Specv1973 Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 Anyone done this yet on a WD21? What's involved? I think that's where my oil leak is coming from. I've got a 170K and it's leaking good between the tranny and engine sandwich...and no it's not tranny fluid, I'm sure of that. I've washed and degreased everything and let it all come back just to be sure. My auto tranny gasket does have some seepage as well after, and my oil pan gasket is still dry all around. I know there's a separate gasket sometimes on the u-shape part of oil pans near the back, could that be it or is it a one piece gasket all around? I've seen or have had this type of leak before on other vehicles, but never fixed them or attempted it myself, just kept the level up between changes before. I'm pretty mechanically inclined with bolt on stuff, but that's about all I've ever done before. What kind of tools would I need outside the normal stuff I assume most of us have. I do have air tools too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 a RMS is a bit of a PITA...its not that its necessarily complicated to do and pretty basic but it requires a lot of work...here's the basics: 1. set the front end up on jackstands with the wheels off the ground 2. loosen tbar jam nuts and loosen tbars and remove front bolts and drop the tbars with their tension Xmember 3. remove front drive shaft if 4x4 4. remove rear driveshaft from rear axle but leave in transmission (keeps from leaking fluid) 5. remove 4 bolts on torque converter through starter hole, rotate engine from crank shaft bolt (if you didn't take the rear driveshaft off of the rear axle you will roll if in gear 6. disconnect all electrical and mechanical connections from the tranny that connect to the truck 7. use lots of extensions and swivels to access transmission bolts and loosen bolts leave some partially in so the transmission doesnt freakisly fall off and land on you 8. support transmission with tranny jack or some other dreamed up support (i have used 2 small jacks on a creeper and used a tow strap through the floor boardwhere the shifter hole is) 9.remove the fasteners left in to keep tranny from falling...(at this time i forgot to mention the transmssion support fasteners...i typically hve those loose and jack the tranny up a bit and then loosen them out and then push aft on the tranny till it separates from the engine and then jack it down and roll it out of the way. 10. remove old seal with a phenolic tool or carefully with metallic tools but be sure to not scratch up the crank or block where the seal presses in. 11. install new seal..make sure not to loose the spring on the backside of the seal or it will leak...been there done that... 12. put eveyrthing bakc together in reverse order... I've only done 1 automatic so i may have missed some things...it was also an 01 frontier and 2wd. I have done this countless times on a manual tranny for clutch and RMS i guess one thing i missed is you may have to remove the flex plate (make sure you use locktite when you reinstall everything and torque to spec) same with the torque converter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 Nothing to really add to that (Well done UNCCP) other than go to the Garage section and download the FSM that is pinned near the top. It will give you step by step instructions also. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Specv1973 Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 Wow, that is a PITA! But thank you so much unccpathfinder for the step by step. I have downloaded and added something to the FSM section Precise1. Thank you for that as well. I also have the Chilton for reference as well. I imagine both manuals cover this too, but I much rather have unccpathfinders real world experience to guide me. Looks like I better get to work soon.....the leak ain't gettin any better.....Thanks again guys for the time......what a great community you guys have on here.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 I thought I had an rms leak.... after I did my cams and all the front end seals I had no more drips on my mat. not even from below the tranny/engine union. OIL was leaking out of my rear cam covers and running down the back of the block creating the exact illusion of a RMS leak. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 (edited) I am leaking oil like crazy from everywhere it seems. I have actually considered just yanking the motor and finding/fixing the leaks while I do a timing belt. Frustrating... Edited August 2, 2010 by tmoore4512 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombeeXXX Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 Only thing I'd like to add is that the vg30 rear crank seal is in a carrier which unbolts from the block. This makes removal from the crank a snap with little worry of scratching. For torque converter bolts, I had to make a special 120 mile trip to get offset box end wrenches. A standard box end will not get on them squarely enough to break them loose. These have more of a curve so they clear the starter opening. Less than $20 for the set at harbor freight, though. And grease your seal lip before trying to install it. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismopu Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Getting ready to pull the engine out of my 87 pathy automagic and the PO has managed to lockup the bottome end on this engine. Is it safe to pull the engine out with the torque converter still attached? Someone told em these style lock onto the pumpcase to be driven......I have never experienced this with other nissan autos so this seems odd to me......any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Only auto I've pulled the tconverter went with the engine BC I didn't know any better... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismopu Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Only auto I've pulled the tconverter went with the engine BC I didn't know any better... Well, that's good to know at least! I have the front diff out and am now ready to pull this sucker off the tranny. I'll take pics if there is any additional carnage to report, lol! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnKing Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 it's not a theory, really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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