Jump to content

Front swaybar disconnect idea


Reido
 Share

Recommended Posts

Alright I've been fiddling around with this for a while and I think I got it to a form I am happy with, so it is time to share. This is a homemade suspension mod. so dont do it if you aren't comfortable with it (read: don't blame me :hide:) But it isn't a real critical part and I have faith in it.

 

You will need:

2 Grade 8 3/8" bolts 7" long

2 Wing nuts 3/8"

4 Grade 8 nuts or 2 Nylock (your choice) 3/8"

2 Nylock nuts 3/8"

Dye to match the bolts (standard thread count seems to be 16)

Grinder Wheel

Original Sway bar Equip.

 

Ok first thing is to take apart the original sway bar link setup. You will only need the rubber doughnuts and washers but keep the rest in because you can always switch back to the original setup if you would like.

Next grind the bolt starting from where the original threads end (or 1 and 3/8" from the end of the bolt) towards the head of the bolt for 2" to start with. Grind it as much as the threads are deep so if you were to put a nut at the bottom of the threads it would be able to slide up and down the section you just ground down.

Starting from where you finished grinding use your tap to thread the bolt up to at least an 1.5" from the head of the bolt. And be sure your threads on the dye match the bolt... they may look close enough but trust me they are not :rolleyes:

Two of the doughnuts on each side should be ground down into a cone shape on one side to reduce the force put on the bolt when the links are connected and the suspension is compressed or at droop.

rubber2.jpg

Now to put it all together. The bolt goes head side down through the LCA. The stack of all the equipment will go like this from bottom to top: bolt head, washer, rubber doughnut (unmodified), LCA, rubber doughnut (unmod), washer, nylock nut, washer, modified rubber doughnut (coned side towards sway bar), sway bar, modified rubber doughnut (coned side towards sway bar), washer, wingnut, space, two nuts (one as a jamnut) or one nylock (if you are comfortable with that).

Finished product minus top nuts.

swaybarlink.jpg

The nylock just after the LCA shouldn't be all that tight. The tighter it gets the less the link will be able to flex around which means more wear on the swaybar / bolt and threads. Not to mention a loss of suspension flex when disconnected. The wingnut should be nearly as tight as you can get it and this nut should be checked a couple of times a week as it does slowly loosen and the rubber compresses.

Thats all there is to it. Your new swaybar links are disconnected by loosening the wingnut and tightning it down on the opposite threads. You will notice that later on there are a lot more threads you could grind off because the rubber compresses and the 2" mentioned earlier is just to make sure you dont get to carried away and ruin the bolt. I've been thinking of ways to increase the travel on these and I got a few ideas; let me know if you have ideas too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes it is. I kinda did it on a whim cause I realized that the wires are just the right length as they are. It ended up being a little more work than I planned on, but should be real handy if some puddle happens to be deeper than I think

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah those ac rear disconects would be handy sence im on the street more than im not. i would also like to find how good they are?

Perhaps the better question would be: who makes those "AC" quick swaybar disconnects, and where is the cheaper place to get them??? sssh :X

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dooohh Rami, that sucks !! I'm actually suprised it didn't roll over on its side and play dead... Glad it didnt for your sake :unsure: Did you soak your ECU, and how in the world did you bend your front plate like that ?

 

Bernard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was REAL scareed about it rollin over too. My ECU was toast I guess. I took it out, cleaned it for 2 days straight (while at work) dryed it and I got nothin! I went to U-pull it and got another ECU for $135 (10 dollar core) and put that bad boy in. I didnt get any codes either so I was happy.

 

The reason my plate is bent like that is it seems to cool the radiator alot. JK JK JK JK! I, along with my buddy Darrick with an 86.5 hardbody went down a trail earlier that day and I ended up comming down on somethin that was under water. So the damages for that day was bent plate, cracked fog light, power steering belt came off, and ECU was done for. It was worth it though.

 

Im gonna start to post more and more pics now that im learnin how to upload and update sites and stuff. Its not as hard as I thought it would be.

 

Rami

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...