HeadLights

[headpeace]

the other night I started the PF, turned the HL switch on and no headlights, so I turned the switch off and back on again and voile' - the Headlights came on. Last night start up the PF, back out and start to drive down the road, turn on the headlights and get nothing, turn the switch on and off multiple times - still no headlights. Didn't have time to check the fuse - I'll do that tonight, really don't think it's the bulbs themselves.

 

So other than the obvious (fuse, bulbs) what else should I look for to try and fix this problem?

[adamzan]

Headlight switch. Common point of failure. I think you can rebend or clean the contacts but it only works for a bit. You can get a new one for about 40-60 dollars depending on where you go. Don't even bother with a JY one because you never know how long it will last.

[headpeace]

I was afraid of that, what is involved with replacing it? would it be easier to just wire up an aftermarket switch somewhere?

[tmoore4512]

Best thing to do is the headlight mod found here:

 

88's HEADLIGHT MOD THREAD

 

It entails adding relays, which our trucks do not have...thus taking the strain off of the switch.

 

I did it to mine, due to the same exact issue you are having...I did not have to replace the switch. Pictures of the harness making process are here:

 

MY HEADLIGHT MOD

 

Mine is no different than 88's, but had to be done...

 

Don't end up on fire like I did, do it before it causes any major issues...

 

(It made a world of difference in the headlights as well...)

[headpeace]

yeah I was planning on doing 88's mod "one of these days", If that will fix my problem I can kill 2 birds with one stone. But I'm confused as to how that will fix a faulty switch?

 

BTW, what caught on fire?

Edited July 2, 2010 by headpeace

[RedPath88]

It won't correct the faulty switch, but it will prevent another switch from failing as early.

 

You "can" open the switch up and tweak the contacts a little to buy a bit more time (depending on the condition of the contacts) but eventually you will need to replace it. Doing this a couple times gave me a couple months.

 

If you tweak them and do the mod you may get even more time from it. Best bet though, would be to replace the switch and do the mod

 

My replacement switch was about $80 iirc from the dealer several years ago, not sure what the current price is now, but you should contact Rob (Alkorahil) and see what kinda of a price for a factory switch he can give you - GENUINE NISSAN PARTS

Another option would be RockAuto who recently contacted us for approval and extended a discount program to all NPORA members - RockAuto.com Discount Code

[headpeace]

yeh if I go with a new switch I'll definitely contact Rob, can you explain to me how I would clean/replace the switch? Do I have to take the column plastic pieces off? Where do I start?

[headpeace]

Hey TMoore, can you give me a list of what you actually did use out of all the things you have pictured on your link?

[RedPath88]

It's pretty simple, remove the cover, unplug the harness, remove the screws that hold the switch assembly in. There may be a little more to it, I don't remember exactly since it's been so long. The contact cover iirc is held by a couple clips... but it might have been small screws. Clean them and test. If they still don't work reliably give them a little bend, to much and they will not turn off.

 

Use a multimeter to test, rather than constantly reinstalling in the truck.

 

 

[tmoore4512]

Yea bro, no problem!

 

I used the wire, #10, #12 yellow (high beam), red (low), black (ground)

The high temp 9004 sockets

The 30 and 40 amp relays

Split loom tubing

 

I ditched the fusible links for the BUSS panel, that can be seen in SPAGHETTII!!

Cleaned it up a ton.

 

I think that is all...but it is late! Hahaha

 

The mod was simple enough, (except changing the wire out of the 9004 sockets, grrr) and worked wonders!

 

(One of the high beam wires torched. Not cool!)

[headpeace]

do I need high temp sockets or can I use the ones I have? Can I just use 2 30 amp relays instead of 1 30 and 1 40?

 

Also what amp fuse should I get?

 

So 10 gauge from battery to inline fuse to relay, then 10 gauge from relay to socket basically and previous wires from switch to relays, is that correct?

Edited July 3, 2010 by headpeace

[tmoore4512]

You really NEED the high temp sockets. $10 at AutoZone the factory ones are designed to fail for some reason. It would be in your best interest...

 

I used #10 wire for the high beams, you can get away with #12 as ANYTHING is better than the #16/18 that the factory used.

 

You can use two 30 amp relays, its just a preference thing. The high beams will not pull 40 amps ever, unless there is a serious malfunction.

 

You are on the right track,

 

power from the battery via fusible link, to the relay, and from the relay to the socket should all be the same size.

 

BATTERY-FUSIBLE LINK-SUPPLY SIDE (OF RELAY)-OUTPUT SIDE-SOCKET

 

The factory wires will provide power for the coil's on the relays...

 

I need to make a picture with all of this, would help I think as my mind is getting tied up in knots as I sit here and think! LOL

[headpeace]

OK cool thanks

[tmoore4512]

No problem bro. I am glad to help! Good luck!

[headpeace]

did your switch problem cease after you did this mod?

[tmoore4512]

Mine did, but the switch was not in too bad of shape. I have a backup sitting in the shop just in case though...

[headpeace]

What did you use and how did you get the connectors out of the new sockets?

[tmoore4512]

I used a small flat blade screw driver to remove the connectors out of the sockets. Then carefully pulled them apart and removed the wire. Replaced wire and soldered it in. Then re installed the connectors back into the sockets.

 

It was tedious work bro, but you can do it.