Manifesto Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 (edited) Well, I've been procrastinating quite a bit, but I finally was able to put in some work. Took everything apart, changed out the water pump and tensioner, as well as pulled the rad out and hosed all the dried mud out of the fins (there was ALOT) and reinstalled it. All that's left now is to install the new timing belt which... is proving kind of tricky I swear I need 4 hands to pull this stunt off XD I get the belt positioned on the crank, and then I'll get it on one of the cams while ratcheting into position, then fight to get rid of the slack on one side and get it where I need it so I can get it on the other cam while trying to get that cam in position, just to see that the belt had come off the crank and skipped 3 teeth >_< I gave up after about an hour of this -_- I had the new tensioner on, but I tightened it so I would have as much slack as it would allow, would it be easier to install the new tensioner AFTER the belt is on? Yes, I read the How To, I know what I have to do, it's just DOING it that is proving problematic. Also, while replacing the thermostat I realized that it hadn't come with a new gasket... I went ahead and made a gasket out of a cigarette pack and spray tack, as well as put a tiny bead of black gasket silicone type sealer around the thermostat before I threw it in, so I'm pretty confident that it will hold. ONE MORE thing, slightly off topic... without realizing, I was able to turn the crank with a wrench while it was still in 1st gear... is my clutch gone O.o? Edited April 27, 2010 by Manifesto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerranoNZ Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 1: Sorry can't help with the belt (All 3 I've done have stayed still ) You could try a cam lock type bar? I'm sure it has a proper name. Just did a quick search and how about this idea? A zip tie should work for the cams anyway. 2: There is no gasket for the T-stat according to the FSM, just liquid gasket. (12-15 ftlbs) 3: Can't help there as I'm an auto guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 (edited) I just loosened the tensioner as much as I could, so it wasn't putting much of any pressure on the belt, lined up my cams, and lined up my crank, then retightened the tensioner... I found it to be really simple... Got it right first try... Edited April 27, 2010 by Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 That cant be a pathy tex...too clean...wheres the mud,dead fish and xploded frogs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 The zip ties is a good idea. After a few tries, I set the tensioner to where it was loose but not enough to easily let a tooth skip. Then I went from the crank pulley to the passenger cam pully to the drivers side. That one was tight going on, but all the marks were in the right place. Then I counted the teeth between maks about 4 times out of paranoia... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manifesto Posted April 28, 2010 Author Share Posted April 28, 2010 (edited) lol well... it has a gasket now XD I wish I had thought about those zip ties earlier, I'll have to remember for next time! my pathy's a '92 but... a round tooth belt meshed perfectly O.O are the square tooth and round tooth belts interchangeable?? Nick threw in a lightly used round tooth belt when he sold me the pathy, I gave it a try after the new square tooth one I bought kept skipping teeth and making my life miserable while trying to install it >_> OH, and I couldn't really remember where the spring on the tensioner was suppose to sit so... i put it here is all this right? just... so I know before I bolt it all back together tomorrow haha Precise, I'll probably do the same thing before i bolt it all up, but it was getting realllly windy and starting to rain by the time I got the belt on today, but that's the same order I went about getting it on too Edited April 28, 2010 by Manifesto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted April 28, 2010 Share Posted April 28, 2010 No, the belts aren't interchangable. If you had a square tooth originally, put a square tooth one back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manifesto Posted April 28, 2010 Author Share Posted April 28, 2010 argh, I gotta get a hold of Nick -_- I vaguely remember him saying there was only 15k on the motor since it was swapped in can't remember what the year was that it was pulled out of... and I threw the old broken belt away like.. a month ago and wasn't paying attention:( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 The pullies are different from square to round pully. Let me look for a picture when I get home today... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 shouldnt the 92s be round tooth ones anyway...?I thought squire tooth ones are the ones you change every 105k...or I'm I getting it back wards,rounds are the ones you change every 105k...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerranoNZ Posted April 30, 2010 Share Posted April 30, 2010 shouldnt the 92s be round tooth ones anyway...?I thought squire tooth ones are the ones you change every 105k...or I'm I getting it back wards,rounds are the ones you change every 105k...? Yes you are backward, the square ones need changing @ 60,000ish km and the round ones are at 100,000ish km. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manifesto Posted April 30, 2010 Author Share Posted April 30, 2010 I believe round tooth is the newer style 105k interval belts while the square belts are the older 60k -- as far as I've come to understand anyway. I still have my top cover off, I'll take some more pics today and show what I have Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Here you go, a round toothed pulley and belt. Just to make sure there is no confusion, this is what should be found on 94-95 WD21s and have a commended replacement interval of 105k miles/4 years. FYI mine was on for 99k and 14 years with no significant signs of rubber degradation, much less cracking or fraying. And as for the tensioner spring placement, you have it correct as per this photo. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 Yep, mid-year 93 was the switch from square to round tooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted May 2, 2010 Share Posted May 2, 2010 That cant be a pathy tex...too clean...wheres the mud,dead fish and xploded frogs... It's a Mitsubishi lol. I'm sure you noticed but I dunno if you were joking on the internet. But yeah. DOHC should've been the first giveaway. Followed by the valve covers that say "mitsubishi" lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manifesto Posted May 3, 2010 Author Share Posted May 3, 2010 ok, looks same as mine. must have been swapped in from a '94+ then pardon the dirt xD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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