Rancho Struts for the R50

[XPLORx4]

Hello, and welcome to the forum!

 

1. The "AC lift" is actually exactly what you linked to. 4x4parts.com = "Automotive Customizers" = "AC". It's easier to write "AC lift" than "4x4parts.com lift".

 

2. AC's lift replaces the OEM coil springs and raises the ride height of the vehicle by 2 to 3 inches. Generally this does not have a negative effect on wear of suspension parts, but it can cause the CV boots on the front axles to wear more quickly unless you install manual hubs. (The front wheels are connected to the drive axles using full-time drive flanges; manual hubs allow you to twist a knob to disengage/engage the axles from the wheels.) One side-effect is that the strut can reach its full extension more easily on uneven road surfaces, resulting in a clunk when traveling over such terrain. This is sometimes referred to as "topping out". I have had the 2" lift on my Pathfinder for over 15 years (188K miles) and I have never had a strut or its related parts fail due to topping out.

 

3. Excel-G are KYB's re-branded GR2's. Same part, different name. It's true that there are NO struts that are longer than OEM. This ensures that the suspension will not drop below safe operating angles when the wheels are airborne, which could result in breaking parts (namely CV axles).

 

When you say you'll be using used springs, are those used LIFT springs or used OEM springs?

 

If you do get a lift, you can keep using original shocks if you're on a budget. However, you'll get the most benefit from it by installing longer-than-OEM rear shocks to allow the rear axle to flex better for off-road performance.

 

With the 2" lift, you will not need extended brake lines, but you may need a longer rear diff breather hose.

 

Many people who have experimented with swaybar disconnect devices have had mixed results with their performance/benefit ratio. In my experience, the rear swaybar does not contribute significantly to vehicle handling after a lift is installed. I no longer run a rear swaybar.

 

There is no current off-the-shelf way to disconnect the front swaybar, since while disconnected, it bangs around on the CV axles or otherwise interferes with suspension movement and/or turning. Some years ago, I tried using some JKS swaybar disconnects, but they ended up failing miserably due to the issues mentioned above.

 

With a 2" lift, you don't need a panhard rod relocation bracket.

 

Since the R50 Pathfinder is a unibody chassis, not a body-on-frame, you cannot install a body lift.

 

Visit the link in my signature to see what can be done in an R50 with a 2" lift.

Edited April 5, 2016 by XPLORx4

[dezm]

Hello, and welcome to the forum!

 

1. The "AC lift" is actually exactly what you linked to. 4x4parts.com = "Automotive Customizers" = "AC". It's easier to write "AC lift" than "4x4parts.com lift".

 

2. AC's lift replaces the OEM coil springs and raises the ride height of the vehicle by 2 to 3 inches. Generally this does not have a negative effect on wear of suspension parts, but it can cause the CV boots on the front axles to wear more quickly unless you install manual hubs. (The front wheels are connected to the drive axles using full-time drive flanges; manual hubs allow you to twist a knob to disengage/engage the axles from the wheels.) One side-effect is that the strut can reach its full extension more easily on uneven road surfaces, resulting in a clunk when traveling over such terrain. This is sometimes referred to as "topping out". I have had the 2" lift on my Pathfinder for over 15 years (188K miles) and I have never had a strut or its related parts fail due to topping out.

 

3. Excel-G are KYB's re-branded GR2's. Same part, different name. It's true that there are NO struts that are longer than OEM. This ensures that the suspension will not drop below safe operating angles when the wheels are airborne, which could result in breaking parts (namely CV axles).

 

When you say you'll be using used springs, are those used LIFT springs or used OEM springs?

 

If you do get a lift, you can keep using original shocks if you're on a budget. However, you'll get the most benefit from it by installing longer-than-OEM rear shocks to allow the rear axle to flex better for off-road performance.

 

With the 2" lift, you will not need extended brake lines, but you may need a longer rear diff breather hose.

 

Many people who have experimented with swaybar disconnect devices have had mixed results with their performance/benefit ratio. In my experience, the rear swaybar does not contribute significantly to vehicle handling after a lift is installed. I no longer run a rear swaybar.

 

There is no current off-the-shelf way to disconnect the front swaybar, since while disconnected, it bangs around on the CV axles or otherwise interferes with suspension movement and/or turning. Some years ago, I tried using some JKS swaybar disconnects, but they ended up failing miserably due to the issues mentioned above.

 

With a 2" lift, you don't need a panhard rod relocation bracket.

 

Since the R50 Pathfinder is a unibody chassis, not a body-on-frame, you cannot install a body lift.

 

Visit the link in my signature to see what can be done in an R50 with a 2" lift.

Some great info all in one place here, thanks! I had an additional question about the AC lift after reading your writeup.

 

In the description it says that you need wheels with a non stock backspacing (-3.75"). Do you know why that is? It seems a lot of people are running at least the OME lifts with stock wheels?

[Bax03SE]

The 3.75 backspacing recommendation is assuming you will be running larger tires after the lift. You can usually get up to a 31 inch tire on the stock rims, but anything taller than that runs the risk of having the top of the tire hit the bottom of the strut mount with the stock rims. Rims with shorter backspacing move the tire out so it will clear the strut with larger tire sizes.

[dezm]

The 3.75 backspacing recommendation is assuming you will be running larger tires after the lift. You can usually get up to a 31 inch tire on the stock rims, but anything taller than that runs the risk of having the top of the tire hit the bottom of the strut mount with the stock rims. Rims with shorter backspacing move the tire out so it will clear the strut with larger tire sizes.

Gotcha, thanks!

 

 

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