Toby Posted May 23, 2010 Share Posted May 23, 2010 Dear NPORA, I need to replace the driver's side CV boot on my 1994 Pathfinder. I would search but I haven't slept for a while and am about to pass out. So I was hoping you guys could help me out with how to replace it. What all do I need and is it difficult? I'm just worried about the auto hubs because i've never really messed with bearings and stuff. Anyone who could help me I would be much obliged. Love, Toby PS: <3 xoxo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 23, 2010 Share Posted May 23, 2010 the hubs are easy to remove, here are the steps, loosen the 6 hub bolts before jacking the truck up, 7MM allen wrench jack up truck and place a jack stand next to the jack than lower the jack so the truck is sitting on the jack stand (safety first),now remove tire, finish taking out the 6 hub bolts and pull hub off, it may stick as it has an O-ring on the inside once the hub is removed you will see the end of the axle shaft, using a snap ring pliers remove the snap ring place all parts removed on a paper shop towel, pc of cardboard whatever, when you remove each part lay them on the paper/cardboard in the order you removed them so you know how they all go back on and in what order remove the flat washer remove the flat washer with tabs remove the metal cup looking part also has 2 tabs now you will see a flat washer looking part with 2 Phillip head screws in it remove the 2 screws remove the "lock washer" using a Phillips screw driver in one of the larger holes, un screw the bearing lock washer ( you are just using the screw driver to push the lock ring counter clockwise your not unscrewing a screw or anything remove the brake caliper and hang it using a bungee cord or wire so the caliper is not hanging from the rubber brake hose remove the brake pads remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts ( 2 bolts behind the rotor probably 19MM) remove the caliper bracket pull the hub/rotor assembly off, if it does not pull off easily you may have to tap the end of the axle using a rubber hammer, do not hit it hard if using a metal hammer be careful when removing the hub/rotor assembly as there is an inner and outer wheel bearing the service manual says you have to separate the tie rod to get the axle out but I don't think you have to unbolt the axle on the center section I think 6 bolts remove the whole axle assembly by lowering the inside half and maneuvering the axle so you can get it out of the spindle I would recommend just replacing the whole axle assembly they run $59 at my local auto parts and since you have to remove the axle to replace the boot might as well replace the whole axle to assemble follow the steps in reverse but make sure to wipe all the washers and stuff clean first, I would recommend downloading the factory service manual first it tells you and shows the steps and parts you need to remove. and it also tells how tight to set the wheel bearing lock nut anyone feel free to add or correct anything I posted, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted May 23, 2010 Share Posted May 23, 2010 This was a recent one Toby..... Didn't even have to use the search Function. Thank you Fleury for you time to do all the research to benefit all of us. Rockford Thermoplastic Cv Boot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted May 23, 2010 Author Share Posted May 23, 2010 Yeah too much work it looks like. Might have nissan do it when I get my VSS done. and i was falling asleep at my keyboard when I posted this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted May 24, 2010 Author Share Posted May 24, 2010 Double post: I'll be doing this myself after all lol. I refuse to pay $500 or so for an outer CV Boot replacement, not including parts. Bad enough they want to kill me on this VSS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 t-t-t-t-triple post! wtf do I use to get the allen bolts off the hub? I tried using an allen wrench and it twisted all of them. They make those in socket form don't they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 t-t-t-t-triple post! wtf do I use to get the allen bolts off the hub? I tried using an allen wrench and it twisted all of them. They make those in socket form don't they? yes they do. it was like 12 bucks for a set at checker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 yes they do. it was like 12 bucks for a set at checker wtf is checker? and it took me a while and alot of refreshing but i got the FSM for the 1994 to work finally. Half the pages refuse to load. this will be a royal pain in the ass though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted May 27, 2010 Share Posted May 27, 2010 checker is an auto parts store. o'reilleys autozone napa or wherever will have them too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted May 27, 2010 Author Share Posted May 27, 2010 checker is an auto parts store. o'reilleys autozone napa or wherever will have them too. Only one of those we have near me is Napa. And I refuse to use them because I'm tired of inept employees and rude service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted May 28, 2010 Author Share Posted May 28, 2010 Sooo... uhhh... What if the bolts on the autolocking hubs (the outside ones) don't come out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 than you do what I just had to do, 3 of the 6 came right out the other 3 were stripping, used an American sized Allen, key the type in the socket and got 2 more out, oh what