AceFrehley03 Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 Hey all, I've been lurking for a little while but it feels about time that I actually say something. My wife has a '99 QX4 with 118K on the clock (still cherry, though) which is officially in need of a complete set of belts. I was going to go through and replace the timing belt (with a new tensioner,) a/c belt, power steering belt, and fan/alternator belt, thermostat since I'll be in there and probably the cam seals as well. I was wondering about the idler pulley, should I replace that while I'm in there as well? It looks like it'll be a bear to get out on its own should it fail some other time. Do these go T.U. often? Also, anybody have any experience with Gates belts? Thanks for the help! -Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manifesto Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 I always do the tensioner same time as the belt, regardless of condition. I'd go ahead and do the waterpump and thermostat while you're in there too. Not 100% required, but you might as well since it's all apart and could save you a lot of grief in the future. Also for belts (especially the timing belt), I recommend only Nissan belts. If you haven't seen them, there's some threads with step by step instructions to do it all on here Hope it helps, cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manifesto Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 (edited) Check out this thread, it is written by a Nissan/Infinity mechanic. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12828 Here is another very detailed one. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23280&st=0&p=416969&hl=timing&fromsearch=1entry416969 *stole this post from Precise1 in another thread* Edited September 23, 2010 by Manifesto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 LOL I noticed that... Thanks for passing it along. Alkorahil (aka Rob Lacy) works at a on line Nissan dealership and can get you good enough prices for factory parts (like belts) that it's not worth getting something iffy from Kragens or where ever. Look in the Services section... When I recently changed the timing belt I also changed the tensioner, cam seals, crank seal, thermostat, bypass hose, water pump, fan clutch, all accessory belts and the upper and lower radiator hoses. Overkill?? Maybe but it was about $400 in parts and everything on the front of the engine is new and should last until the next timing belt change in 100k miles, no to mention I have spares for everything now also. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manifesto Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 I had to buy a whole new motor after a faulty belt let go in mine and pooched the heads! (after rebuilding half the motor and firing it up, it was discovered that a cradle for one of the camshafts cracked -_- snapped T-Belts are a PAIN in these motors, dont take any chances!!) As soon as my new motor arrives on my door step from Toronto I'll be replacing everything Precise1 just mentioned (I have Rob Lacy's contact info around here somewhere I'll have to dig it up... I'm going to need to order some parts pretty quick myself) xD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wood6078 Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 (edited) I'm not gonna knock factory parts in any way...honestly, they are probably the best thing you can get. But personally, I work for O'Reilly auto parts and as such get an awesome discount on parts, it doesn't make economic sense for me to get the top factory parts. I can tell you that mine has all Gates belts and hoses, and that they are among the best when it comes to aftermarket parts. Just like B said, you might as well replace everything while you're in there. Don't be like me and put t-belt, tensioner, t-stat, and hoses in. Do the water pump and seals as well. Just had to tear back into mine to replace a pouring front seal and leaky water pump. Also, don't pay attention to chiltons or whoever on the crank seal (FYI, if you go aftermarket, the fel-pro crank seal set I got had the wrong seal for the VG30), you don't have to remove the pan. Just run a screw into it and pull it out. New one pressed in by hand, mostly. And lastly, double-check your timing before buttoning it all back up. I can tell you from what I did last night that you will want to fill it full of bulletholes if you're filling up the radiator and then figure out you screwed up.... Damn, I ramble way too much. Edited September 23, 2010 by wood6078 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceFrehley03 Posted September 23, 2010 Author Share Posted September 23, 2010 Wow, quick replies. Thanks everyone. I already rounded up the parts, I went Gates on all of the belts as I've had good luck with them in the past and they are pretty well trusted. I am going to replace the timing belt tensioner, I was wondering about the actual idler pulley on the front of the engine. I will replace the water pump and thermostat while I'm in there. What does everyone run temp wise? Mine sees daily driving, probably 180/185 degrees. I didn't know about the Nissan contacts through here, but at my local stealership/dealership it was over five times the cost, with no exaggeration. Any safe way to verify that your cam timing is correct while its still apart? Are you talking about popping it off briefly to see if it fires? I could only imagine how messy that may be. Thanks again, all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 You are welcome, there are a lot of us who know this job first hand... Yes, that is the right temp for the thermostat. Checking the timing: he means counting the teeth on the belt between marka on the pulleys and pulley position. It is all explained in those threads. Rob will be more expensive than Kragens on most things, but not terribly so and I like to think you are getting better quality. With the items that are very expensive, he will literally tell you to buy elsewhere. He is a very honest and knowledgable guy, a forum member and a WD21 owner so you can have confidence in what he says/recommends. