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Water Temperature Gauge Reading


ahardb0dy
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Sometimes yes, sometimes no. Verify with a heat gun that the temperature on the radiator inlet is within 5F of 180F. 180F is normal and optimum running temperature. If that's what you're getting then your gauge is just a little off, there are ways to calibrate it but I don't know how as I've never had to. From the factory they are designed to sit exactly center when fully warmed up. If your gauge is accurate and you're running too cold, your gas mileage most likely will drop and sometimes things just won't feel "right." Replacing the thermostat is the best place to start.

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the engine is a JDM engine, no idea what temp thermostat is in it or if it has one at all!! I posted a thread about the terrible mileage I got today so possibly if it is running too cold this may be contributing to the bad MPG.

 

JDM and US thermostat temp is 169.7 per FAST program

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My temp needle usually sits right above the cold mark, it will climb to about quarter under heavy load, up a hill on the freeway. My heat doesn't seem quite HOT either, but I get 20mpg pretty steady with mixed driving, and I don't have a light foot either. When I do the timing set soon, I will also be replacing the thermostat, I have a hunch that it is stuck open.

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When I got a new thermostat the parts guy told me it was supposed to be a 170* thermostat so thats what I got. My needle sits about 1/4 past cold too. I would have thought it should be 180* at least but if they recommend 170* that should be where the computer expects it to run.

James

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That's not where the computer expects it to run.

 

Since the engine is happiest at 180F, that temperature thermostat will keep it there easiest instead of being allowed to cool below that temperature if the thermostat doesn't close soon enough. I installed a new 180F thermostat a few weeks ago and my gauge sits perfectly center, right where it was designed to.

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Yep,thats the normal,they go a bit high,kinda fast if you have a hose let go...I drove mine 29k and the only times when it went up was when a hose let go and in winter when I forgot to top it off after getting back from having the t-belt changed...

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When I got a new thermostat the parts guy told me it was supposed to be a 170* thermostat so thats what I got. My needle sits about 1/4 past cold too. I would have thought it should be 180* at least but if they recommend 170* that should be where the computer expects it to run.

James

X2

 

It said I could use a 170 (factory one I pulled out was a 170) or a 180 for colder climates. I put a 170 in as the summers still get kinda hot here. Of all 3 of my pathys none of the temp gauges have ever sat at half way and the heat is good in all of them. It sits about 1/3 of the way up.

 

Maybe the older model gauges are calibrated differently.

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When I got a new thermostat the parts guy told me it was supposed to be a 170* thermostat so thats what I got. My needle sits about 1/4 past cold too. I would have thought it should be 180* at least but if they recommend 170* that should be where the computer expects it to run.

James

 

its not an on off swich, its variable and 170 is where it should start to open. this way it can reach and equilibrium between thermostat postion and amount of fan clutch engagement too keep the engine cool. You could have a no thermostat and the engine would still over heat without a fan. At the same time if the fan is keeping the radiator below 160F than a 170 thermostat will not allow the eginge to go hotter thatn 170.

 

hell a 180 keeps an LS1 engine @ ~200 deg

 

X2

 

It said I could use a 170 (factory one I pulled out was a 170) or a 180 for colder climates. I put a 170 in as the summers still get kinda hot here. Of all 3 of my pathys none of the temp gauges have ever sat at half way and the heat is good in all of them. It sits about 1/3 of the way up.

 

Maybe the older model gauges are calibrated differently.

 

the older model guages werebuilt etirely differant. the fuel and temp on mine can be calibrated by turing a contact srew inside the unit.

the newer ones are 'fixed' by a constant voltage regulator. if that regulator is failing your guages may be off or in other cases they just go haywire.

anybody remember where the voltage regulator thread is?

Edited by MY1PATH
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Yesterday I swapped out the temp sender for the water temp gauge with the one from the old engine, still reading the same 1/4 way up, so I guess that's normal.

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