How To - Front brakes and CV axles

[5523Pathfinder]

(There are other brake and CV threads, but none had pics. So, I thought I would post up my own)

 

Well, my Pathfinder had not had new brake pads installed since I got it. I did notice after a month of owning him, the rotors felt warped. I machined them years ago and let it be. Fast forward 6-7 years and I noticed play in the wheel bearings and the brakes would squeak from time to time. Plus, running up and down I-5 has glazed my rotors, and stopping power was not that great. I looked and found I needed new CV boots on both sides(gotta love being lifted), so went ahead and replaced them also. Ok, are you ready to do it yourself? Here you go!

 

First, get your tools! Sockets, ratches, Phillip and Straight screwdrivers, snap ring pliers, pliers, dikes,Alan wrenches or sockets, extensions, prybar, rags, grease(both for bearings and brakes), brake clean and paitences.

 

Second, lets be safe and get the front end up on jackstands. You may need a jack to lift up on the lower control arm later on. If you are lifted(or not), I highly recommend lowering the Torsion bars to take tension off of the front end, as you will be removing parts. Here is a picture of your torsion bar adjusters...

 

 

You will need to measure before you being unloading. Take any point of reference at the bolt, A-arm, fender, whatever works for you. When you reassemble, you will need to make everything match as before you took it apart.

 

Clean the threads on the adjuster bolt, then loosen locknut(1.). You can spin it up near the top, no need to remove. Back off adjuster nut (2.) and run it up until tension is released(you can also hold 2, and spin 3 if you choose).

 

Now, remove the wheel and inpsect everything for a game plan...

 

Remove the caliper (two 14mm bolts, this may vary), then remove the Torque member(what the caliper attaches to, two 19mm bolts). Inspect the slide bolts on the member and make sure they are not stuck. You can work them out with a vise or Vise-grips, but you may need a new one if they are really bad.

 

Remove your hubs. Im running Warn hubs, you may have stock. Unbolt the factory hubs(auto or manual) and set aside. Clean any grease and then remove snap ring...

 

Once the snap ring is off, you can remove the rest of the hub, if applicable. Now for the hub locknut and keeper. There are two screws holding the keeper to the nut, remove them and set aside. They are small, so dont loose them. Remove the keeper with a small magnet if you have one, or a small screwdriver may do the trick...

 

Getting the hub nut off may be as simple as sticking a small screwdriver in the bigger hole, and turing counterclockwise. Turn until it falls into your other hand. Now you can grab the rotor and hub assembly and pull towards you. This will pop the front bearing out, be ready to catch it. Set the assembly aside, and this is what you should have...

Clean the old grease off the spindle and be carefull of the threads. Damage them and you will not be happy.

 

If you are not doing axles, you can repack your bearings from here, and reassemlbe. I have pictures for this further down in this writeup.

 

Now, you need to remove the spindle assemlby. You need to remove the tie-rod from the spindle. Remove the cotter pin, and back off the nut almost all of the way off. Grab a hammer and smack the spindle until the tie-rod pops loose. You can use a puller tool if you have one. Once loose, remove nut and seperate from spindle...

 

You will then need to remove the upper and lower balljoints. As a precaution, use that floorjack to support the lower control arm. Each have a nut and cotter pin on them just as the tie-rod. I would do the top first, then the bottom. I got away with taking the bolts out of the upper balljoint(4), but you may have to remove the nut(give is a smack. The bottom is the same, but I removed the nut(27mm) and gave it a smack. From here, tilt the spindle towards you, then drop it down to release the lower balljoint. Now you should have something like this....

 

You should still have the lower control arm supported. Remove the 17mm bolt from the lower shock mount. Pull the shock towards you and move it just to the side(you can remove the shock completly if you choose). Remove the bolts holding the CV onto your front differential. There are some differences here. Some of the bolts are 6 pointed, some like mine are 12 pointed(hopefully you read this first and checked). With the bolts removed, pull the entire axle toward you, moving around the shock, and its out!

Edited September 28, 2010 by 5523Pathfinder

[5523Pathfinder]

Here you can see how bad mine were...

 

Grab your new axle and match them up. On some axles, you may need to move some parts from the old, to the new. Do so now. Here is the old and the new next to each other...

