RustyButTrusty Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Ok so I'm getting ready to install one of the black factory roof racks off of a 95 pathfinder on my 88 that never had one mounted on it? The rack was attached to the 95 with those jack nut/ riv-nut things? I'm probably not going to be putting much at all or anything on this rack. Will sheet metal screws work, or should I try and figure out what rivnuts and bolt sizes to use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 I'm planning on sheet metal screws whenever B finds the rails I need from his stash of parts... Save the Elmers for dessert! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 BAD NUNYA!!! No hack job or no rails!!! Ehem... The riveted threaded inserts are ideal, but jack nuts should work as well and be cheaper if you do not have access to a rivet gun. IIRC, the 1/4-20TPI Jack Nuts, which are the appropriate size, are rated at 250 (280??)lbs each and should grip a larger diameter than a riveted nut. I have a full set I bought at Napa Auto Parts of all places, and they are plastic coated which helps them seal but I would still use RTV judicially. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyButTrusty Posted March 22, 2010 Author Share Posted March 22, 2010 I was under the impression that jack nuts and threaded inserts were the same thing? I don't have a rivet gun on any of the inserts. So how do these jack nuts attach, and is it easy enough to find the appropriate sized bolts with the right length and flat enough head? Appreciate the insight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 May I add my primary use of the rack is most likely gonna be 2 mountian bikes... It's a pain lugging them in and out of the back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 you need the tool to attach the threaded inserts. You drill a hole the same diameter as the insert,, paint the bare edges of the hole, thread an insert on the tool, dip it in silicone and drop it in the hole. When you squeeze the handle, the tool will spread out the body of the insert behind the sheet metal so you can't pull it out of the hole. It's similar to those heavy duty wall anchors for houses. I paid about $30 for a kit from princess auto here in canada. you can probably find something similar @ harbor freight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Thanks for posting that Nige, I cover the other one... I was under the impression that jack nuts and threaded inserts were the same thing? I don't have a rivet gun on any of the inserts. So how do these jack nuts attach, and is it easy enough to find the appropriate sized bolts with the right length and flat enough head? Appreciate the insight! And here is the all you could want to know about Jacknuts page... http://www.emhart.com/products/pop/jacknut.asp It's really the same as a dry wall insert but for sheet metal. Just drill a hole slightly larger than the jack nut body, put it in the hole, put a bolt into it, hold the jack nut in place, not rotating, by the colar (I plan to use pliers) and tighten the bolt intil the jack nut flares out, grips the sheet metal and doesn't rotate. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 May I add my primary use of the rack is most likely gonna be 2 mountian bikes... It's a pain lugging them in and out of the back. Yes, but I have to believe you like the lavender trimmed White Owl more than doing a hack job like that. Something like this isn't hard or expensive to do right... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 you need the tool to attach the threaded inserts. You drill a hole the same diameter as the insert,, paint the bare edges of the hole, thread an insert on the tool, dip it in silicone and drop it in the hole. When you squeeze the handle, the tool will spread out the body of the insert behind the sheet metal so you can't pull it out of the hole. It's similar to those heavy duty wall anchors for houses. I paid about $30 for a kit from princess auto here in canada. you can probably find something similar @ harbor freight. This is what I got to put the xterra rack on my pathy with. I just haven't had the time to finish it up. I have used these before to mount mirrors on delivery trucks, they don't always work well. Sometimes the nut will turn in the sheet metal after its been compressed. I'm also worried about leaks. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyButTrusty Posted March 23, 2010 Author Share Posted March 23, 2010 Well I got one of the rivet tools today along with some stainless steel screws today at Harbor Freight. The rivet tool was only like $17 and it came with plenty of the riv-nuts. Yeah I'm really hoping I won't have any leaks, although the 95 pathfinder I took my rack off of had no silicone. There wasn't any leaking signs, but I'm going to use plenty of silicone to make sure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 (edited) you shouldn't need very much silicone to seal. Just a bit around the flange of the insert and a little bit on the threads of the mounting bolt. Probably wouldn't hurt to let the silicone dry a bit before you drop the insert in the hole. I used them to hold the end of my snorkel to the roof. They didn't spin when I installed them. I drilled the hole very close to the dia. of the rivnut and i think the little bit of silicone helps to hold it. Edited March 23, 2010 by nige Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Well I got one of the rivet tools today along with some stainless steel screws today at Harbor Freight. The rivet tool was only like $17 and it came with plenty of the riv-nuts. Yeah I'm really hoping I won't have any leaks, although the 95 pathfinder I took my rack off of had no silicone. There wasn't any leaking signs, but I'm going to use plenty of silicone to make sure! Definitely use a unibit step drill to drill your holes. They sell those at harbor freight too. A regular twist drill will not make a round hole in thin sheet metal. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyButTrusty Posted March 27, 2010 Author Share Posted March 27, 2010 Thanks for all the tips guys. Got it on yesterday evening with no problem, looks pretty good too for $19! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 Gotta agree with B unfortunatly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATHRIDER Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 (edited) Thanks for posting that Nige, I cover the other one... And here is the all you could want to know about Jacknuts page... http://www.emhart.com/products/pop/jacknut.asp It's really the same as a dry wall insert but for sheet metal. Just drill a hole slightly larger than the jack nut body, put it in the hole, put a bolt into it, hold the jack nut in place, not rotating, by the colar (I plan to use pliers) and tighten the bolt intil the jack nut flares out, grips the sheet metal and doesn't rotate. B You could also grind a flat spot on both sides to fit a open end wrench or crescent to get a better grip on the head. Wonder if they make one with a hex head Edited March 29, 2010 by PATHRIDER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 just want to add about the riv-nuts or nut serts, there are 2 different types,at least that I have, one is one piece and when it compresses in the sheet metal they seem to hold better, I've had some that have a knurled surface also, the other type is actually a 2 piece insert where the bottom pulls into the top, I have had problems with these spinning. When I had the hardbody I used the riv nuts to install my bed stiffeners and they were on so good (1/4-20 bolts) I swear they felt like you could tow off of them. these are the 2 types I have: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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