pathfinder93x Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 Hey guys sorry to bother you with this but I'm looking to change my front brakes and can't seem to find a thread on it, i know its trickier then the back brakes due to ball bearings... Let me know if there is any tutorial on this forum, id greatly appreciate it... the search really didnt find me much... i really tried! Also another thing recently my 95 pathfinder has been causing me some trouble with the transmission, the first gear seems alot more forced to get in then usual... any ideas? Let me know Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 If you mean changing the pads, I believe you can just remove the rear bolt and pivot the caliper up and forward, off of the rotor. Put a line on the bleeding nipple and into a container, loosen the nipple and compress the piston back into the caliper. Shut the nipple, change the pads, reposition the caliper, replace the bolt. Do the same on the other side and then bleed the front brakes. *note* You may have to remove the caliper entirely, not just pivot it. I work on too many different vehicles to remember. As for the tranny, when was the last time the fluid was changed? Redline MT-90 is highly recommended and be sure to read the TSB pinned in the top of the Garage section. It basically says to 'overfill' the tranny to 5.1 quater (liters) for proper lubrication. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 You are correct on flipping the caliper on up on the PF's, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Creekkid Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 don't open the bleed screw to compress the piston.....fluid will just run back to the Master Cylinder...just check to make sure there is room in it for the fluid, usually they are ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wood6078 Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 don't open the bleed screw to compress the piston.....fluid will just run back to the Master Cylinder...just check to make sure there is room in it for the fluid, usually they are ok. That's also a quick easy way to make sure the hose is still good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfinder93x Posted July 13, 2010 Author Share Posted July 13, 2010 OK i got it all done and a buddy of mine whose a mechanic just swong by to inspect it for me, looked good...... Now i have another issue Front and back breaks are fine, no noises, but I got another grinding sound happening somewhere, sounds like passenger back.... its like a winning mixed with a squeak. Also my transmission is making a odd noise in neutral.... ticking sounds with a bit of a grind... 1. Im thinking my clutch might be going 2. squeak in back i dont have a handbreak now so maybe its jammed shut, but how would that happen if it was fine before? Any ideas, it would help alot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted July 13, 2010 Share Posted July 13, 2010 Does the transmission make the sounds when you are in just neutral or moving slowly(engine at idle)? When you say "neutral," do you have the clutch pedal depressed or not? If it makes the sound with the pedal depressed, its likely your pilot bearing. If it occurs in neutral, its one of the input shaft bearings. If it changes depending on the gear you are in, it may be the tailshaft issues. X2 to Precise1 on the Redline MT oil. Not cheap, but *excellent* product. I don't understand what you mean with the "squeak in back" issue. Personal problem? Lay off the mexican food? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathfinder93x Posted July 14, 2010 Author Share Posted July 14, 2010 thanks for the help 1. When in neutral not on clutch it sounds like a container with marbles in it being shooken up 2. When i press on clutch and go in first no noise while in idle 3. When driving in 1-2-3 it makes a racket, winnig/grinding and when in 4th all noise goes away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 14, 2010 Share Posted July 14, 2010 (edited) I can't tell you exactly what the problem is other than gears or bearings in your tranny. The way I know this is that 4th gear is essentially direct drive, 1:1 input to output so it doesn't use all of the gear pack. I think this also rules out your input/output shafts as those would make noise regardless of gear. Greardless, a rebuild is not terribly expensive, especially if you remove the tranny for them. Why is everyone who needs parts so far away!! I have a MT in my parts truck with 132k miles on it. Works perfectly with all new clutch parts 25k miles ago... *grumbles* B Hey, I ammended the title to include the manual tranny issues. This is just to help people in the future who may search for this information. Edited July 14, 2010 by Precise1 Changed Title Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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