 

Slide your new axles in and begin to bolt up. I recommend you start each bolt first before tightening. This will keep the sxle from getting cockeyed. Oh, if you need to hold the diff side in place, grab a prybar and you should be able to sneak it in a hold one of the ears on the stubb axle. Tighten down your bolts as needed, reinstall your shock, and lift the spindle assemlby into place. Be sure to get the lower balljoint in, then the axle. Put the nut on, then get your upper balljoint installed. Tighten everything down and reinstall the tie-rod end. Be sure to use new cotter pins after you tighten everything!

 

Ok, now for bearings. Remove the grease seal from the back of the hub. Throw it away. Clean all of the old grease from your bearings. A parts washing tub would be great, but some rags, and brake clean will work. You are ready to pack your bearings full of grease. There are many ways to do this, but the simplest way is you put grease in your hand, and push the bearing down into it. Rotate and repeat. Make sure grease is coming out the other side of the race..

 

If you can get your hands on a bearing packer, it will quicken the job some(these are available at most parts stores)..

 

Clean your hub of the old grease as needed. You can leave the grease that is in the middle of the hub(between the races), unless its nasty. Be sure to put some back! If you need to change the rotor or have it machined, now is the time to do it. Remove the 14mm bolts holding the rotor to the hub. Most parts stores offer machining or go to your local brake shop and have them turned. Clean your new rotor if you are replacing and reassemble. Drop in your inner bearing and tap in a new grease seal(I push in a little extra grease around the edges of the bearing before I tap in the seal).

 

Slide your hub assemlby onto the spindle, and push. The inner bearing should sit all the way back. Grab your outer bearing(you grease it, right?) and push onto spindle. Push back as far as you can. It should slide on fairly easy if the hub is not tilted. If it get stuck, pull the hub toward you and till will release the outer bearing and start over.

 

*Ok, some interesting thing are going to be pointed out here. You dont have to agree with them, Im just showing one way!!*

 

If your bearing will just not push into the hub, grab a brass drift or similar(dont use metal as it may damage the bearing). You can lightly tap the bearing in. Do so in either a circular pattern, or back and fourth from side to side. The bearing will go in quite a way and you should not have to tap very hard.

 

Once the bearing is in, put the spindle locknut on and twist in(clockwise). You should be able to see several threads showing on the spindle once you are seated. There is a tool for this, but most likely, you will not have one or will be able to get one(fashion your own if you want to). I take my phillip screwdriver and turn the locknut, and at the same time spin the rotor in the opposite direction. Do this until you can go any further..

 

Now, grap the keeper ring and set it up to the locknut. Holes on the keeper should line up with the small holes on the lock nut. I rotate the locknut clockwise until the next hole is visable. Be sure to spin the rotor to prevent binding...

 

All of the holes should be aligned...

 

You can now reinstall the small screws you didnt loose from eariler..

Edited September 28, 2010 by 5523Pathfinder

[5523Pathfinder]

Now you can reinstall your spap-ring, hubs, torque member, and new pads. Be sure to lubricate the back of the pads, as well as the ends. Swap the shims over from your old pads, and install your pads onto your torque member...

 

You need to collapse the caliper pistons to fit over the new pads. This can be done with a pistion compressor, a couple pairs of pliers, C clamps, whatever works for you(Heck, I have collapsed them by using a prybar, pushing on the old pads before I removed them). Install the caliper and tighten everyting down.

 

Now, do the other side!!!

 

You should now be all back together. Double check everything to make sure you tightened it. If thats all good, go step on the brake pedal a few times. It should now feel somewhat stiff. You can now readjust your torsion bars back to where you orginally measured. Put the wheels back on and remove the jack stands. Put it down on the ground and doublecheck your ride height. Adjust now if needed.

 

I recommend you go drive your rig and "burn in" the new pads and rotors. Get up to 30-50Mph and lay on the brakes with constant pressure, almost coming to a stop. Speed back up and perform again two more times. Now just drive your rig and let the brakes cool. If everything feels good, go home and drink that victory beer!!!

 

(ok, I borrowed a camera for the pictures. I did not know they would turn out quite so grainy. I will shoot some different ones when I can. sorry.)

Edited September 28, 2010 by 5523Pathfinder

[5523Pathfinder]

I would highly recommend you read the entire thread before doing this. Hopefully this will help the person who does not always work on thier rig. If you have any questions or comments, post 'em up or PM me. Hope this helps someone!

