lint Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 Your input is valued! I installed a stacked plate B&M trans cooler on my '95 SE and bypassed the stock trans cooler in the radiator. Now I would like to know what the temperature of the AT fluid is. Which is better, a mechanical or an electric gauge? Which is better: Autometer or B&M gauges? What do you run? Please include model numbers (if you recall details like that) to help make informed decisions. Thanks!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 I agree with silverton, I prefer the electrical units so that's what I used... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24503&st=0&p=447214&hl="tranny%20filter"&fromsearch=1entry447214 B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 This applies to any kind of gauge that is measure pressure or temp. You want electrical, because you don't want oil, transmission fluid, or fuel running into the cabin. It's stupid, dangerous, and there are much better and safer ways of doing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lint Posted July 22, 2010 Author Share Posted July 22, 2010 Great advice Silverton. I don't want to be dangerous or stupid! I'll go 'lectric. Precise: your work is super clean and that gauge location rocks! That post is what got me thinking about adding the gauge in the 1st place. Drilling and tapping for the cap screws...that was for ground correct? Do you think I could just use JB weld and goober a connector on instead and run that to ground? I don't have a drill press and my hands aren't all that steady.... Any other ideas for grounding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 An electric one would be preferred. A mechanical one would need transmission fluid running into the cabin, and if the line failed, you have a trans fluid leak. WRONG !! Mechanical temp gauges do not have fluid running up to the gauge, the fluid heats up the end of the sender which causes the gauge to move, the only mechanical gauges that have fluid going to the back of the gauges would be pressure gauges such as oil I prefer mechanical as they are more accurate and I prefer Autometer, but keep in mind autometer makes different lines of gauges, the auto gauge series are cheaper than say their sport comp line, they also come in different sizes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 Heres what you do. 1) Go to harbor freight 2) Buy a temp gauge for under $20 3) Buy a wiring splice/connector kit for under $10 4) Go to lowes 5) In the plumbing section, get a bunch of brass fluid connectors (you will need about 6)to make a T (I can get you a picture of my setup) and some of that nifty teflon tape 6) Cut the rubber "to cooler" line and insert T fitting with gauge sender in it. Ground sender to power steering line retainer bracket bolt right there. 7) Follow wiring diagram on gauge instructions to wire everything. I wired my gauge power by using a splice fitting (really nifty thing) on my cigarette lighter (only on when key is turned) and the backlight is wired via same kind of fitting to the dash light dimmer dial (only on with headlights) I have the HF gauge on my motorcycle AND on my pathfinder. I wired the pathy and it works flawlessly, the previous owner of my motorcycle wired it in wrong and didn't protect the sender wires so there is something wrong with it (gauge is not at fault) so you should definately start there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 Reminds me, I still need to do this...gah...so much to do, so little money... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 Precise: your work is super clean and that gauge location rocks! That post is what got me thinking about adding the gauge in the 1st place. Drilling and tapping for the cap screws...that was for ground correct? Do you think I could just use JB weld and goober a connector on instead and run that to ground? I don't have a drill press and my hands aren't all that steady.... Any other ideas for grounding? Thanks!! Yeah, several people have a gauge there, it's one of the few logical spots available. If you mount yours there, drill as low as possible on that face and still have the gauge fit. The first one was about 1/4" higher, but it was enough to interfere in the dash so the entire piece wouldn't mount correctly. Thankfully I have a parts truck so I just started over. Yes, I drilled and tapped for the ground. Someone else brazed on a connection (soldering might work also if you do a good job), GrimGreg IIRC. I haven't used JB weld much and don't know how conductive it is... As you can see, there are several different sources and methods for installing a gauge and all of them are pretty straight forward. Just work out what is best/easiest/cheapest for you... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 Get a gauge that has a range from 100F to 250F. If you are pegging the gauge, you need to shut the truck down. In fact, if you are getting over 180F, its a problem. JB weld is just epoxy with metal fillings. Epoxy is used to insulate transformers. Without a good ground, you won't get an accurate reading. BTW, I use stewart-warner or VDO gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lint Posted July 23, 2010 Author Share Posted July 23, 2010 (edited) 4) Go to lowes 5) In the plumbing section, get a bunch of brass fluid connectors (you will need about 6)to make a T (I can get you a picture of my setup) and some of that nifty teflon tape 6) Cut the rubber "to cooler" line and insert T fitting with gauge sender in it. Ground sender to power steering line retainer bracket bolt right there. Hey OldSlowReliable, thanks for your reply. Pics! Please! ...Helps a "visual learner" like myself immensely. Cheers! Edited July 23, 2010 by lint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 If you want to do it the FREE way, there is a procedure in the FSM on how to get a temperature reading from the transmission computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lint Posted July 23, 2010 Author Share Posted July 23, 2010 If you want to do it the FREE way, there is a procedure in the FSM on how to get a temperature reading from the transmission computer. Yeah, I read that, but I don't like messin' with 'puters. I mean, what would I do if it developed a binary leak?? I'd rather spend the $$ and enjoy the process. Under the truck; with a beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 4) Go to lowes 5) In the plumbing section, get a bunch of brass fluid connectors (you will need about 6)to make a T (I can get you a picture of my setup) and some of that nifty teflon tape 6) Cut the rubber "to cooler" line and insert T fitting with gauge sender in it. Ground sender to power steering line retainer bracket bolt right there. This is probably what I am going to do...even though I am confident around/inside/with computers...lol If you want to do it the FREE way, there is a procedure in the FSM on how to get a temperature reading from the transmission computer. The write up is not very clear on HOW exactly to translate the signal...using the AA battery tester I assume? Yeah, I read that, but I don't like messin' with 'puters. I mean, what would I do if it developed a binary leak?? I'd rather spend the $ and enjoy the process. Under the truck; with a beer. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 Yeah, I read that, but I don't like messin' with 'puters. I mean, what would I do if it developed a binary leak?? I'd rather spend the $$ and enjoy the process. Under the truck; with a beer. *snort* Nice!! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted July 24, 2010 Share Posted July 24, 2010 The nice thing about using the inline temp gauge stuff, is that if you please, you can run a pre-cooler gauge and a post-cooler gauge, this way you can tell if your cooler is doing its job at any given time, and hopefully spot a bad setup/cooler before something bad happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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