Kingman Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 Sounds good. That poor cold engine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted August 1, 2011 Author Share Posted August 1, 2011 I'm going to make another one, a 0-60, and a drive-by video. I found the source of that rattle you can briefly hear in my first one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 (edited) New videos added... Have made a few improvements with hangers and fixed a couple of leaks. More detailed explanation and showcase of the exhaust system too. It was not entirely possible to make it straight because the transfer case was in the way so there are two mellow bends around it. Other than that, the midpipe, the catalytic converter, and the muffler are all lined up straight and centered relative to each other. The tailpipe is obviously not straight but as I found out my exhaust pipe could not exit next to the passenger door. If I had the exhaust dump before the axle, it would not be street legal. [media=]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hoxuc_lWzH8[/media] [media=]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zNVQcrD4_U[/media] Copy and paste from the video description: Complete with headers and high flow components this stainless steel system was mostly home made out of small pipe sections. The exhaust system was done in 2.5" for maximum flow without losing torque and it perfectly matches the output of the Y-pipe. There are a total of 3 hangers. Two on the tailpipe and one bracket welded to the muffler (muffler bracket was not shown in the video). It has been solid for 1 year now without any issues or corrosion problems. The vehicle does pass free state inspection, which makes it entirely street legal. The engine is a VG30E but this system will work on a VG33E just as well. Here is a break-down of the system: Headers: Doug Thorley Short Tube Headers w/ 2.5" collector Mid-pipe: Home made from 3 45 degree 2.5" sections (304 stainless) Catalytic converter: Magnaflow High Flow in mirror finish and 2.5" Muffler: Flowmaster 50 Delta Flow in 2.5" (center in/center out) Tail-pipe: Home made from various 45 and 90 degree 2.5" sections (304 stainless) The piping was provided by Accel tube. Enjoy! Edited July 11, 2012 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Looks good, too quiet for me, Sounds a little tamer than the Borla muffler I had on my hardbody, no cat, 2.25" SS tailpipe . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 It sounds close to stock but with a more aggressive rumble. It will still manage to drone a little at speeds above 60 mph but that comes from the size of the pipe more than the muffler. I will post some acceleration videos soon and highway cruising videos. You really don't want anything louder than this on a VG otherwise it is way too raspy and annoying. I do a lot of night driving past 1 AM and don't want to be a douche to the people trying to sleep. I tried a couple of mufflers before this and the FM 50 DF is one I liked the most but that's a personal choice. The FM 60 DF I had before was pretty good too but the biggest one there is a 2.25" as it is targeted more toward 4 bangers. If I built a 2.25" system with Pacesetter headers, that would be the muffler I would go with instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Do a wide open low range video so I can compare it to my video. I had a flowmaster 50 series on my V8 dakota, came with the cat back system and I thought that one was too quiet too so I bought a 40 series sounded better and still not crazy loud. The dakota had the 4.7 V8 flowmaster 40 series with a single 3" tailpipe. But as you said it's personal choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 Will do! V8s have a special thing about them where they will sound great with anything and everything you strap on them. Heck even leave the muffler off and it sounds great. A V6 is a completely different story... It performs more like a 4 popper and only hits the right notes in certain RPMs. A 40 series on this engine is really raspy. I can't speak for everyone but I myself don't like it. The 40 just makes the truck sound like there is no muffler. Kingman had a 40 on his so he could chime in. I would not go any lower than Super 44. I'm not a fan of highway droning though so I got something more quiet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 I like how my pathy sounds with straight up headers but the torque lost BC of no back pressure sucked....now with cracked headers Its worse...I will hopefully be tigging those back together at work soon....Its a good sounding v6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 It sounds good open at idle for sure. It gets pretty unbearable driving though. You don't lose the torque from the lack of back pressure as long as the primary tubes and cross over pipe is there. The torque is lost from the ECU doing funny things with sensors when there is too much air flow. The oxygen sensor is sensing too much oxygen so you get a bad air/fuel map. I think if you just made a long pipe with the oxygen sensor in it, you would gain a good amount of power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 (edited) So here is me on a 5 gallon bucket after not driving my truck for 1.5 years...its throleys and no y pipe....under high revs flames hit the concrete...don't mind the dough nuts marks in the road, house struck by lightening