Toby Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Gotta drive the pickup until then. This kinda sucks. I don't make enough money to fix this stuff. ughhhh D: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 yeah thats about how mine was. I would bring it to a small shop not the nissan dealer. I thin ka smaller shop would be more willing to fix it for cheaper. Shop around. explain to them how to fix it so they dont need to sit around and figure it out. Exactly. Gotta drive the pickup until then. This kinda sucks. I don't make enough money to fix this stuff. ughhhh D: I'm sorry to hear that, but this isn't really an expensive repair. Post in the Parts Wanted section and see of anyone has some tension rods to send you cheap. That may save a few bucks if they don't need to be repaired... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 money is just tight because I'm in between jobs and trying to save money for when I move. that's why it sucks to have to park the pathfinder for the few weeks or whatever it may be while I wait. Not to mention I still gotta get my speedo and exhaust fixed for emissions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 I hear ya - mine wont' pass inspection ttill I get the holes in the body fixed under the rear seats... ugh. Plus, now, I have to do this... and I don't know if I can weld the new parts in with my pitiful little propane/oxy torch... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 You really don't need to be a pro welder to do this. It can be done with one of those 110v fluxcore mig welders. As you can see in edicers pics the bearing race is just tacked on in a bunch of spots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 Yeah, thing is, like I said - best I got is an Oxy/Propane (or Oxy/Mapp if I can find the MAPP gas) torch with about 10-13 minutes of gas... lol. Somehow I doubt that'll be much help here. God... wish I could buy myself a nice mini-mig or something... my welding class is going to waste and with no way to practice I'm sure I'm hella rusty... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 Alright got it fixed i had the holes welded s h u t and redrilled them out, then welded on a A-17 bearing race(posted pictures of box) then put a c r a p load of welding beads on the tension rods then grinded them smooth to build them up from all the rubbing they did they were a little worn out. Heres the after math this should be stronger than the orginal! I did this to both sides to be on the safe side and no more wobble! That's what I call a properly engineered solution ! .. This is great. You took the time to see what the real problem was and to fix it once and for all...no temp patch here... Bravo. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 (edited) It looks like tobys situation is different than edicer though..edicers cup is missing thats why he has to have a bearing cup welded on, tobys cup is still in tact so just needs a tension rod That fix looks great bud Edited April 13, 2010 by PATHRIDER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 (edited) Toby can you get a few different angles of your tension rod? Simular to the ones i posted just turn your wheel and take a picture from the top of your wheel well down at it and also maybe under it on the back side where the other bushing and nut are. This way we can see what is all damaged on ours. Edited April 13, 2010 by edicer2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 Just out of curiosity - anyone who has done this - would you be willing to do a write up? Assuming replacement of cup and tension rod + bushing I'm looking at my Haynes manual... and truth be told I'm not really sure what it's telling me to do 0o' Lol... don't want to start removing parts till I understand how/where they go back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 Well I didnt take pictures as the guy who helped me do it went. If i find time ill make a write up someone else who needs to have this done and is going to do it themselves could document it better as they went though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 *nods* if I have a basic walk through and feel I can do it (cause I need to do it) I'll take pictures along the way and write it out in what will undoubtedly be as simple terms as possible... after all, I'm a simple person lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 I apologize for the long paragraph im going to write but i hope this helps. Well it was pretty simple just time consuming. basically you take those 2 bolts out you can see in the 3rd picture on the first page then you take off the nut on the other side where the second bushing is. After you get the 3 nuts off basically you need to finagle that tension rod out. If i remember correctly you need to just jack it up slightly so its not a full load on it. then make sure u have a jack stand. It might help to do this stuff before you loosen the bolts. Depending on where u live you might need a cheap little torch to heat the bolts up of pb blaster to get them off. Then after you get the small nut off remove the washer and the remainds of that bushing. Then I have to use a crow bar and a hammer to pound the tension rod down off the other 2 bolts and pull it through the hole. Once you get that off you need to remove that bushing and washer on there. After you have the tension rod all off and clean up inpect it and make sure its not worn out or bent. Mine since the cup part and bushings were missing it was rubbing all over inside that hole and caused it to get sort of thin. At that point you can either weld it up to the correct size again and grind it smooth or buy new ones. Also inspect your hole and make sure its not to stretched out. Mine was stretched out quiet a bit so we eneded up welding it up and redrilling the hole again, you might not need to. Now that you got it all inspected and as good as new you will get out the new bushings, and possibly washers. The bushings will also come with a small metal rod that slides inside of them that protects the tension rod from rubbing on hte metal inside the hole. When your bushing go bad it rubs on that little rod alot and eventually wears though to the tension rod. So if you have your cups yet and in good shape on both side of