fusion Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 I know, I know.... BUT... I am brand new to trucks/SUVs in general so have a little mercy for the ultra-newb. This is a good news/bad news scenario. Bad news: My 02 Pathfinder has 115k miles on it and still has the original shocks and springs, which are waaaay beyond worn. Good news: I can justify taking money out of savings for new suspension. Other bad news: I cannot justify new wheels. I plan to use the AC lift springs, either the KYB GR-2 or Rancho RSX struts (Any opinions on these? Are the Ranchos worth the extra $$$? Currently leaning towards the GR-2s.) and either the Rancho RS9000XL or the Bilstein HD5100 for the rears(again... opinions? Leaning towards the Ranchos). My primary question is this... since I cannot buy new wheels right now... will my current set-up work with the lift? I have the OEM "dual tri-spoke" wheels with 255/70R16 Hankook DynaPro AT tires on them. I personally don't know why they wouldn't work but 4x4parts.com says that I will need aftermarket wheels with less backspacing, so I am befuddled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 First off, I would get only the KYB GR-2 Struts, I love mine, the ride is great and they have held up very well. I know some people on here with the ranchos have had big problems with them, so i'd just stay away from them. As for rear shocks, I have heard nothing but good things about the Rancho Rs9k's, I decided to go with Pro Comp ES3000's instead, mainly cuz I was tight on money, and I got both rear shocks for the price of one Rancho, I got the wrong size thinking I would have more lift at the time of install, but id imagine if you got the right size they would do just fine. As for wheels, I have an 01 LE, same wheels and they worked just fine with the lift. I believe I have 245 65 16 tires...but you should have no problems at all, if it doesnt rub stock it should not lift post lift. One thing I would suggest that you didnt mention, is getting WARN Manual Locking Hubs. They are super simple to install, as is the lift. And the hubs will save your cv's and help out with gas mileage aswell as make the steering easier, its money well spent IMO. And the hubs fit perfectly around the hole in the wheel, if you cut it out. Here are some pics of mine post lift. First one is after about 6 months and its fully settled, others are like the day after install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 I dunno if you're close to San Diego or not, but if you get the lift before Dec 30th, I might be able to swing down and help if you wanted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusion Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 Wow. Thanks for the kick-a$$ reply. I am for sure going with the GR-2 struts. Are the pro-comp es3000 shocks adjustable? I wasn't planning on doing hubs yet, will I be okay without them for a while if I keep off-roading to a minimum? Your truck looks great, same color as mine, so it is easy to visualize what mine will look like with the lift.... it makes me happy inside. I am not really near San Diego at all, but thanks for the offer! I am up in Ventura County, North of LA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 No prob dude, you should be fine for awhile without hubs, some on here argue the use for them (do you have the All Mode 4wd-the knob one, or just a manual tcase 4wd?) If so that might affect your choice on getting manual hubs in the future. Even if you're in 2wd your whole front diff and cv's are still spinning, even when not in 4wd, so without hubs there will be increased wear. Butttttt, if you have the allmode (like I do) you might want to stay away, depending on what kind of driving you're doing. The procomp shocks are not adjustable, I just got em cuz they were cheap, id suggest if you have the money to just go ahead and get the Rancho Rs9k's. They will probably be better suited for your application. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 Rancho blows IMO. I'd say for about the same price, go with the Bilstein 5150s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusion Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 Thanks for the info on the hubs. My Pathfinder is a SE so it has the manually engaged 4WD. I think I will wait on the hubs until I break a new CV. The current ones are the originals so I am expecting one to break any day. When it does, two new ones will go on... if one of those break... I am getting hubs. I do not plan on running big tires and I don't do much wheeling. There is an outside chance that I am going to just do new KYB GR-2 shocks and struts without the lift and then throw the lift on next summer, along with the RS9000XL, strut spacers, hubs (maybe), sway bar quick disconnects (maybe), steering stabilizer, new ball joints and tie rods, etc. (Yes, I looked at the 5150, 5125 and 5100 Bilsteins... they don't show any pathfinder applications on their website?). I am deciding tomorrow if I am doing lift and strut/shocks or just the strut/shocks. Will keep yall posted and will document for a future build thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pezzy Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 When I researched my lift, I found most people ran the KYB struts. The rear shocks were split between the ranchos & bilstiens... I chose the bilstiens based on some recommendations that they last longer than the ranchos. Have no issues with my choices. I too would question why tires & wheels that fit now, wouldnt fit after a lift!?? As for the Warn Hubs, I ran with my lift for a year before I got the hubs, sans issues... I wouldnt worry too much about this mod - add it to your to do list when your budget has room. If you're interested in upgrading your tires/wheels (or when you are going ahead with that) try joining a local Nissan or offroad board. I've picked up used AT's from other board members in the past for a good discount, from people selling to upgrade to MT's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 Are the pro-comp es3000 shocks adjustable? No, they are not. