NissanNismoZ Posted March 21, 2011 Share Posted March 21, 2011 Okay, so i replaced oil with Castrol GTX oil, along with Purolator Classic oil filter.. i put fuel injector cleaner through it (not sure if its went through yet..put it in with just over quarter tank of gas..now right at quarter ytank) but..anyway. The lifters tick at idle (neighbor said it should go away after the new oil runs through it a bit.. and when going up a not too steep grade or acceleration..it hesitates..like it will bog down some before taking off. (remember it sat for a year before i got it) my CEL light is also on.. i can pull the battery cable and it wont come on until im driving it.. any ideas? Im wondering if it may be clogged fuel lines, clogged catalytic converter or..something else.. Thanks! (would spark plugs be an issue?) just throwing out some ideas.. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 I would check the codes and find out what it says. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehuntersam Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 what adamzan said, do an ecu test, if you don't know how look it up in the how area, or if you have a manual it's in there also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 (edited) Change fuel filter too. Difficulty up hills and overtaking people or achieving higher RPMs may be caused by a clogged fuel filter. Edited March 22, 2011 by Towncivilian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 will do.. i hooked up a scanner (one of the computerized snap on ones from the shop, and it said manual codes only.. Do these not have an OBD 2 connector? fuel filter.. arent those in the fuel tank? i think im going to try some seafoam in it.. it seems the more trips im making, the less its acting up, but i did get to where id pull it into 1st n run it at about 2500 RPMs just to get some fuel moving faster.. (yes its a backroad no one really ever travels on, so 15mph is fine on it..) im just trying to get it running right.. it also seems to idle right at 500-600 RPM.. (intake was removed to change injector) maybe my throttle cable is off too..not sure, but just thought i'd give more info.. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Fuel filter for WD21s are in the engine bay. Use some fuel injector cleaner (Techron, Gumout Regane, etc) instead of Seafoam. Vehicles 1996 and newer must have OBDII ports, anything earlier might or might not. WD21s do not. Read here for instructions on how to pull your codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trenton163 Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 I would check the fuel filter and definitely the cat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 The fuel filter is right by the power steering fluid reservoir. You can't miss it. Literally takes like 5 minutes to change, unless the hoses are really stuck to it. Make sure to pull the fuel pump fuse and run it till it stalls to depressurize the system. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 The fuel filter is right by the power steering fluid reservoir. You can't miss it. Literally takes like 5 minutes to change, unless the hoses are really stuck to it. Make sure to pull the fuel pump fuse and run it till it stalls to depressurize the system. wow..found it. that was easy.. truthfully, i never knew what that was for.. but thank you! Would it help if i recorded what it does as im going up a hill? i do realize there are other types of things it could be doing.. but yeah. im going to try (and let it win) and google to see how to make the engine light on the dash flash so i can get the code.. Thanks everyone, its really appreciated.. im just trying to get it running how it should so i can get to places without fretting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 okay..trying to understand this as best as i can.. my codes are: 23 Idle Switch (what is THIS?!) (does tie into my low idle problem, now that it mentions it) 45 Injector leak (..then again.. i did have to redo an injector.. if its the injector not being properly seated, i think i'm going to cry) 12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor (i DO have MAF sensor cleaner.. if that's whats wrong.. 34 Knock Sensor (may be from improperly seated injector plug causing it to think its knocking? (or because of my lifters ticking at idle) 51 Injector Circuit (may be tied into the injector leak, like plug not all the way in, thinking there's a leak?) and from this post, is where i got my info from..running a 1995 nissan pathfinder XE Thanks everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 I think the idle switch is part of the throttle position sensor? But I don't think the ECU actually uses the output for anything other than diagnostics. Talks about it in the FSM. MAF is a common problem that could explain your symptoms. Clean the sensor carefully and check the wiring (visually inspect and see if wiggling it does anything). Injector problems can be annoying. You could have leaking seals or a stuck injector etc. You could try the procedures in the FSM for some diagnosis, including unplugging injectors one at a time to see if each one is working (if you don't hear a change when you unplug one then that is bad) and pulling the distributor and rotating by hand to see if you hear an injector click at each 120 degrees. I might leave the knock sensor for now and see if the code goes away once you solve the rest of the stuff. It might be easier to just bypass it (with a resistor?) than deal with it as it is under the lower intake manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 yeah.. replacing just the ONE injector was a total pain.. as it was under the intake.. REALLY hoping i dont have to go through that again.. but.. if its gonig to help, i'll do it. im uploading a video and will post it to here so you guys can see how it acts.. i didnt get much of how it acts up a hill though. but just how it takes a second to get up to a stable idle.. and the idle, after pushing the gas a bit