BigBikeMike Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 Hello everyone! I'm back! I've been gone for quite awhile, but now I'm back. The status of my truck is pretty sad. I never got around to doing a lift, the shocks and struts are TOTALLY worn out, my exhaust is falling off, etc. I've been planning to fix it for awhile now, and today I got around to doing it (almost). I am pretty strapped for cash, and was just going to upgrade the stock parts and add airbags in the back for towing. My buddy and I went to the auto parts store, ordered the shocks, and then went down to the stealership to order some springs. They quoted me $175 EACH! My buddy got us an employee discount through one of his friends and they still came to $125! Shouldn't springs be like $50?! Why are they so expensive? Now I see why the lift is so expensive. So now I am just thinking of ordering the lift from 4x4parts.com, since it's cheaper than getting all new stock stuff. The only problem I have is the wheels. I still have stock wheels, but I do have BFG A/Ts. Since the lift will not work with stock tires, what are some good cheap steel tires? Or should I go with spacers? And on the exhaust, does the resonator actually do anything, or just make it quieter? That is what has rusted off, and instead of spending the $100 to fix it, I could just spend a few bucks on some pipe and an exhaust tip and call it done. I don't care about noise, and I can reset the computer by disconnecting the battery, and it will compensate for backpressure, right? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skulptr Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 my resonator fell off weeks ago, then my muffler. the resonator really doesnt do much. the muffler is the big noise reducer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 my resonator fell off weeks ago, then my muffler. the resonator really doesnt do much. the muffler is the big noise reducer. You live in washington and parts are falling off?? All a resonator does is change the tone of the exhaust. Cherry bombs, are technically resonators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 ARB springs $75 ea http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/pathfinder-suspension-c-38_593.html?osCsid=su2od898uabd3pbs57ah8m20s4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBikeMike Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 Thanks for the info on the resonator, seems like I'm going to save myself some money and just get a piece of pipe! For springs, even at $75, it seems cost effective to go with an AC lift. $300 for springs, ~$250 for cheap shocks and struts, I'm only $150 away from the lift kit. The only thing I'm hesitant about with it is getting new wheels. Why are new wheels required? Do the stock wheels rub the struts? Are spacers an acceptable route, or should I just get cheap steel wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 Thanks for the info on the resonator, seems like I'm going to save myself some money and just get a piece of pipe! For springs, even at $75, it seems cost effective to go with an AC lift. $300 for springs, ~$250 for cheap shocks and struts, I'm only $150 away from the lift kit. The only thing I'm hesitant about with it is getting new wheels. Why are new wheels required? Do the stock wheels rub the struts? Are spacers an acceptable route, or should I just get cheap steel wheels? Have a look here for your choices of wheels and tires vs lift and rubbing ... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19867 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 New wheels are not required, just most people like to do it at the same time to complement a more aggressive stance. I kept the stock wheels on my 97 and my 01 for winter use... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzy Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 If your strapped for cash, you can continue to use the tires & wheels you have now. The reason I swapped my wheels, is that I went with a wider tire (as well as taller), that would rub the strut. In the winter I wear my stock wheels on a smaller set of tires. I removed the rear resonator with out any issues. I don't think I even noticed a difference in noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBikeMike Posted April 2, 2010 Author Share Posted April 2, 2010 Interesting about the wheels. The AC page says that they are required. I am rubbing now with my stock set up and bigger tires, but only in reverse at lock (both ways). Maybe I'll try my wheels with the new setup and see what happens. It won't hurt anything, will it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 NO! Go for it, no reason you need to replace... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Interesting about the wheels. The AC page says that they are required. I am rubbing now with my stock set up and bigger tires, but only in reverse at lock (both ways). Maybe I'll try my wheels with the new setup and see what happens. It won't hurt anything, will it? Well you can get the best of both worlds if you ask me. I had the same issue as you do, being tight on cash and needing new tires. So what I wound up doing is keeping the stock wheels, and adding a 1.5in wheel spacer up front. This allows me to run a 285-75-16 (33x11.5) BFG AT. The spacers work out great they give the truck a whole new stance from the front. And the spacers were only like 70 bucks which is the price of one steelie with shipping. Dont let others fool you, THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH RUNNING A 33 ON THE AC LIFT. I had to do some trimming but a dremel and 20 minutes is all that took Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Well you can get the best of both worlds if you ask me. I had the same issue as you do, being tight on cash and needing new tires. So what I wound up doing is keeping the stock wheels, and adding a 1.5in wheel spacer up front. This allows me to run a 285-75-16 (33x11.5) BFG AT. The spacers work out great they give the truck a whole new stance from the front. And the spacers were only like 70 bucks which is the price of one steelie with shipping. Dont let others fool you, THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH RUNNING A 33 ON THE AC LIFT. I had to do some trimming but a dremel and 20 minutes is all that took Well you did have to cut the fender flare itself, which is something some people (me) wouldn't want to do. I would say with only trimming the wheel liner you could fit 32's... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 Well you did have to cut the fender flare itself, which is something some people (me) wouldn't want to do. I would say with only trimming the wheel liner you could fit 32's... No actually you DONT have to cut the fender flare...im pretty sure I would know since im running 33's and all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 No actually you DONT have to cut the fender flare...im pretty sure I would know since im running 33's and all. I thought your youtube video showed you cutting the lower part of the funder flare, right near the rocker panel? Or was that for a different reason? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 I thought your youtube video showed you cutting the lower part of the funder flare, right near the rocker panel? Or was that for a different reason? I did take off a tad bit on the way bottom kinda where it screws into the body but its not even noticeable, unless you're crawling under the truck and happen to look up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBikeMike Posted April 3, 2010 Author Share Posted April 3, 2010 (edited) So, I posted this in the "which suspension package" pinned thread, but I figured I'd put it here too, since that thread is super old, and people have been paying attention to this one I have a 2000 SE with BFG A/T tires size 255/70 r16 on stock rims. 99% of my driving is on road, probably close to 50/50 highway/city. I tow my 6'x10' trailer for work, and sometimes for play, and try and keep it as evenly loaded over the axle as I can. I also have a hitch mount bicycle rack that probably weighs 70lbs that is on most of the summer. It can sometimes hold 150 lbs of bikes, and that is all way over the rear axle. I sometimes go on dirt or fire roads, and rarely go offroading (I'd like to more though) I use my truck A LOT, and for all the snow we had this winter here in VA, I was a family/friends shuttle service. My suspension is TOTALLY worn out, and almost dangerous to drive. I top and bottom out over every big bump, and skip around corners. With all that being said, here is what I am looking at installing. This will be done by a friend and I. (and by that, I mean I will provide the beer, and watch and pass him tools as necessary, he has a lot of mechanic experience) From Rocky Road Outfitters: 2x OME922 Rear Coil Spring 2x OME923 Heavy duty front spring 2x OMDN104 rear shock-medium. From Amazon: 1x KYB 335030 GR-2 Strut 1x KYB 335031 GR-2 Strut 1x AIR LIFT 60742 1000 Series Rear Air Spring Kit The air helper springs were suggested for when I am trailoring. Is there anything else I need? Will this do what I need it to do? And we are going to fix the exhaust with a piece of exhaust pipe and an exhaust tip. Hopefully, after all this, everything will be fixed, it will pass inspection, and I can get another 150k out of it! Edited April 3, 2010 by BigBikeMike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 Camber adjustment bolts for the lower strut mount from summit racing. New OEM strut bearings since you will have the struts apart. I had to replace all of my stabilizer bar links on my 97 and my 01 when I lifted them because they started making noise. The only other thing I can think of is you may want to spend the time to replace the lower control arm bushings while your at it. Just a suggestion, it is extremely helpful to have a 22mm deep impact socket for the lower strut mount nuts and an impact gun. Those nuts tend to be very very stubborn. The bolt head is a different size (19mm maybe?) so be sure to check you have the right sizes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now