or the burnout in the driveway lol... http://vid193.photobucket.com/albums/z48/unccpathfinder/Pathfinders/testdrive.mp4 Sounds like poop but I won about $200 in showing folks it had a Nissan 3.0 l under the hood Here's the first crank...my roommate told me fire so That's y there was the freak out...this was first crank with mpfi on my 87 after it sat... hence the couple celebratory hollars...straight pipe again no y pipe http://vid193.photobucket.com/albums/z48/unccpathfinder/Pathfinders/alive2.mp4 Edited July 12, 2012 by unccpathfinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 (edited) I wonder what flowmaster the Borla mufler I had would be comparable to? Here is my 87 hardbody with the Borla muffler, no cat and the 2.25" tailpipe, wide open in low range: Edited July 12, 2012 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 (edited) So here is me on a 5 gallon bucket after not driving my truck for 1.5 years...its throleys and no y pipe....under high revs flames hit the concrete...don't mind the dough nuts marks in the road, house struck by lightening or the burnout in the driveway lol... http://vid193.photob...s/testdrive.mp4 Sounds like poop but I won about $200 in showing folks it had a Nissan 3.0 l under the hood Here's the first crank...my roommate told me fire so That's y there was the freak out...this was first crank with mpfi on my 87 after it sat... hence the couple celebratory hollars...straight pipe again no y pipe http://vid193.photob...ders/alive2.mp4 Yeah that's it. Mine sounds just like that open. It's loud as hell but just driving around and not flooring it everywhere sounds like a broken muffler. [media=]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgn_QqqZ8dI[/media] I wonder what flowmaster the Borla mufler I had would be comparable to? Here is my 87 hardbody with the Borla muffler, no cat and the 2.25" tailpipe, wide open in low range: [media=] [/media] The 50 should sound exactly like this at WOT but with a little deeper tone. Edited July 12, 2012 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 Alright time for some pics of the whole thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 (edited) Design Theories 1. One piece component unit The mid-pipe, catalytic converter, and muffler section is a one piece welded unit attached to the collector with a heavy duty flange. This eliminates alignment issues between flanges and reduces the amount of possible leaks. Everything is centered together. It also makes the install easier as everything just slides into place. 2. Detachable tail-pipe The tail pipe is attached to the muffler with a lap joint band clamp and sealed with copper RTV. This allows the system to be easily taken apart and removed from under the vehicle. 3. Hitch protected exhaust The exhaust system is protected from collision damage by the rear hitch. The other alternative is to route the pipe directly through the rear bumper like a school bus. 4. Corrosion resistant stainless steel The system was built out of run of the mill 304 SS to minimize corrosion. So far it outlived a typical parts store system. There is almost no corrosion on any of the pipes. 5. Hanger locations My hanger setup utilizes the factory hanger locations to make things easier. 6. Hanger fail-safe design Should the hangers rust and fail, the catalytic converter heat shield will support the entire system on the cross-member when it drops down about 1/4 inch. 7. Placement of oxygen sensor The oxygen sensor is placed as close to the collector as possible for the best reading possible. Of course Nissan sensors are heated so this is negligible. 8. Straight(ish) pipe The goal was to create a system that was as straight as possible with the fewest amount of bends. The theory behind this is that bends slow down the exhaust gas and that reduces the heat scavenging effect. Edited July 12, 2012 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 The way your trailer hitch is attached scares me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 16, 2012 Author Share Posted July 16, 2012 Why? I haven't changed the way it is attached from the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted July 18, 2012 Share Posted July 18, 2012 They didn't weld the hitch to the frame at the factory, sorry to say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 18, 2012 Author Share Posted July 18, 2012 (edited) Mine is not welded. It's bolted in all factory locations, which are four bolts to the bottom of the frame and two bolts to the bumper mounts. It's hard to see from the surface rust, I know. The only shiny bolt that sticks out in the photo is from when I changed the bumper, I put the new mounts on all new stainless steel 1/2 inch bolts. Just some hardware I had around. Remember that the hitch is welded to a bracket and the bracket is bolted to the bottom of the frame with two bolts on each side. The bottom bolt on both of the bumper mounts attaches to the hitch while the upper two attach to the frame. On trucks without a hitch, the bottom bolt of the bumper mounts attaches to a non-hitch bracket on both sides. I don't know what happened to your hitch or why you think mine is welded but it was not changed a bit from the original design. I could easily go and unbolt the hitch right now if I wanted to. Edited July 18, 2012 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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