Nytrosfinder Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 I am gonna be looking at a pathfinder tomorrow to potentially replace my rust bucket. What stuff should I look out for Specifically to the world of Pathfinders and when buying a car in general? I know to check for frame and Underbody rust specifically for pathfinders. What else? I know when generally buying a car to find the history of the vehicle- location, drivers, wrecks/damage,smoked/non smoked, etc. What else? Dad is going with me tomorrow to go write a check take a look at it with me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 ASk about general maintnance things, when timing belt was done, last tune up, filters(air/fuel/etc.) Feel for play in the clutch or strange/long/hard shifts if automatic. 4x4 work? The obvious frame rot check. Look for visable hack wiring. strange warning lights on. Theres more, I just can't think o fit yet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nytrosfinder Posted January 7, 2010 Author Share Posted January 7, 2010 Thanks for reminding me about the Belt! I dont need a 2nd pathfinder going on me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Crawl under and look at the muff and for leaks in the tranny engine and rear end.leakage of master cylider and wear on belts,tires.Look at the end of the cigerret lighter,since if even they say its never been smoked in a little freebreeze will cover it up,the lighter gives it away...make sure that all the lights work,ac,blower motor,power windows and so on.Look for oil in the radiator,how the tranny fluid looks and the oil colar... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nytrosfinder Posted January 8, 2010 Author Share Posted January 8, 2010 Thanks Nismo! I never thought about the cigarette lighter! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 There is a pathy specific list in the New Member section.. Yes to maintenance records/questions, crawling the car, checking fluids, clutch, brakes, front end and drivetrain. Test drive without the radio going, windows down and listen, check every light, doodad, door, window, etc. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nytrosfinder Posted January 8, 2010 Author Share Posted January 8, 2010 So I went and looked at that pathfinder-junk- needed to be C4C. Rust, trans problems, rough idle, dings and dents, paint chipping and a few body issues. It's all stuff you couldn't see in the pictures and they didn't list. When I get on here later I will post pictures of it. Bottom line, I'm still looking for a working one, or a rust free donor/parts car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Craiglist...oh and theres a mint fresh 94-95 black model by me for 2900 hundred,like new except the rear frame is rotten... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3DN1CK Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 I just went throught the test drive to buy process. Almost all the automatics I test drove or looked at were leaking or shifted like crap. One of the old timers at work said the at on these don't last much more than 100k per rebuild. I am sure lots of people have gone further but I chose the manual trans for reliability and control. Almost all of them I looked at also had leaky rear main seals. I chose the best of the worst, as I was trying to keep it under $2000 for the truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3DN1CK Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 Oh check the rear lower link bushings for play, if you test drive it and it feels like the rear end had an axle shaft falling out or starts to do the wiggle dance on you it need bushings. Doing those on mine now, just ordered the Nissan Motorsports polyurethane bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 (edited) I just went throught the test drive to buy process. Almost all the automatics I test drove or looked at were leaking or shifted like crap. One of the old timers at work said the at on these don't last much more than 100k per rebuild. I am sure lots of people have gone further but I chose the manual trans for reliability and control. Almost all of them I looked at also had leaky rear main seals. I chose the best of the worst, as I was trying to keep it under $2000 for the truck. The reason the '88-'95 autotragic transmissions don't last very long is due to the stock cooler that is prone to clogging, with a transmission (RE4RO1A) that tends to send a fair amount of debris through the system. It's highly recommended that an aftermarket cooler be added, with a minimum rating of 18,000LBS, and bypassing the stock cooler completely. I left out the '86.5-'87 from that because they use the L3N71B 3-speed which is much better made and barely puts any debris at all into the system for a very long time. My old '87 auto was starting to act up a little at 204K miles so I installed a cooler and flushed the fluid out and it shifted great. Make sure you put GL4 in your MT. Edited January 22, 2010 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 22, 2010 Share Posted January 22, 2010 Also, if you drive a newer WD, make sure the power button on the dash for the transmission is off. I drove one thinking the transmission was on it's way out the door because it would rev very high before shifting and held gears forever. Then I noticed the switch and flipped it back to normal and it was golden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3DN1CK Posted January 23, 2010 Share Posted January 23, 2010 Also, if you drive a newer WD, make sure the power button on the dash for the transmission is off. I drove one thinking the transmission was on it's way out the door because it would rev very high before shifting and held gears forever. Then I noticed the switch and flipped it back to normal and it was golden. Maybe someone can use that to their advantage to swing a deal? it's a bad tranny and the Path isn't worth beans... Lol! The problem with the AT i was driving is they would be searching for gears when trying to accelerate on the the freeway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ac92pathfinder Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 this should be pinned Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now