 

Derek

[adamzan]

Great write up. I just did my bearings this weekend and experienced some trouble with the aftermarket inner grease seal. It doesn't have the part that stops it from going in further so I just tapped it in all the way as far as it could go and it was like 1mm into the hub. It seems to be OK. It was from National.

 

Also for anyone who wants the bearing locknut tool you can get it for a great price from here. No need to spend more on a gm one and modify it.

 

http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4170.htm

Edited September 28, 2010 by adamzan

[unccpathfinder]

I've never loosened the T bars to do this job but did put it on jackstands and used a jack to move the LCA up and down as required...not sure of the FSM steps but I hate doing my Tbars and I've seen too many of the adjuster bolts strip over time and just prefer not to touch them if i can avoid it

[5523Pathfinder]

Yeah, just trying to keep the noobs from hurting themselves! It can be done either way. On stock rigs I never loosen the torsion bolts, but I have the stuff laying around to do it safely. I dont want to hear about anyone getting hurt.

[unccpathfinder]

I hear ya...Good write-up and great pix...I always get elbow deep in it and forget to continue take pictures...I do things safely but a lot of people wouldnt call them safe...I've only had one semi-major oops and luckly i kept my pinky although i was safe all day long the first time i wasnt and used my bare hands the axle came out and whap right on my hand.

[maikan]

How do you collapse the caliper piston ?

 

I did change my disc brakes last week but I let my pads on the caliper

and just slide the assembly back onto the disc.

 

Should have I done the collapsed piston caliper thing ?

[5523Pathfinder]

IF you were installing new pads, you would need to collapse the pistons. Otherwise, the caliper would not fit back over the pads and rotor. There are many ways to do this. There are tools made specifically for this, and in some cases, dont cost a whole lot to buy. The way many people do it is to use a large pair of adjustable pliers and squeeze the piston back into the caliper. There is another way, but tougher. You can push on the brake pads while they are still in the caliper. Take a large screwdriver and go through the opening in the caliper(do not unbolt the caliper). You now can push on the pad toward the caliper pistons. Once they have moved a little, then you can put your pry tool inbetween the rotor and the pad and continue to push the pad over and collapse the piston.

 

Any other questions, let me know!

[unccpathfinder]

How do you collapse the caliper piston ?

 

I did change my disc brakes last week but I let my pads on the caliper

and just slide the assembly back onto the disc.

 

Should have I done the collapsed piston caliper thing ?

 

 

6" C clamp works great...they're like $4 at harbor freight....just make sure u don't push one piston out while u push one in

[SilverPath]

Great Write up Derek also

 

x2 on the C-clamp, I usually leave the old pad on the pistons and squeeze down on it, to make sure both pistons go in at the same time.

[unccpathfinder]

Also note if u have topped off the fluid...the reservoir can overflow when u push the pistons back in

[blackspawn]

I went to get an alignment today but was told that I have alot of play(up & down) movement in both front wheels; after the examination on the frontend I ended up needing inner and outer bearings and upper and lower ball joints on both sides!!!! $640.00 wow; I didn't pay that, so im going to do it on my on. Does this seems right or our they taking me for a ride? If I need to change these things, do I need to pull the driveshaft to remove to balljoints top and bottom?

[Dowser]

You don't have to take the half shaft right off the diff but you will have to take it out of the steering knuckle. Take the Tie Rod off at the knuckle to make it easier and some take the lower shock bolt off to give a little more room. Really you should just go and download the FSM so you can see the step by step procedure and can feel more confident and safe while doing it. When taking the old Inner Bearing Cup out, use either a Brass Drift, or a piece of a wooden broom stick handle. Tap on alternating sides until it goes out. Getting the new one in though it has to go in STRAIGHT. Don't try to put it in on one side then on the other etc.

 

And to test if they are taking you for a ride or not you can jack up your front end from under the LCA since the vehicle needs to be tested under load. It doesnt have to be high off the ground. an inch is fine. The take one hand on top of the tire in the 12:00 position, the other at the bottom at the 6:00 position, then Push in at the top while pulling out at the bottom, then push in at the bottom and pull out at the top. You're looking for ANY play. There shouldn't be any. If there is then your Ball joints are worn. As for wheel bearings, Give them a visual and determine yourself. Clean them well in a parts cleaner or varsol and make sure you get all the grease and grime out of it. There should be nothing but beautiful smooth surface on the rollers and the Cup, check the Cage that holds the Rollers for any damage as well. If you aren't sure when you get them out if they are ok or not, post them with GOOD quality photo's and we can let you know.

