What Brake Pads / Rotors do you run?

[lint]

I found the "What oil do you run" thread by XSrcing really informative (thanks for that and all members who contributed) !

 

While sourcing out a new set of front and rear pads and rotors, I got a little overloaded with the choices out there! I thought that this topic would / could be helpful for some members.

 

The P.O. put in some kind of generic, standard semi-metallic pads. The rears wore out in 37,000 miles (60,000 km) and the fronts in less than that. Not good value in my books.

 

OEM is semi-metallic.

"Organic" brake pads usually contain asbestos (so I've heard).

Ceramic brakes aren't recommended for suv's. I read this somewhere lately, but think it is debatable.

High friction usually wear faster and emit more dust. Good for the track I guess.

 

Shimmed, chamfered and slotted pads are quieter to run.

 

Heard good things about Hawk LTS (light truck, suv) semi-metallic

Same of EBC 6000 series, 7000 series with kevlar

Any comments on Akebono? Axxis?

 

Cross drilled, or slotted or solid (vented) rotors?

 

I am inclined to go with a solid vented front rotor and solid vented rotor for the rear.

Maybe slotted vented in the front because I drive a lot in the wet. Maybe EBC all the way 'round is the way to go (I use their compounds on my bikes).

 

I use the the rig for back country dirt roads, bombing up to the ski hill, and towing a trailer with a couple of vintage '60's Lambretta scooters (1500 lbs total) over the mountain ranges.

 

Your opinions are appreciated! Thanks!!

Edited October 20, 2010 by lint

[MY1PATH]

I fail to see why you would need vented only in the rear. Even when towing (and 1500 aint much) a majority of braking forces move to the front.

 

I like the EBC greenstuff pads but I have only used OEM rotors. The Blue bads that have nissan stamped on the back of them work pretty well too, I have those in the rear.

You should check out frozen rotors; powerslot rotors or their own signerature slotted rotor if you want really good rotors that last a long time.

[lint]

Oops, my bad! I meant: solid & VENTED front and solid vented rear. My rotor in the front is warped, and a rear one is super nasty.

 

Change to post was made

 

 

 

Good thread for the owners out there considering slotted vrs drilled rotors.

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20306&st=0

Edited October 19, 2010 by lint

[adamzan]

I have slotted rotors and ceramic pads and I noticed a big difference in how the truck brakes, especially when towing. I put them on just before my 17k road trip across North america this summer. There was very little brake dust and no brake fade in the mountains. I have drums in the rear so I can't comment on rear discs though.

[5523Pathfinder]

Just put Hawk LTS pads on my rig. Found the first few days, they would squeak the first or second time stopping. Now, they dont do it at all. But, when I hit the brakes(I do often, thanks I-5), hang on! They grab very well in my opinion. I am still running stock rotors too(machined of course).

[Specv1973]

I went with RayBesto's Professional Grade rotors all the way around and RayBesto's Service Grade semi-metallic all around. Only have about 1000 miles or so on them right now, but they stop way better, especially in the rain, than whatever was on it before and no problems overall yet. I got them from Rockauto.

[porsche4786]

I run Hawk HPS pads on my RX-7 with slotted rotors and braided lines, they are fantastic. And the 4 piston front calipers sure help. I used the EBC "green stuff" before the Hawk pads. The EBC work great too. Glad I found this post today. I've been getting a squeaking noise from the front drivers side and I think it's either rotors or calipers causing this (or both). I got the Hawk HPS on clearance for like $13 or something crazy for the pathfinder and they have been sitting in the back of the truck for about 8 months (front disc only). I think I paid something like $120 for the rx-7 for all 8 pads, so I think I got a great deal for the pathfinder pads. By the way, just checked ebay, and there is a set of front HPS for $13 free shipping.

[OldSlowReliable]

I just did front rotors/pads on my 98 malibu, and will be doing my pathfinder's front disc (and attempting rear drums) on thanksgiving break... the malibu had a factory issue with calipers, and destroyed the rotors/pads, so I had to replace them completely.

 

I used the cheapest rotors w/a 1 year warranty from Autozone, and got their duralast gold ceramic pads for $50 for the entire front end. These come with a lifetime warranty. I have noticed somewhat of a soft pedal, but its probably just a matter of getting used to bad brakes.. Other than that, they are SILENT, brake very smooth, grab AWESOME, and will make the tires howl if you so desire while breaking. I'm not so impressed by the rotors, they look ****** (easily flash-rust) but work just fine. For $100 out the door, I'm very happy..and considering my truck gets 3k miles a year if its LUCKY, and won't be getting more than 1 or 2k for atleast 3 or 4 years... I'm not too worried about getting less-than-invincible brake components (i.e. 100k mile pads/rotors type of thing)

[frozenrotors]

I found the "What oil do you run" thread by XSrcing really informative (thanks for that and all members who contributed) !

 

While sourcing out a new set of front and rear pads and rotors, I got a little overloaded with the choices out there! I thought that this topic would / could be helpful for some members.

 

The P.O. put in some kind of generic, standard semi-metallic pads. The rears wore out in 37,000 miles (60,000 km) and the fronts in less than that. Not good value in my books.

 

OEM is semi-metallic.

"Organic" brake pads usually contain asbestos (so I've heard).

Ceramic brakes aren't recommended for suv's. I read this somewhere lately, but think it is debatable.

High friction usually wear faster and emit more dust. Good for the track I guess.

