kit????? I think you need to take the plug out of the (diff side) end, and seperate the assembly inside to slide the boot off/on. Not sure if you need a press to seperate them though. I didn't do this on mine, I replaced the whole drive axle with boots since both ends were shot and time was a factor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 9, 2011 Share Posted July 9, 2011 I spy new transmission? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsin Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 I spy new transmission? no, only general repair of engine.. transmission- maybe later? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsin Posted July 9, 2011 Author Share Posted July 9, 2011 I think you need to take the plug out of the (diff side) end, and seperate the assembly inside to slide the boot off/on. Not sure if you need a press to seperate them though. I didn't do this on mine, I replaced the whole drive axle with boots since both ends were shot and time was a factor. anyone who did it in real? iam so disgusted from these inner boots Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 no, only general repair of engine.. transmission- maybe later? Hmmm. It looks incredibly shiny and way too clean... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlBlue Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 anyone who did it in real? iam so disgusted from these inner boots Maybe you will have a better chance of getting a solid answer by starting a new topic about inner cv boots? It might catch the attention of an inner cv boot expert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsin Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 today we instal the engine in, with no problem.. we opened cv joints by plug side- more power needed (thx OlBlue), but my carparts store sell me dimensionally wrong boots.. i think there is diameter 27 and 87mm, and 103mm long.. in the Czech Republic is difficult to buy right dimension boots- is there someone who knows some other cars with dimensionally same cv joints boots?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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