pmccallister Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Bought my second rig this weekend. I dont have enough time to do the timing belt and water pump myself. Just wondering if anybody knows about what it should cost to have it done at a mechanic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 I think the last time I asked the dealer the price was somewhere between $600 -$800 , IIRC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 $70 in parts... the rest is labor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Yep, I've heard anywhere fom $500-800, mainly depending on the area. There are a few things that you may want to do at the same time (or at least have inspected). The cam seals, crank seals, thermostat and thermostat bypass hose. These all need the water pump/timing cover removed to access... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 I think the last time I asked the dealer the price was somewhere between $600 -$800 , IIRC well Dealers like to charge lots. Asuming you get a decent mechaninc who does the job in 4-6 hours at 75 bucks an hour $300-450. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Specv1973 Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 (edited) Nissan down here in Sunny SW Florida quoted me 600 plus parts when I was looking, but I'm so glad I did it myself. Wasn't nearly as hard or time consuming as I thought it would be, and I saved a BUNCH of moo la'. Edited November 5, 2010 by Specv1973 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 I know some guys who would charge $600 but they clean their way in and out as they go. Not allot of places care how their work LOOKS once finished, just as long as it works and the customer pays and drives away... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aranay Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 I've been chewing on doing this for a few days now as I bought my latest pathfinder this past spring and I have no service records at all. There is a tin-foil tag on the firewall written in japanese that looks like it's probably for the t-belt and if so, then it's current enough, but I really dont want to take the chance. I found a DIY sticky in the Garage section of the forum but its for a '99 3.3L. Are these the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Yes, there are only a few minor differences and those are even noted in the write up. The VG33 is the VG30's older brother... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aranay Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 excellent! thank you sir, I guess I've got a day of learning coming up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 Yes, there are only a few minor differences and those are even noted in the write up. The VG33 is the VG30's older brother... B You mean younger brother? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 No, you silly hillbilly, it's fine the first time!! excellent! thank you sir, I guess I've got a day of learning coming up Don't thank me, thank Derek, the Nissan/Infinity Mastermechanic who did the write up... Seriously, a lot of (us including me) have used it as a definitive guide. It's not too hard if you have a little experience and common sense and only requires a few tricks or special tools. The biggest thing is that if you think you have screwed something up or have a problem, STOP AND READ/ASK. We will help... Good Luck!! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 You know what, I can't remember if I tightened my t-belt tensioner nut when I put my engine back together. I haven't run it since I am still waiting for my lifters to arrive, but I guess now I need to take the front back apart to be sure. I'll time myself and see how long it takes I guess Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 How did you set and check the tension if you didn't tighten the nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 How did you set and check the tension if you didn't tighten the nut? It's somewhat tight for sure... just can't remember if I torqued it properly after I decided the tension was good. It doesn't really need to be all that tight to hold the tensioner in place just to check the tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 12, 2010 Share Posted November 12, 2010 Well it took me an hour and twenty minutes to take it apart, check the nut (which was already tight) and put it back together. I didn't refill the coolant though. Also the balancer was easy to just pull off by hand since it hasn't been on there long. Tips: -quarter inch ratchet with a spinner handle extension is nice for a lot of this stuff -impact wrench for the large crank bolt (you can buy an electric half-inch drive impact gun for under a hundred dollars) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitrohazelton Posted November 21, 2010 Share Posted November 21, 2010 Phil, Quit being a p***y and just pick up a handle of Rebel Yell, set aside a few hours and get down to wrenching Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LucidPathy91 Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Tips: -quarter inch ratchet with a spinner handle extension is nice for a lot of this stuff -impact wrench for the large crank bolt (you can buy an electric half-inch drive impact gun for under a hundred dollars) How many Ft./lbs are we talking about to get that bolt off? I am considering either buying a nice air wrench/compressor or just renting one for the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Well, it's supposed to be torqued to about 100 ft-lbs I think. However, my impact wrench is rated up to two hundred and something and it took several minutes of continuous impacting before it moved. Of course now it isn't rusted on anymore so it goes on and off easily... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 I have a guy that does really good work and is very inexpensive, before you go anywhere to have this done let me know and I will get a price from him for you. Just as a reference he swapped engines for me in my 94 PF and charged me $500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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