the hole then you can reasmeble the way you took it apart and place the new parts back on. It is kind of a bear getting the whole to line up with the 2 big bolts but you just need to mess with it to get it back on. If your cups are bad then you will need to get a grinder and cut up what is left of the existing cup on both sides if both are bad and go get some bearing races of a-17 and then have someone weld them back on there round the hole in the same spot as the other ones were. Make sure you prep the surface by sanding all the rust off. One you get them welded on put some rust preventative paint over the new welds and cleaned up area also the bearing to prevent it from rusting out again. Then just put the parts back together the way you took them off. If i forgot anything im sure someone will put their 2 cents in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 If you can, jack up the truck and put it on a jackstand, then remove the tire, and use the jack to jack up the control arm so there is no pressure on the rod. I found it a lot easier to work this way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 (edited) you can do it bro...preparation is the key..not a hard thing to do...do as what adam said What I did on mine was I soaked it with pb probably 2 days in a row.Id spray it in the am then in the pm..now come time to remove it try to loosen up the bolts first while its still on the ground. Loosen it to a point that you know its not going to need a lot of torque and yanking to completely remove it. Me ,I hate loosening up any bolts nuts or what have you while a truck is sitting on jack stands..If you feel that its still hard to turn those bolts just keep spraying pb on it and be prepared to use a breaker bar Edited April 13, 2010 by PATHRIDER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 Toby can you get a few different angles of your tension rod? Simular to the ones i posted just turn your wheel and take a picture from the top of your wheel well down at it and also maybe under it on the back side where the other bushing and nut are. This way we can see what is all damaged on ours. I'll try for it tomorrow. I will try to do it before I take my paperwork down to work cause I'm still off because of my hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 Just an update. The bracket itself is fine. I was messing with it today. Tension rod end broke off at some point and time. So I'm going to get some used tension rod ends (low mileage pathy) from the junkyard and try that. Hopefully it works out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 I highly recommend replacing the bushings while you are at it... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 I highly recommend replacing the bushings while you are at it... B I'll do that in a little while (like a month or two). Right now I gotta get it ready for emissions which is the priority. so long as the bushings are fine for now it's cool. The only one that looks bad is the one on that rod but that's because it's out of the bracket. I got a question. Are the bottom bolts on that rod welded to it? Or are the bolts on top welded to the bracket thing? I'm having a horrible time getting them loose and am waiting on my brother to get home to use his air ratchet thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 I think you're Crazy to go thru the trouble of Doing it all again later if you're already going to have to take it all apart to change the Rod. You do realize the Bushings are super cheap right? The Price as of Right now on Rock Auto ranges from $4.60 - $23.79 for the bushings Moog being the Most expensive. For that kind of money I think you're absolutely Nuts to not do it all at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 I'll do that in a little while (like a month or two). Right now I gotta get it ready for emissions which is the priority. so long as the bushings are fine for now it's cool. The only one that looks bad is the one on that rod but that's because it's out of the bracket. I got a question. Are the bottom bolts on that rod welded to it? Or are the bolts on top welded to the bracket thing? I'm having a horrible time getting them loose and am waiting on my brother to get home to use his air ratchet thing. spray tons of pb on it..its not welded on top or bottom (nut)If you cant get it off with a rachet you sure aint going to get it off with a air rachet..Impact maybe break the nuts with a breaker bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 Exactly!! Try heating the bolt with a torch also and beating on the end with a hammer to ring it, just make sure not to fold any threads if you hit the bottom. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted April 15, 2010 Author Share Posted April 15, 2010 yeah they arent welded you will need to spray them and heat them upto get them off it was a pain in the a** the first time i did it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 Strange mine came off easy with no PB at all and a breaker bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 (edited) They came off with an impact gun. Well the one did. Second one I used a breaker bar. I meant impact gun earlier lol. I couldn't think of the name of it for the life of me. I got a new Tension Bar. New bushings, washers, etc etc. I'm gonna get bushings for the other tension bar but I think that one is brand new IIRC. I'll look it over. I had to go to Nissan for it. So $91.03 per side is what it cost me before tax. I can't complain I guess. It'll be nice to drive the Datsun again. I still gotta put it on but I've been running all day so I'm taking a break and having a drink. Here's the old vs new EDIT: Finished. Not worrying about the bushing on the other tension rod. It's got a brand new one on. Needless to say I'll never deal with the Napa near me again. The guy who i talked to INSISTED I needed a torsion bar. Then after I explained the part, he insisted sway bar. When i tried to explain the part again he hung up on me. All the time having a bad attitude with me. The nissan dealer knew just what I needed and had it ready for me when i went to get it. Edited April 16, 2010 by Toby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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