helped too was using a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter and using my impact gun, one quick shot with the impact gun and the 2 stuck ones came right out, last bolt wouldn't budge, tried using an easy out, left handed drill bit, a sears craftsman screw extractor, nothing worked, ended up cutting the head off with a dremel tool, than once the hub was off I unscrewed the darn bolt with my fingers !!! it must have been binding inside the hub, junkyard trip provided a few extra bolts for free Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 t-t-t-t-triple post! wtf do I use to get the allen bolts off the hub? I tried using an allen wrench and it twisted all of them. They make those in socket form don't they? also make sure if you use the socket type that you hit the end of the socket so the allen part is in as far as it will go, it helps, you can also spray them with lubricant a few days before you try to get them out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted May 28, 2010 Author Share Posted May 28, 2010 I picked up some allen sockets tonight. It was 6mm (not 7 as stated before). And it started spinning inside the bolt. I will spray them with PB Blaster and see where it takes me. I just want to get this done and over with since the Datsun is my daily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 (edited) could have sworn it was a 7MM, have to check my socket set, when you do try to get them out, try to get the allen part in as far as it will go than smack the ratchet handle with your hand really quick or a hammer, if it still spins try the American sized equivalent to the metric it fits a little tighter in the head of the bolt your daily driver?? you should still be able to drive it with a torn boot since it's not in 4 wd anyway Edited May 28, 2010 by ahardb0dy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted May 28, 2010 Author Share Posted May 28, 2010 could have sworn it was a 7MM, have to check my socket set, when you do try to get them out, try to get the allen part in as far as it will go than smack the ratchet handle with your hand really quick or a hammer, if it still spins try the American sized equivalent to the metric it fits a little tighter in the head of the bolt your daily driver?? you should still be able to drive it with a torn boot since it's not in 4 wd anyway Yeah but it makes this annoying sound. I still got my S10. But driving around like this just gets old. And I'm sure it's not too great to keep it up like that in case what's left of the boot flies into my engine bay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 I hear you, you'll get those bots out, took me a while on the last one that was stuck but it's out now and replaced the bolt already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 At Autozone the CV axles carry a lifetime warranty...so if it happens again you just gotta go through take off and re install...no need to buy again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoneZ Posted May 28, 2010 Share Posted May 28, 2010 At Autozone the CV axles carry a lifetime warranty...so if it happens again you just gotta go through take off and re install...no need to buy again... I pick up spare cv shafts at the local pick and pull for 5 dollars for the hole unit less then a new boot and just swap them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted May 29, 2010 Author Share Posted May 29, 2010 There is no autozone near me. Only advanced, napa, and a local one. i got it through them for $70. The core charge on it is higher than the price for the axle assembly though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted June 17, 2010 Author Share Posted June 17, 2010 Bump! Anybody got any tips for removing where the axle bolts onto the Front Differential? It just keeps spinning. And will a 6-sided socket be okay for it? I don't have any of the 12-point or whatever that is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmoore4512 Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 That is not too bad, probably re-manufactured though. I am trying to find some myself...the AZ where I work doesn't stock em, but can get em through the hub. So I am looking at 130 and change to do mine. I have done boot replacement in the past. Its a PITA in my opinion. On mine, I would rather replace, than re boot because I don't know how long they have been busted, and what kind of contaminants are inside... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 If you're going to go thru the trouble of rebooting it yourself then go the extra step and take the whole assembly apart, Clean everything, Check for wear damage, Buy some good Grease, and put it all back together. I did a few of these while at school and its not that hard. Pain in the ass to get them apart and back together but not that bad. Remember to use Wood to so you don't damage anything while trying to use a hammer to take assembly apart. And when using a vice use either soft jaws or wrap them appropriately so you don't damage the shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted June 19, 2010 Author Share Posted June 19, 2010 I'm just putting a new axle in. I am having trouble getting the old axle off. I can't figure out how exactly to get these bolts off of the axle where it bolts up to the front differential. After I cut off the hub bolts however the rest of the assembly came off beautifully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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