laxman0324 Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Yea, the steering linkage is a concern for me too, otherwise I would be interested this summer when I can hopefully get an internship that pays nicely... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Nope, in the US. yea you need to tell us... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCrow Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 I am definitely interested but I have few points to raise : -Shipping cost to the other side of the world ( Qatar ) can you get me an idea on the cost of shipping -The steering linkage is very important to have it as I am living in a place where customization is an out of the world word , ( they only sell parts based on VIN number ) . -I need to have a how to fit it manual again due to the same reason of lacking good mechanics . -I prefer to see a kit placed and tested by someone as I can not afford anything to go wrong being faraway and lacking the parts and support and anything that I need to replace needs to be shipped from abroad . -I am already having the OME coils do I still need to change the coils ? or fit some spacers ? -As for the shocks can I still go on with the OEM KYB ? as I was very disappointed by the OME struts and shocks they failed very very fast . Now if the above is cleared I would be willing to order arround August Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonno Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 Hey, are these things really gonna be available? cause ill take a kit for sure. how long to get one ready for me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavefromOZ Posted March 31, 2010 Share Posted March 31, 2010 I PM'd him last week and he is currently in development, was hoping to have them available already, but they are definitely on the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted April 1, 2010 Author Share Posted April 1, 2010 Hey, are these things really gonna be available? cause ill take a kit for sure. how long to get one ready for me? I know where to get all the parts for this kit as I just put one together for myself; the problem I am running into is getting the funding to get the kit together to sell to someone else; and I do not have that ammount of cash to get it together and then sell it.... If you are really interested in a kit it will cost around $1,187+- a few bucks because I do not know exactly what the shipping would be for a whole kit like this as I had everything shipped to me idividually... I took a educated guess though and it might turn out that I can give you some money back.... Either way I can get ahold of the pieces needed to build this kit just do not have the funds to put another one together and then sell as I just got mine together and spent some good money on it... So if you want you could send me the money through paypal or a money order through the mail and I could start ordering all the parts and when I get them in send the whole package to you..... It should take about a month to get everything in and then mailed out to you; let me know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exit34rocker1017 Posted April 4, 2010 Share Posted April 4, 2010 how are you planning on doing the steering extension? would it have to be welded in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share Posted April 5, 2010 how are you planning on doing the steering extension? would it have to be welded in? It does have to be welded, I would send you a new u-joint and a piece of metal to extend the old steering linklage; it would need to be cut to length and have a local mechanic shop weld it for $20. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddfildvaynes Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 No takers huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COPathy Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 (edited) No takers huh? I would most definitely be interested. While the 2" A/C Lift is great, I'm sure most of us here have been left wanting more. I'm not in the business of creating a SFD on my own.. but if a packaged product is sold I want one! Biggest issues with the Pathy today: 1. Not enough clearance 2. CV axles 3. The infamous topping out Edited April 7, 2010 by COPathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 I would most definitely be interested. While the 2" A/C Lift is great, I'm sure most of us here have been left wanting more. I'm not in the business of creating a SFD on my own.. but if a packaged product is sold I want one! Biggest issues with the Pathy today: 1. Not enough clearance 2. CV axles 3. The infamous topping out Well you do realize that with the sfd it is dropping your whole front subframe down. But this does allow you to run bigger tires which would give you more ground clearance. And you would also still have topping out and the same CV shaft angles ect. Basically its just taking everything keeping the same geometry and pushing it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OfftourRoadie96 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 No takers huh? In all honesty, I was torn between the SFD or a Winch Bumper & Sliders.....I went with the Bumper & Sliders...... REALISTICALLY, It would be another year before dropping another $1500+! I'll definitely get it done thou. