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Pulling A A/t


nismothunder
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Ok so I'm pulling the auto tranny in my 95 tomarrow for disasebley,but before so I plan on trying one more thing.

But I need too know if there are any secretes to doing this,like should I just jack up the front or both the front and rear.

And looking in my chilten manuel it looks like the t-case shifter lever is a big PITA...is it so...thanks for any help...

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I've only pulled a manual not an AT, but I say 2 things...

 

1) Jack up all 4 corners. Give yourself room to work and remember, these trannys are large.

2) Search!!! :D You are not the first to have questions about this. See what you can find, and then ask... ;)

 

B

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You'll need to disconnect the torsion bars, and I believe there are 2 top bolts on the bell housing that you can get to through an access plate in the cabin.

 

Also make sure you have a good transmission jack, these transmissions are extremely heavy for their size.

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Man your the most help full guy on this site...what you still owe me a cd dont you...?

Not the most helpful, but yeah, I try. About the CD... CRAP!!! Ok, I'm off this week so I have the time and I just wrote it on my calendar so I won't forget again... :hide:

 

B

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Also make sure you have a good transmission jack, these transmissions are extremely heavy for their size.

If you have a compact household winch, you can use it instead of a transmission jack.

Assume we have tranny shifters removed already. Borrow a small winch somewhere. Lower front door windows all the way down. Tilt steering wheel down to the max. Close front doors.

Take a strong (1.5 inch) steel gas pipe or something similar. Lay it into window openings, so pipe will be placed between dashboard and steering wheel (over the steering column). Use wood block spacers between door and pipe to prevent door scratching and interior ripping.

Hook up winch to a pipe above the access plate. Suspend tranny on a winch cable. Now you are ready to unbolt tranny and carefully lower it to the ground. Installation will be done in reverse order. :)

This setup was successfully used last summer when I replaced clutch on my truck. Automatic or manual gearbox - can't see the difference...

Gearbox with transfer case weights approximately 80-100 kg. So, don't ever try to hold it by hands, without jack or winch support.

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That gets me thinking........I'm sure I could run a pulley to the beam in my garage, run my winch cable through that, from my bumper, then down through the sunroof (glass removed, of course :tongue:) and do virtually the same thing as Terrano1992 just mentioned. I may have to try that technique when I finally cave and change my RMS. :aok:

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That gets me thinking........I'm sure I could run a pulley to the beam in my garage, run my winch cable through that, from my bumper, then down through the sunroof (glass removed, of course :tongue:) and do virtually the same thing as Terrano1992 just mentioned. I may have to try that technique when I finally cave and change my RMS. :aok:

Nice idea... But don't forget to stop winch at the right time, or you'll find your Pathy hanging under the ceiling. :rolleyes:

Seriously, be careful. Offroad winch can pull cable too fast under small load. When you install tranny, you need to do very small movements up and down - literally 1/5 inch or even smaller. I doubt you can operate electric winch so precisely.

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There is a thread where someone used a cherry picker in through one of the front doors. It was tight but going well until they released load it (or something like that) and the end of the boom went through their windshield. End of the day, just be careful. I have not run a winch but use electric gantry cranes and hoists and have to agree that it might be convenient, but probably not a good approach... :D

 

B

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From my experiences there are no access panels for removing the top bolts on the tranny. I have always used a combination of wobble extensions and a u-joint for getting to those. That is except for the time that I cut the floor out with a sawzall when helping Beastpath pull a tranny. You will need about 2 feet of extensions to make the job easier. A second pair of hands could save you a couple of hours on this project. Depending on how you plan on lowering the tranny it may be beneficial to remove the transfer case before trying to drop it. That will greatly reduce the weight that you have to lower to the ground. I have also found that putting the tranny on a piece of thick cardboard will make it easy to slide out from under the truck. I'm sure I'm forgetting some other helpful hints, but learning is half of the fun right?

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From my experiences there are no access panels for removing the top bolts on the tranny. I have always used a combination of wobble extensions and a u-joint for getting to those. You will need about 2 feet of extensions to make the job easier.

x2 for that. I did it in following sequence.

Tilt engine back, using a jack under transfer case, to have easier access to top bolts. Remove them, using a long extensions (wobble or u-joint). Rise tranny to "normal" position and suspend it on a winch cable. Support engine by jack and wood block under the oil pan (do not apply force to the drain plug!) and remove remaining bolts.

Also you should remove exhaust U-pipe before tranny removal. No way to pull out tranny bell between U-pipe and body floor, unless you have 3-inch bodylift.

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