 

Shimmed, chamfered and slotted pads are quieter to run.

 

Heard good things about Hawk LTS (light truck, suv) semi-metallic

Same of EBC 6000 series, 7000 series with kevlar

Any comments on Akebono? Axxis?

 

Cross drilled, or slotted or solid (vented) rotors?

 

I am inclined to go with a solid vented front rotor and solid vented rotor for the rear.

Maybe slotted vented in the front because I drive a lot in the wet. Maybe EBC all the way 'round is the way to go (I use their compounds on my bikes).

 

I use the the rig for back country dirt roads, bombing up to the ski hill, and towing a trailer with a couple of vintage '60's Lambretta scooters (1500 lbs total) over the mountain ranges.

 

Your opinions are appreciated! Thanks!!

 

Hello Lint,

 

In regards to your posting above, I can offer you some feed back on pads and rotors. You can also find a whole host of information on the web site. www.frozenrotors.com.

 

My personal vehicle is a 1989 Pathfinder SE. I just installed a set of Hawk LTS pads on the front and rears with "frozen rotors" The difference in pads was remarkable! Based on what your describing and the way you use the truck. I'd go with the slotted frozen rotors. Especially, since you drive a lot in wet weather. You will experience much better brake 'bite' with a slotted rotor, due to the slotting, actually channeling water off of the rotor face. i.e. immediate pad contact with the rotor face! If you want to read some real testimony on this set up, hop on over to My link, and read what some of the Titan owner have said after doing this set up. Your rotors will last at least 100% longer than stock. You should either eliminate or greatly reduce any 'brake pedal pulsing and steering wheel shake' the pads will definitely put some stopping power in your rig.

If you fell slotting isn't for you, than you can also go with a non-slotted rotor as well. Most people that have made the switch, wind up replacing more pads, than rotors over the ownership of the vehicle. This is alot less expensive, than having to do both every 2-5k miles.

If you contact me direct, and purchase both the pads and rotors, I can offer you a 10% discount. That offer is valid for all others on this site as well. Our normal promo is 15% off 2 axle sets of pads and rotors. Or 10% off 1 axle set,of pads and rotors. (1 axle set= 2 front or 2 rear rotors and/ or pads).

 

Give me a call, or email me, if you have any questions.

 

Keith

My link

 

1-888-323-8456

Edited November 9, 2010 by frozenrotors

[silverton]

I do NOT recommend the 20$ pads from AutoZone. hahaha.

 

But desperate times call for desperate measures!

[adamzan]

I just did front rotors/pads on my 98 malibu, and will be doing my pathfinder's front disc (and attempting rear drums) on thanksgiving break... the malibu had a factory issue with calipers, and destroyed the rotors/pads, so I had to replace them completely.

 

I used the cheapest rotors w/a 1 year warranty from Autozone, and got their duralast gold ceramic pads for $50 for the entire front end. These come with a lifetime warranty. I have noticed somewhat of a soft pedal, but its probably just a matter of getting used to bad brakes.. Other than that, they are SILENT, brake very smooth, grab AWESOME, and will make the tires howl if you so desire while breaking. I'm not so impressed by the rotors, they look ****** (easily flash-rust) but work just fine. For $100 out the door, I'm very happy..and considering my truck gets 3k miles a year if its LUCKY, and won't be getting more than 1 or 2k for atleast 3 or 4 years... I'm not too worried about getting less-than-invincible brake components (i.e. 100k mile pads/rotors type of thing)

When you do the rear drums (it's not hard, I figured it out in minutes), make sure you put anti seize on the adjuster threads and where it slides into the other part of the adjuster. It only takes a a few seconds to do and will make adjusting the drums 10x easier.

 

Also a tip I learned on here, do one side at a time that way you have one as a reference.

[Specv1973]

Also don't forget new inner and outer grease seals and to repack your bearings along with lubing the slide pins on the caliper etc. if you want to do a complete job. I also would get new pad retainers if they've never been changed. Can make the difference between a little squeak and no squeak sometimes after a complete brake job. Just my opinion.

[adamzan]

I think most pad sets come with new pad retainers? You mean those little metal clip like things? At least mine have always.

 

Also there is only a front inner grease seal, the hub o ring seals the other side. Unless my pathy is missing something!

 

Just saying in case he tries to hunt for parts that don't exist!

[JamesRich]

I haven't changed the brakes on my pathfinder yet but the slotted frozen rotors and hawk pads made a huge difference on my Titan. This combo stops so much better that before I got used to it the pedal felt spongy. Then I realized that it felt soft because I wasn't pushing it as hard as I used to to get the same braking force. When the rear need changing I'm ordering another set from frozen rotors. Same for when the pathy needs front brakes.

James

[Kingman]

I have drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads from R1 that I got for as cheap as what I could get for the good-quality plain-jane parts at an auto store. They work well enough to send the rear passenger up front and choke the crap out of me or the front passenger, until the tires lock of course. I haven't noticed any fade from them, and there's a long windy steep hill going up to a local wheelin' hole. The old pads and rotors faded pretty quick and by the time most people get to the bottom it's hard to stop. After I put the new set on, no fade with plenty of power to stop by the time I hit the bottom. I also run DOT4 brake fluid instead of DOT3 which helps a lot with fade and spongy pedals over time. Towing feels much better too, more power to stop and easier to gauge.

[nismothunder]

the cheapys and supertech brake fluid,anything more for a 15 year old truck is flattory.