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 In all honesty, I was torn between the SFD or a Winch Bumper & Sliders.....I went with the Bumper & Sliders...... REALISTICALLY, It would be another year before dropping another $1500+! I'll definitely get it done thou. Post pics when u get those on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift220 Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 I would most definitely be interested. While the 2" A/C Lift is great, I'm sure most of us here have been left wanting more. I'm not in the business of creating a SFD on my own.. but if a packaged product is sold I want one! Biggest issues with the Pathy today: 1. Not enough clearance 2. CV axles 3. The infamous topping out That's the beauty of the SFD. You can eliminate all these problems! If you use the stock springs, no topping out and no bad angles with the CV axles. The problem with selling a kit like this is the high initial price. But compared to a lot of lift kits, the price is very good. Considering this stuff is all custom made too. I know it took me a lot of time to order/run around to get all the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCrow Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 No takers huh? I am interested and as I mentioned towards August end I should be able to affoard one ,if my concerns mentioned in the above post are addressed . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 I'm the guy Dave from OZ spoke of that's developing an SFD kit right now. Unfortunately it's not going as quickly as I had hoped as family stuff has been eating up way too much of my time the last couple of months. I received a bunch of help/advice from Andrew (Shift220) regarding what he did and how. (Thanks again!) My intent is to initially offer a 4" SFD kit that includes all the spacers and steering shaft piece. I will produce a new steering shaft with two U-joints that connects directly between the gearbox and the steering rack. It will be made entirely of new parts for safety and due to the potential liability of selling modified used parts for such a critical component. I am making a couple improvements to the basic design of the four subframe spacers that will greatly reduce the twisting forces on the frame rails as well as better spread the load should a front wheel or the subframe itself take a hard hit forcing it rearward. I have been a professional metalworker for more than 20 years and pride myself on the quality of my engineering & workmanship. All my SFD parts will be powder coated black. You can see some of the other parts I build at www.vg30.com to get an idea. I am not addressing the rear suspension at this time. I can't afford to have rear springs custom wound and I think that's really what you guys need. Spring spacers scare me from a safety/liability standpoint so I don't think I'll be going there. While I'd like to sell a 'Complete 4" Lift Kit' I just can't do it right now. I think I'll be able to keep the 4" SFD to about $700 but I'd love to come in at $600. It's tough when using new steering pieces as they are expensive! I have an R50 available for fitment and I have most of the materials on the floor to build about ten kits. My intent once these are in production is to keep them in stock, ready to ship like the rest of my products. If some of you guys are interested in a kit like I described above please let me know. I have a lot into this project already and I will bring this kit to market. I have to. My suggestion is that a group of you R50 guys pool some money and have rear springs and brake lines made. I can do a Panhard drop bracket, that's no big deal at all. Rear springs and brake lines are *huge money* for me to buy and put on a shelf hoping somebody buys them someday. If I make 10 SFD kits and they gather dust for five years I'm not out that much money, just a lot of time. Ten sets of custom springs and brake lines gathering dust would absolutely kill me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exit34rocker1017 Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 I'm the guy Dave from OZ spoke of that's developing an SFD kit right now. Unfortunately it's not going as quickly as I had hoped as family stuff has been eating up way too much of my time the last couple of months. I received a bunch of help/advice from Andrew (Shift220) regarding what he did and how. (Thanks again!) My intent is to initially offer a 4" SFD kit that includes all the spacers and steering shaft piece. I will produce a new steering shaft with two U-joints that connects directly between the gearbox and the steering rack. It will be made entirely of new parts for safety and due to the potential liability of selling modified used parts for such a critical component. I am making a couple improvements to the basic design of the four subframe spacers that will greatly reduce the twisting forces on the frame rails as well as better spread the load should a front wheel or the subframe itself take a hard hit forcing it rearward. I have been a professional metalworker for more than 20 years and pride myself on the quality of my engineering & workmanship. All my SFD parts will be powder coated black. You can see some of the other parts I build at www.vg30.com to get an idea. I am not addressing