Jump to content

Rear Seat Storage


OldSlowReliable
 Share

Recommended Posts

So looking at adamzan's new pics of his rust repair, it dawned on me...

 

If one was so inclined for a little extra storage space, could they cut out under the rear seats (probably about 10" from front to back total) and insert a box of sorts, weld it in, repairing the rust and creating a storage bin area for things like recovery straps, jacks, fluids, etc...

 

I can't easily go look under my truck, but if I'm not mistaken, the closest thing would probably be the driveshaft and/or parking cables in that area, which could easily be dealt with by separating the box into two sides with a portion of normal depth steel in the middle (also increasing rigidity) Mind you I have a 3" body lift..

 

 

 

This kinda just dawned on me...and it would add a fair bit of space, considering it would basically be enough room to devote it solely to the *safe and secure* relocation of most of the equipment I carry on the trail

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to let you know those repairs were not under the rear seats they were where the rear passengers feet go. I would advise everyone who lives in the rust belt to take all the carpet out and check there. All the seams were starting to rust so we cut it all out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to let you know those repairs were not under the rear seats they were where the rear passengers feet go. I would advise everyone who lives in the rust belt to take all the carpet out and check there. All the seams were starting to rust so we cut it all out.

Yeah, nevertheless, they got me thinking again!

 

Oddly enough, the rest of my floors are pristine (save for one corner of my fuel access hatch that has a rust hole)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is how bad my 88 was:

Underrearseathole.jpg

 

There is a void under there, but you have the exhaust running under the driver's side. I had the same thoughts, to put a deeper storage area there, but ended up just sheeting over the hole and putting a board over the top (removed the seats).

 

Where Adam fixed, mine was bad too (dark pic, but you can see both sides were bad about 12"x3"):

Rearfloorboardholes.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hate havin 50/50 seats. stuff is always strapped to the middle (currently baby seat) cause ppl don't wanna sit on the seam. this makes folding one seat to get to a would-be box difficult.

If I had 60/40 seats I would certainly consider making a compartment under the 40 side

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well I found out I can rent a plasma cutter for 44 bucks a day, or 100 a week.....not bad, meaning I would be making it out of 1/8" steel for rigidity, and making a \__/ shaped pan instead of I__I for the oem look.....and if I'm doing this fix, I may as well build a new rear bumper to match the front! :crossedwires:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just did a bunch of stuff out of 1/4" steel and 2" DOM .120 walls and used nothing but an angle grinder with 4" cut off wheels and a sawsall...just saying if you have those available you may not need to rent a plasma cutter b/c it's not gonna make the cleanest cuts...

 

Got my grinder from northern tool years ago for $8 and my sawsall is a ryobi and was like $30 i think from lowes and they're tools you can keep and use for a good time to come

Link to comment
Share on other sites

man it looks like your sockets are rusty too glad i live in cali lol jk :whistle:

Nah, they were just covered in dust. Only rusty tools I have are a couple cheap tools I left out in the rain one time....when I lived in Cali.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The plasma cutter would be because I'd have to buy a 4x8 sheet of 1/8" steel, and would rather tack on angle iron and run the plasma cutter down for a nice straight edge, than go through 5 4" disks and have a saw blade shape ;)

 

The plasma cutter would also be more useful for the bumper which I would be doing at the same time, as it would cut a well shaped receiver hole as well as for turn signals

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sometimes it is easier to just cut it smooth and straight with a disk, then cutting it quick with the plasma cuter and having to clean up the little waves with a grinder.

I'm willing to admit that I am shotty with a grinder....lol....i start off good, but then end up veering one way or the other and making a mess!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Then you'll probably be even worse with plasma :togo: .

It will probably be easier to do the thin stuff on the body with the disk lol, but if I need to cut a 60" straight edge, I trust my hand against a tacked on rail alot more than nothing

 

 

 

anyone else have any ideas/improvements?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...