sewebster Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 I pulled my engine without removing the transmission, as this is what it said to do in the Hanes manual. My FSM has since arrived and it says to remove the transmission before pulling the engine? Any thoughts on whether I should take it off before reinstalling the engine? It would likely be easier to get the spline to engage by reinstalling the transmission afterwards, but then I need to take it off. I guess I should get down to reading the manual to see how much work it is... of course I don't have a transmission jack, so I'd have to rig something up or buy something, maybe an adapter for my floor jack. I really don't have room to store a transmission jack unfortunately or else I might just buy one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 I've always pulled and installed the engine and transmission mated. It just makes the whole thing easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 I've always pulled and installed the engine and transmission mated. It just makes the whole thing easier. The manual transmission? Seems pretty long to pull out as a unit, not to mention requiring some pretty intense acrobatics with everything on the hoist? Hmm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverPath Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 You can do it either way, Ive done it both ways depending on what I was doing. Reinstalling the engine with the tranny already in the car is fairly easy. Up to you on how you want to do it. I would just keep the tranny mounted in the truck where its at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 I've always pulled and installed the engine and transmission mated. It just makes the whole thing easier. You have done this on a WD21?? Without cutting out the radiator support?? What I would do is unbolt the tranny mount, drive shafts and cross member and just slide the tranny back 6" (may not even have to unhook the wires). That should give you enough clearance so the engine goes in easier and wiggle room to get the splines together without dropping the T-bars, etc. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 You have done this on a WD21?? Without cutting out the radiator support?? :scratchhead good point, I've done this on an 85 supra, 91 supra, and a couple mid 90s escorts. I guess engine+trans+transfercase would be pretty difficult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 What I would do is unbolt the tranny mount, drive shafts and cross member and just slide the tranny back 6" (may not even have to unhook the wires). That should give you enough clearance so the engine goes in easier and wiggle room to get the splines together without dropping the T-bars, etc. T-bars are already dropped (too bad I forgot to mark their positions before disconnection). Yeah, I guess if I do decide I want to move the transmission at all I can just do what you say... so this doesn't need a jack because everything stays supported? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 you have to remove the crossover pipe and the torsion bars and drop the transmission with the tcase Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Go buy a 4x4 Post and cut it into some smaller sections to use as bracing at the very least. I'm sure you've thought of that but just a reminder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted October 5, 2010 Author Share Posted October 5, 2010 Go buy a 4x4 Post and cut it into some smaller sections to use as bracing at the very least. I'm sure you've thought of that but just a reminder. Yeah, got tons of wood around. Thanks guys, I think this gives me some ideas on my options. I'll get it back in there, hopefully this weekend! Starting it up is a little scary though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 T-bars are already dropped (too bad I forgot to mark their positions before disconnection). Yeah, I guess if I do decide I want to move the transmission at all I can just do what you say... so this doesn't need a jack because everything stays supported? Depends exactly how you do it. You can always brace it as Dowser suggests, but if you already dropped the t bars, you may as well lower the tranny back and down if you need the room. Be careful though, these trannys are heavy and have a transfer case on one side that makes the weight lopsided. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 You have done this on a WD21?? Without cutting out the radiator support?? i thought the top and center piece unbolt? I know the center does... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 I've always pulled and installed the engine and transmission mated. It just makes the whole thing easier. Every d21 I yanked as 1 assembly was fortunatly only getting the driveline removed as I had to cut the top of tha rad support to clear motor/trans(and transfercase on the 4x4s obviously) ones that stayed on the road afterwards went in one piece at a time to avoid unnesecary cutting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 You can drop the engine in without removing the trans if the front axle is removed (at least that's how mine went back in). Just unbolt the mount and slide a jack under the trans. That way you can move it up a little and the engine won't bind on the motor mounts during installation. Then put your engine on the hoist at about a 5 degree angle to the rear and you should be able to slide them together without much drama. I did the whole operation by myself and I'm not good at anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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