the rear suspension at this time. I can't afford to have rear springs custom wound and I think that's really what you guys need. Spring spacers scare me from a safety/liability standpoint so I don't think I'll be going there. While I'd like to sell a 'Complete 4" Lift Kit' I just can't do it right now. I think I'll be able to keep the 4" SFD to about $700 but I'd love to come in at $600. It's tough when using new steering pieces as they are expensive! I have an R50 available for fitment and I have most of the materials on the floor to build about ten kits. My intent once these are in production is to keep them in stock, ready to ship like the rest of my products. If some of you guys are interested in a kit like I described above please let me know. I have a lot into this project already and I will bring this kit to market. I have to. My suggestion is that a group of you R50 guys pool some money and have rear springs and brake lines made. I can do a Panhard drop bracket, that's no big deal at all. Rear springs and brake lines are *huge money* for me to buy and put on a shelf hoping somebody buys them someday. If I make 10 SFD kits and they gather dust for five years I'm not out that much money, just a lot of time. Ten sets of custom springs and brake lines gathering dust would absolutely kill me! wow, this is amazing. i would CERTAINLY be interested in a kit. however i would want to buy the front lift from you, and would order the rear springs and lines separately so i can build up the money. i like to buy things piece by piece because i'm a bad saver! when do you think this could happen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted April 8, 2010 Share Posted April 8, 2010 Will instructions be available? I am pretty good at piecing things together, but this seems pretty critical to get everything right and I would really prefer directions. Also, is this bolt on or weld on? I personally am looking for a bolt on kit that I can weld to its mounting points after the bolts are tightened and I have taken a test drive... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 wow, this is amazing. i would CERTAINLY be interested in a kit. however i would want to buy the front lift from you, and would order the rear springs and lines separately so i can build up the money. i like to buy things piece by piece because i'm a bad saver! when do you think this could happen? I don't know about 'amazing', it's just fabricated parts! Bits and pieces is a great way to get expensive projects done. I have an impossible time trying to save up a pile of money to buy something 'all at once'. At this moment I don't want to predict a time to have kits in stock. I thought they'd be ready to go a month ago! Will instructions be available? I am pretty good at piecing things together, but this seems pretty critical to get everything right and I would really prefer directions. Also, is this bolt on or weld on? I personally am looking for a bolt on kit that I can weld to its mounting points after the bolts are tightened and I have taken a test drive... Yes, I will provide instructions. Probably with pictures. It will also be virtually impossible to install the parts I build wrong as long as you don't forget to tighten the bolts! What I'm doing is 100% bolt-on, welding will not be needed or beneficial. I mostly build stuff for vintage unibody cars (Datsun 510s and Zs). Welding anything to a frame rail in a unibody chassis is guaranteed to rust out the frame rail as the welding heat burns the paint off the *inside* where you cannot rust proof it. The SFD I'm building won't have the 'walking' or loosening issues that some others have had. The front spacers in my kits will be welded to the ends of a tube so there will actually be a single front spacer assembly. This lateral tube will keep the blocks from being able to rock or twist the frame rails. The rear spacers will be longer than what others have done and will match the curve of the stock frame rail. They'll have a formed plate welded onto this curve so the load at the back edge of the block is carried by a very large, curved section of frame rail. With a typical SFD like I've seen if you smack the subframe hard enough the back edges of the rear blocks will kink the frame rails. I don't know how hard you'd have to hit something to do this to an R50 but I have seen this type of damage in other applications. I'll err on the side of 'extra beefy' on 4x4 parts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COPathy Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 I don't know about 'amazing', it's just fabricated parts! Bits and pieces is a great way to get expensive projects done. I have an impossible time trying to save up a pile of money to buy something 'all at once'. At this moment I don't want to predict a time to have kits in stock. I thought they'd be ready to go a month ago! Yes, I will provide instructions. Probably with pictures. It will also be virtually impossible to install the parts I build wrong as long as you don't forget to tighten the bolts! What I'm doing is 100% bolt-on, welding will not be needed or beneficial. I mostly build stuff for vintage unibody cars (Datsun 510s and Zs). Welding anything to a frame rail in a unibody chassis is guaranteed to rust out the frame rail as the welding