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crank up the tb s


Lextronix
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Dude, if you need pointers on where to put a jack, maybe you should have someone else work on your Pathy.

Hehehehe

 

Man, the best way to learn the right way to do is doing the wrong.... :P

 

By the way... I need a friend's Pathy to prove this thought... :laugh:

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Hehe, you read my mind sort of;

My freind works on cars and he'll be doing most of the work. I'm just a second set of arms at the moment. But I do like to learn and I know the best way to learn is hands on experience, so excuse my lack of knowledge.

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LOL, be nice 88psycopathoffroad !! I don't think you were born with this knowledge, and 'newbie' is a possible indication to skill level. On the other hand, you are absolutely correct about ability or at least supervision.

Lextronics, there is a nice flat spot rear of lower control arm where there is a arm dingus. I use this because it is lower and before the frame at its curve inwards. That means you can get better height (not that you need that much, just wheels off the ground) without over extending your stands (you are using jack stands RIGHT ?) and are as wide as possible... I used this place to pull the tranny with NO problems. Try to keep the contact point level (driving the rear wheels on 4x4's will help a lot). I jacked from the front most cross member to keep the front end level. Once you have it on the jack stands, leave the jack under with slight pressure (slight ! not enough to lift, just firm contact). Then get out from underneath and push against the vehicle several times to prove stability, and let it 'settle' if its going to. Now inspect the support contact points to make sure nothing is amis, and that the supports are still firm and squarely seated on the ground. If everything checks out, you are ready to get under.

The key here is safety, thats why I take the time to try to describe this. I know a mechanic of 21+years who was pinned under his own car in the garage for almost an hour. The reason he wasn't crushed was that he had the sense to put the front tires he removed under the hubs (a standard, inteligent safety precaution). As it was, he could not move, and had to focus on breathing. Don't let me scare you either. If the car is properly supported, there will be no problems. If someone jokes you about this procedure, kick them in the (Bls) shins, shove them under the car then perform your 'stability' test...

The T-bar procedure is not hard, just make sure to loosen the front mount also, then you can have your way with them... Good luck !

 

Bernard

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Dude, if you need pointers on where to put a jack, maybe you should have someone else work on your Pathy.

Hehehehe

 

Man, the best way to learn the right way to do is doing the wrong.... :P

 

By the way... I need a friend's Pathy to prove this thought... :laugh:

till his rig falls on him or something like that .

:blink:

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I agree with 88, as soon as I read, he wanted to know where to place the JACK, I thought OH CRAP! the first crushed to death NPORA member!!! And maybe we should'nt give him anymore tips!

 

You should have at least basic knowledge of how to turn a wrench, where to safely jack up a car...ANY CAR....and how to work safely in general before takling any work under, over, around, above, beside, (did I forget any :unsure: ) any vehical....

 

But anyway...I digree.....WELCOME LEXTRONIX!

 

Everyone here is ery cool and extremely helpful.....I know you'll enjoy it. And hopefully learn alittle along the way...Like we all have!

 

Wow...too much typing...my fingers are tired....i need to cool them while wrapping them around a beer! :beer:

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Yep kmgar99, except thats why we need to tell him where to put the jack in the first place, and insist on him having supervision; so he can learn.

I'm having fun with my torsion bars !! I indexed them when I did my clutch last week. Now I drive it, park it, come back to it, eyeball it, measure it, shimmy under it with my 19MM's, crank a bit, grin, and drive off. The front is still barely lower than the rear and climbing, but what a difference in feel !! It now is like I'm driving a truck with firm suspension rather than a soggy station wagon with a bad attitude... Of course when I get it level and even, replace tie rod ends, etc I'll have an allignment done.

I highly recommend doing this to any older 'stock' Pathy. It will be a pain at first, but if you clean and lube everything it becomes simple; I could completely remove and install the T-bars in about 1/2 an hour now...

 

Bernard

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Just be aware that any significant ride height change will also change toe-in and camber of the alignment. When you get it where you like it, have it aligned at that height by a shop with the proper specs. Driving around with the toe off and the camber off will either wear out your tires fast or make it hard to steer properly. I would know, I've been eyeball aligning mine for the last year or so, hehehe.

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