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wood6078 Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 (edited) Thanks B, counting the teeth is what I meant. It's like he KNOWS, or something....... :-) Edited September 23, 2010 by wood6078 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 I paid 45 dollars for a nissan belt over the 30 something the part store wanted for an aftermarket. Was a no brainer for me. I spent around 270 dollars for a tbelt, waterpump and tensioner from the dealer. Everything went together perfectly and that will be 3 years ago next summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceFrehley03 Posted September 24, 2010 Author Share Posted September 24, 2010 My Nissan dealer wanted (IIRC) $80 for the belt, whereas the gates I bought was $33. Gates has a good enough reputation to where I'm not going to sweat it immensely. I hope... Anyway, update. Got the truck in the garage, front end torn down to the point of breaking that crank pulley off. After that, the cover can come off and the belt should be ready to swap! Will continue this project tomorrow, ran out of daylight and energy for today. I will keep everyone posted. Thanks all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 Good Luck!! Just take your time and pay attention to details, it'll go smoothly... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 I paid $17.99 at NAPA for a Goodyear timing belt. Perfect fitment... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceFrehley03 Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 Alright, I'm stuck on the crank pulley. I have a strap wrench on it, locked on the frame of the truck and I still can't get the damn thing off. I am considering locking a breaker bar on the frame rail and burping the starter to make the engine do the work for me. How risky is this? Any chance of damaging the starter or any other internals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 It's a common trick to do, and is very effective. Just make sure you don't have auto start on that thing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceFrehley03 Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 I'm going to disconnect the coil to be safe . Here goes nothing, will post results soon! Wish me luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceFrehley03 Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 God, that was a thing of beauty. And I still have all ten fingers! Thanks man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wood6078 Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 Works every time..... Good move on unplugging the coil, btw. That's when it gets ugly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 Works every time..... Good move on unplugging the coil, btw. That's when it gets ugly yes, some rigs just start at the slightest turn. My 94 turns over on its own so quick you wonder if the starter even did anything or if it just fired and ran on its own. My 89 I had the key in run when I was turning the crank by hand and the damn thing fired. Gave me scare & it chucked the breaker at the floor. It didn't run but it had just the right conditons to fire one cyl when I got to that point in rotation. (I think MSD had a disclaimer about that) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 Lol, I remember I was with my Grandpa one time and he was removing the crank pulley on his V8 Grand Cherokee for whatever reason. He was doing the starter trick and totally forgot the rig had auto start installed on it, so when he turned the key it kept cranking until it fired and ran, slinging the breaker bar out of the engine bay and on to the driveway. It ripped a few things out with it... I think all he said was "oops." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceFrehley03 Posted September 25, 2010 Author Share Posted September 25, 2010 (edited) Where is the dimple located at on the block that you are supposed to line up with the crank pulley? I see the one on the crank pulley but can't find anything to line it up with. EDIT: Sorry, epic brain fart. Been a long night. So am I supposed to line up the indentation on the first dimple of the timing belt? Edited September 25, 2010 by AceFrehley03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AceFrehley03 Posted September 26, 2010 Author Share Posted September 26, 2010 (edited) I got her all back together, and it runs and sounds great! EDIT: Belt screeching was fixed by tightening the belts to a level only described as "balls tight." Thanks again everyone. Edited September 26, 2010 by AceFrehley03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Nice!! I'm glad you got it together!! The accessory belts?? If so, 'balls tight' can lead to premature bearing/bushing failure. General rule of thumb: longest span of belt, mid point vertical deflection total travel with 'moderate' pressure = 1/2 inch. Inspect the pulleys. If they are glazed, scuff them up with some 320 grit sand paper... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now