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max torque for a 5 speed


BoneZ
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I want to know how much torque a nissan 5 speed can handle. I have been thinking about doing a 3.3 swap after my sas, But the more I think about it the more I am leaning towards putting a GM 4.3L in it. I work for a GM OEM so i can get these parts at OEM level pricing. I would like to keep the stock running gear and just make a adapter to mate the 4.3L to the nissan 5 speed if it can handle it. But if I go with the the 4.3L it will not be a truck engine I would be using a marine long block and a industrial LP port injection intake and fuel system. (yes i know it will not be street legal) The thing is the engine would put our about 240 ft/lbs at around 2400 RPM, although that setup would red line around 4600 RPM.

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I doubt you will get a straight answer to that, but Vsicks put one in his Terrano along with a SAS (truck engine though) and wheeled it pretty hard so, yeah, it should work. I understand that WD21 drive train (other than the front end) can handle a lot more than the power it gets from the 3.0.

 

I'm pipe dreaming about the VG33 swap myself, especially with my headers, custom exhaust and the intake that I plan to do should make the most of it and still be smog legal...

 

B

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I doubt you will get a straight answer to that, but Vsicks put one in his Terrano along with a SAS (truck engine though) and wheeled it pretty hard so, yeah, it should work. I understand that WD21 drive train (other than the front end) can handle a lot more than the power it gets from the 3.0.

 

I'm pipe dreaming about the VG33 swap myself, especially with my headers, custom exhaust and the intake that I plan to do should make the most of it and still be smog legal...

 

B

 

I went to do a search for any of his post and all it says is he was banned.

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you can fairly safely say, that the nissan 5 speed will handle anything you can bolt to it.

 

I know allot of 300zx that recieved the same nissan 5 spd and have been pushed to over 300 ftlbs and much more in HP.

The only differance is the tail of the housing goes to a t-case instead of directly to the output shaft and the gear ratios inside.

And the gears inside were prolly still cut and mfgr'd the same way in the same factory.

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my problem right now is my clutch in 4 lo....she likes to slip....riding her to get her moving at 4k and she heats up and then just slips as all get out...but the power consumption reuqired to get up the rocks is much greater than full engagement of the clutch...thinking about shooting for a centerforce or something that has stronger forks and will let me torture her a lil..

 

my pipe dream is to stroke it...do a port and polish job and get one of htem programable ECU's to drive the beast...next in line is a VG33 with dash swap or a VG30DETT...all have provisions but no budget...

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my problem right now is my clutch in 4 lo....she likes to slip....riding her to get her moving at 4k and she heats up and then just slips as all get out...but the power consumption reuqired to get up the rocks is much greater than full engagement of the clutch...thinking about shooting for a centerforce or something that has stronger forks and will let me torture her a lil..

 

my pipe dream is to stroke it...do a port and polish job and get one of htem programable ECU's to drive the beast...next in line is a VG33 with dash swap or a VG30DETT...all have provisions but no budget...

 

 

i really doubt a vg30dett will ever fit in a wd21 if a regular vg30et cant fit with out turbo relocation.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here's a good reference: The Pathy 5 speed is stronger than a Super T-10 or a real (non-Z31T) T-5. The transmission rebuilder I use has been in the business for 30 years and he was amazed at how beefy they are. They don't particularly like it when a gorilla jumps on the shifter though. He says if you put maximum capacity bearings in one you'll twist the output shaft in two before anything else will fail under load. As with any transmission if you go power shifting it or doing full-slack redline clutch dumps all bets are off. (Kingman! :doh:) Likewise if you grind gears, especially reverse, the chips of gear floating in the oil will kill the countershaft bearing in the mid-plate before the magnetic drain plug can catch them. If you need to 'rock' back and forth hard slam it into first, NOT reverse!

 

A great trick he showed me on a race trans he did for my VG510 is to use a shielded bearing on the countershaft at the mid-plate and remove the forward shield so it gets proper lubrication from one side only. This prevents all the crap in the oil from washing back and forth through the bearing and killing it. I've probably taken apart 50 Nissan 5 speeds and I have never seen a failed one that had a good bearing in it at this location. He says failure of that bearing is the number one problem in virtually all manual transmissions.

 

Also, keep in mind that as the bearings in a transmission wear the shafts are able to spread further apart under load decreasing tooth engagement and making the gears and shafts effectively much weaker. I wouldn't bolt a small block Chevy up to a 250k mile Nissan 5 speed, but I wouldn't hesitate to bolt one up to a freshly rebuilt one. :aok:

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