kcpath Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 I want to get rid of the fusible links on the battery harness and replace them with regular fuses. Any idea's? What fuse amp should I use? There are a set of orange and a set of green fusible links. Thanks for your suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frecklecolouredbrain Posted March 12, 2010 Share Posted March 12, 2010 Nissan design the system like this for a reason, why would you want to change it? I mean you CAN go to the parts store and buy wires with the proper sockets in them and spend all day putting them in, and then putting them in again the next day cause you forgot something. And then, putting new fuses in every time you accidentally drop a wrench on them, or when you drive through a big puddle. After all that, all you've done is spend $45 to replace something that works perfectly fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcpath Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share Posted March 12, 2010 (edited) I understand your point. But my argument is...why spend all day trying to figure out why your car won't start; all because a little wire has melted inside it's coating...you can't visually tell a fusible link is bad. You can also by fuse housing that is water tight. With a fuse you can take a few second peak at it and tell if its blown or not. Edited March 12, 2010 by kcpath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcpath Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share Posted March 13, 2010 After doing some research here http://www.alanhorvath.com/54chevy/fusible_links.php, I think I'm going to keep my fusibles. Thanks LittleRed89 for quesitoning it...it made me wonder. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 13, 2010 Share Posted March 13, 2010 the fuseable link is supposed to be a "slow burn" type fuse so spikes won't blow it but constant overload will. and the wire is pretty soft and frail once the link burns inside... I'd be interested in seeing how your system worked out tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Channel595 Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 fuse links are a pain. i would replace them if i had the first sign of problem from them. use a marine type battery terminal and then you can run all the fuses to a post on the terminal. i dont see how that article makes sence... so if you have a 30 amp fuse link for your radiator fan that takes 30 amps to run but it takes 60 amps every time it starts up wouldnt the fuse link be melting a little bit every time it starts up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 When a fuseable link goes "bad", there should be a noticeable change in the color of the coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 fuse links are a pain. i would replace them if i had the first sign of problem from them. use a marine type battery terminal and then you can run all the fuses to a post on the terminal. i dont see how that article makes sence... so if you have a 30 amp fuse link for your radiator fan that takes 30 amps to run but it takes 60 amps every time it starts up wouldnt the fuse link be melting a little bit every time it starts up? Like I said, its a slow burn. If the inital draw on the fan is 60 amps that draw only lasts maybe 0.5-2 seconds. that's not long enough to significantly heat up or weaken a fuseable link. But it only takes a tenth of a second to blow a standard fuse. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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