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusion Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 When I researched my lift, I found most people ran the KYB struts. The rear shocks were split between the ranchos & bilstiens... I chose the bilstiens based on some recommendations that they last longer than the ranchos. Have no issues with my choices. I too would question why tires & wheels that fit now, wouldnt fit after a lift!?? As for the Warn Hubs, I ran with my lift for a year before I got the hubs, sans issues... I wouldnt worry too much about this mod - add it to your to do list when your budget has room. If you're interested in upgrading your tires/wheels (or when you are going ahead with that) try joining a local Nissan or offroad board. I've picked up used AT's from other board members in the past for a good discount, from people selling to upgrade to MT's. No, they are not. B Thanks for all the info guys! Update: I am actually going to hold off on the lift until I can do it right (springs, spacers, hubs, wheels, etc). Hopefully that will be this summer. So for now, the ride is going to get new KYB GR-2s all around. I found a set of all four, shipped to my door, for $177. My question: what other parts do I need to replace to ensure safe use for another 100k miles? I know I need to replace the bearings and any rubber parts. Do I need to replace all the nuts, bolts and washers? What else should I replace? Spring seat? Insulator? Strut bracket? Spacers? Do the new KYB struts come with boots? Thanks for all the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01silvapathy Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 I hope you didnt buy 4 struts, you only have 2, one each side in the front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusion Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 I hope you didnt buy 4 struts, you only have 2, one each side in the front The set was for two struts and two of the appropriate shocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
180sx Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 I know what you meant!! Haha. But, If you replace the struts, it's probably a good idea to get new Upper strut mounts (OEM ones, not cheap ones and especially not the KYB spherical bearings and mounts!). As for the rear control arms, you might have to get all new bolts/nuts/washers for it (its recommended to do so anyway). And as for a previous comment you made about a steering stabalizer, I don't know how you plan on using this (since we have a rack & pinion setup) but I don't think they even make this for our R50's, or any R&P setup at that (or IFS even). Jose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fusion Posted December 22, 2009 Author Share Posted December 22, 2009 I know what you meant!! Haha. But, If you replace the struts, it's probably a good idea to get new Upper strut mounts (OEM ones, not cheap ones and especially not the KYB spherical bearings and mounts!). As for the rear control arms, you might have to get all new bolts/nuts/washers for it (its recommended to do so anyway). And as for a previous comment you made about a steering stabalizer, I don't know how you plan on using this (since we have a rack & pinion setup) but I don't think they even make this for our R50's, or any R&P setup at that (or IFS even). Jose I am gonna wait til I have the KYB stuff I ordered, then disassemble and decide what to re-use and what to replace. Not using KYB for anything other then the struts, shocks and boots. OEM for anything that gets replaced. As for the stabilizer, clearly I do not understand the R50 that well. I've only had her less then two weeks and the only thing I did was change the headlight fluid and tuned the wipers. Glad to hear it doesn't have/need one, more money for other things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Thanks for the info on the hubs. My Pathfinder is a SE so it has the manually engaged 4WD. I think I will wait on the hubs until I break a new CV. The current ones are the originals so I am expecting one to break any day. When it does, two new ones will go on... if one of those break... I am getting hubs. I do not plan on running big tires and I don't do much wheeling. There is an outside chance that I am going to just do new KYB GR-2 shocks and struts without the lift and then throw the lift on next summer, along with the RS9000XL, strut spacers, hubs (maybe), sway bar quick disconnects (maybe), steering stabilizer, new ball joints and tie rods, etc. (Yes, I looked at the 5150, 5125 and 5100 Bilsteins... they don't show any pathfinder applications on their website?). I am deciding tomorrow if I am doing lift and strut/shocks or just the strut/shocks. Will keep yall posted and will document for a future build thread. Yeah, the Bilstein website is weird like that. Here's where I found mine: https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=435_413_109_273_357&products_id=1926 As for the sway bar disconnects, I'd say don't bother. With the lift coils, the ride really stiffens up in terms of rear sway. I took my rear sway bar out and sway/roll felt virtually the same as when they were installed. Also, you'll be able to enjoy more flex with those removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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