 

Good luck.

Edited October 5, 2010 by Dowser

[blackspawn]

You don't have to take the half shaft right off the diff but you will have to take it out of the steering knuckle. Take the Tie Rod off at the knuckle to make it easier and some take the lower shock bolt off to give a little more room. Really you should just go and download the FSM so you can see the step by step procedure and can feel more confident and safe while doing it. When taking the old Inner Bearing Cup out, use either a Brass Drift, or a piece of a wooden broom stick handle. Tap on alternating sides until it goes out. Getting the new one in though it has to go in STRAIGHT. Don't try to put it in on one side then on the other etc.

 

And to test if they are taking you for a ride or not you can jack up your front end from under the LCA since the vehicle needs to be tested under load. It doesnt have to be high off the ground. an inch is fine. The take one hand on top of the tire in the 12:00 position, the other at the bottom at the 6:00 position, then Push in at the top while pulling out at the bottom, then push in at the bottom and pull out at the top. You're looking for ANY play. There shouldn't be any. If there is then your Ball joints are worn. As for wheel bearings, Give them a visual and determine yourself. Clean them well in a parts cleaner or varsol and make sure you get all the grease and grime out of it. There should be nothing but beautiful smooth surface on the rollers and the Cup, check the Cage that holds the Rollers for any damage as well. If you aren't sure when you get them out if they are ok or not, post them with GOOD quality photo's and we can let you know.

 

Good luck.

thank you very much!...

[Specv1973]

Great write up! Could have used this a few weeks ago being a newb and all and doing this myself for the first time. But it looks like I did it all pretty much right. I also had help from other members on here. Thanks guys...

[adamzan]

I went to get an alignment today but was told that I have alot of play(up & down) movement in both front wheels; after the examination on the frontend I ended up needing inner and outer bearings and upper and lower ball joints on both sides!!!! $640.00 wow; I didn't pay that, so im going to do it on my on. Does this seems right or our they taking me for a ride? If I need to change these things, do I need to pull the driveshaft to remove to balljoints top and bottom?

 

 

You don't have to take the half shaft right off the diff but you will have to take it out of the steering knuckle. Take the Tie Rod off at the knuckle to make it easier and some take the lower shock bolt off to give a little more room. Really you should just go and download the FSM so you can see the step by step procedure and can feel more confident and safe while doing it. When taking the old Inner Bearing Cup out, use either a Brass Drift, or a piece of a wooden broom stick handle. Tap on alternating sides until it goes out. Getting the new one in though it has to go in STRAIGHT. Don't try to put it in on one side then on the other etc.

 

And to test if they are taking you for a ride or not you can jack up your front end from under the LCA since the vehicle needs to be tested under load. It doesnt have to be high off the ground. an inch is fine. The take one hand on top of the tire in the 12:00 position, the other at the bottom at the 6:00 position, then Push in at the top while pulling out at the bottom, then push in at the bottom and pull out at the top. You're looking for ANY play. There shouldn't be any. If there is then your Ball joints are worn. As for wheel bearings, Give them a visual and determine yourself. Clean them well in a parts cleaner or varsol and make sure you get all the grease and grime out of it. There should be nothing but beautiful smooth surface on the rollers and the Cup, check the Cage that holds the Rollers for any damage as well. If you aren't sure when you get them out if they are ok or not, post them with GOOD quality photo's and we can let you know.

 

Good luck.

Actually to do the ball joints you don't have to touch the half shaft at all there is more than enough room to get them out. For the bearings, I just did my drivers side after thinking it was gone (turned out to be tires) and it is very easy to do. I would inspect/clean them and if they are good repack and re install. To install the new race evenly I took the old one and put it on top and tapped evenly all around. If you remove the inner bearing you need to remove the grease seal and like it says in this how-to, get a new one. I was gonna re use the old one but they are cheap so just buy a new one.

[blackspawn]

What a time frame doing top and bottom ball joints roughly?...This is my main transportation and im just trying to plan everything right so I can get it back on the road to go to work in...

[adamzan]

I would start on a Saturday. Give yourself a few hours just in case you run into seized bolts or something.

[blackspawn]

I would start on a Saturday. Give yourself a few hours just in case you run into seized bolts or something.

thanks...