heat burns the paint off the *inside* where you cannot rust proof it. The SFD I'm building won't have the 'walking' or loosening issues that some others have had. The front spacers in my kits will be welded to the ends of a tube so there will actually be a single front spacer assembly. This lateral tube will keep the blocks from being able to rock or twist the frame rails. The rear spacers will be longer than what others have done and will match the curve of the stock frame rail. They'll have a formed plate welded onto this curve so the load at the back edge of the block is carried by a very large, curved section of frame rail. With a typical SFD like I've seen if you smack the subframe hard enough the back edges of the rear blocks will kink the frame rails. I don't know how hard you'd have to hit something to do this to an R50 but I have seen this type of damage in other applications. I'll err on the side of 'extra beefy' on 4x4 parts! I really, really like what I am reading. Keep us updated on the progress! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exit34rocker1017 Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 i mean this whole progress and a potential greater lift in production for our cars is amazing! def keep us updated as im sure many are interested! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoPathyGo Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 (edited) May be able to use Wrangle rear lift springs to match the front lift from an SFD kit. That's what we ended up doing for my SAS. Took it out on the highway with no problems. I'll see if I can find the specific model and year data. One thing to consider is the driveshaft angle when doing the front and rear. Edited April 9, 2010 by GoPathyGo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 May be able to use Wrangle rear lift springs to match the front lift from an SFD kit. That's what we ended up doing for my SAS. Took it out on the highway with no problems. I'll see if I can find the specific model and year data. One thing to consider is the driveshaft angle when doing the front and rear. An off-the-shelf rear spring solution would be absolutely awesome! It would save everybody time and money and make a 4" lift much more do-able for many. I don't know how far you can let the rear droop before messing up or spitting out the drive shaft? I'm curious what people have gotten away with? If needed I could make brackets for a limit strap to attach between the pumpkin and body. That way you can use long travel shocks for massive articulation without letting the whole axle droop far enough to wreck havoc on the drive shaft. We do this on Unimogs so the torque tube doesn't run out of travel but we can still droop a wheel two feet further. Several people I've talked to that have 4" SFDs installed have no drive shaft vibration issues. Since we're spacing the subframe straight down both U-joints are still running at equal angles so they should remain smooth and happy. There is no doubt this will increase wear on the U-joints, as virtually any lift in any truck will. If I were street driving a lifted R50 I would put locking hubs on it to reduce wear and increase gas mileage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exit34rocker1017 Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 An off-the-shelf rear spring solution would be absolutely awesome! It would save everybody time and money and make a 4" lift much more do-able for many. I don't know how far you can let the rear droop before messing up or spitting out the drive shaft? I'm curious what people have gotten away with? If needed I could make brackets for a limit strap to attach between the pumpkin and body. That way you can use long travel shocks for massive articulation without letting the whole axle droop far enough to wreck havoc on the drive shaft. We do this on Unimogs so the torque tube doesn't run out of travel but we can still droop a wheel two feet further. Several people I've talked to that have 4" SFDs installed have no drive shaft vibration issues. Since we're spacing the subframe straight down both U-joints are still running at equal angles so they should remain smooth and happy. There is no doubt this will increase wear on the U-joints, as virtually any lift in any truck will. If I were street driving a lifted R50 I would put locking hubs on it to reduce wear and increase gas mileage. hows it coming along? any other progress? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.510 Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 No further progress at the moment. I missed out on buying a complete, non-wrecked R50 for $650 by five minutes the day before yesterday. That would have made fitment of the SFD Kit, sliders, rear bumpers, roll cages, etc. *really* easy. I can borrow my sister's R50 but having one on-site all the time would lead to many things being developed. Maybe what I really need is a local R50 owner that wants some discounted stuff and/or installation who can be without their Pathy for a week at a time? Anybody in the Seattle area fit this description? Here's a question for you R50 gurus: Are all R50 unibody shells the same? If not what did they change and when? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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