makes it idle really low.. like i said, will post the video ASAP. I visually inspected, as it was running to see if any of the injectors were leaking, but they all still continued to be dry as can be.. lower intake? if it comes to that i'm pretty sure i'd have to drop it off at a shop..but if its something i can fix (i'm learning! im still in school for this stuff, so i have limited knowledge of most of this.. and FSM.. do you mean Factory Service Manual, by that or something else? coz i dont have a copy of that on hand.. thanks once again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 Yeah FSM = factory service manual. I find having the paper copy handy, but you can download one from a link in the garage section somewhere. Highly recommended. I think if messing around with injectors is as bad as it gets, then you are pretty lucky My truck is sitting in a friends garage at the moment with the front diff on the floor, oil pan off, timing belt off, waiting for a new oil pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 (edited) here's the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kiews9g0ZQY yeah, that's true..but its being a pain! hopefulyl it will be worth all the time ive had to put in it..along with the time you guys ave given to me with helping it i just downloaded a copy in PDF format.. hopefully it can be useful! NOTICE at the end of the video it just starts sounding horrible.. Edited March 22, 2011 by NissanNismoZ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 I would start at the maf sensor, and if that tests good then the wiring at the connector, it is a known problem on these trucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 There's a TSB that might fix your code 45 problem. Basically it adds an additional ground wire to the MAF sensor. Though a recent thread about this has a couple members suggesting that this "fix" is unnecessary and fixing the existing wiring will do just the same. But since I've never had a WD21, wait for someone else to chime in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 you'll have to take the plenum and intake manifold off to get to the knock sensor since it is located on top of the engine block under the manifold. I did mine a while back...not hard if you are familiar with removal procedure of all that stuff. From what I understand, if the sensor is bad, the computer will allow the engine to run at a 'baseline' mode, kinda like safe-mode on a computer. It will run ok, but not at is peak performance...or something like that. (mine is a 1990 se) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 hopefully its just the MAF sensor.. I'll check into the MAF ground TSB idea.. Thanks for that! I dontthink the knock sensor is bad.. it acts like its not getting enough fuel or air.. or both.. but thanks for the suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 UPDATE: Unplugged the MAF sensor..and it idles at about 400-500RPM.. it idles just high enough to keep running.. so im guessing MAF sensor may be good? I dunno. it still has no power whatsoever. i take it up the hill and try to keep it at a steady 25mph and have to push it down really hard just to keep just over 20mph..like i said. it idles fine. and ive noticed, every time the lifters tick, the RPM goes down a little faster (like when im in park and revving to 2k RPM, when it ticks at the lower RPM, it causes it to go down a slight bit.) any ideas? maybe it just needs a tuneup..but im trying to see which i need first.. i know i need a battery, ASAP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 Have you changed the fuel filter yet? An el-cheapo filter is something like $7 and as long as you replace it yearly the cheapo filter will be fine. How old are the spark plugs, and what's the change interval for them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 Maybe your timing belt is off a tooth or 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted March 25, 2011 Author Share Posted March 25, 2011 Have you changed the fuel filter yet? An el-cheapo filter is something like $7 and as long as you replace it yearly the cheapo filter will be fine. How old are the spark plugs, and what's the change interval for them? no idea..but guess ill have to replace then..soon. ill check into replacing the fuel filter..no doubt. thanks. neighbor said the same thing about the timing belt..but not sure how to check it..dont you have to remove all belts and pulleys? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 Pop the AC tensioner bracket off and then remove the upper timing belt cover. See if the belt is loose and flappy (stretched) or cracked. If so stop running the engine and replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted March 25, 2011 Author Share Posted March 25, 2011 Pop the AC tensioner bracket off and then remove the upper timing belt cover. See if the belt is loose and flappy (stretched) or cracked. If so stop running the engine and replace it. oh. that sounds a lot better. i was worried id have to pull every pulley just to get to it. im just going to keep that bit of info handy for if i ever need it. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NissanNismoZ Posted March 26, 2011 Author Share Posted March 26, 2011 changed fuel filter..one stubborn hose turned a 15 minute job into a 2 hour job..it was stuck on there for some reason..anyways. it runs a lot better, even up the hill, but still has that..missing. sound to it going up a hill/under acceleration..only is does it a little less. i can now accelerate from 15 to 20mph up the hill though. a very noticable improvement..now to find out what ELSE is holding it back, no. i still havent checked the timing belt, but will soon. still, once again im worried my lifters have some part in this.. because like i said everytime it ticks after i let off the revving from 2k to idle, everytime it ticks, the RPM drops a little faster than it should.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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