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Bending tie rods


GreaseMonky81
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Ok I have used the search function and seen that there is options for center link, ie hooha, calmini, but my question is there anything else that can be done, that is a little cheaper, I am great at building things, or welding up stuff, im just very short on cash right now, and am tired of bending tierods everytime I go out I have even changed centerlinks out, stock for stock.

 

 

Has anyone considered two wheel drive center links and tierods, there set up different

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I hear ya man. I bend tie rods connstantly and consequently I'm going through my TSL's much quicker than I would like... not cheap. My solution - budjet SAS! Even the mildest SAS is better, by far, than our IFS as long as you don't wheel much harder than you already do and keep your tire size to 35" or less. There are upgraded steering components but ultimately SAS is the way to go. Those that are selling there "upgraded" steering suff are going to SAS. http://skagit.craigslist.org/pts/1377459354.html

See for yourself.

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The 2wd Pathfinder setup is the exact same as the 4wd. 2wd Hardbodys on the other hand are different, but they are also weaker components.

 

You could probably make gussets on them, but you would have to be carefull not to warp the inside of the ball joint socket. Our TREs are pretty stout when not put in a binding situation (like the one a worn CL causes). Not sure just how fabrication inclined you are, but you could make your own version of the "Hoohaa" CL. All it is is a stock CL with the ball joints removed and replaced with bearings, you then run a bolt through the bearing and pitman on the one end, and a bolt through the bearing and idler arm on the other end. Since there is no pivot to the bearing, the CL stays in a level plane.

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The 2wd Pathfinder setup is the exact same as the 4wd. 2wd Hardbodys on the other hand are different, but they are also weaker components.

 

You could probably make gussets on them, but you would have to be carefull not to warp the inside of the ball joint socket. Our TREs are pretty stout when not put in a binding situation (like the one a worn CL causes). Not sure just how fabrication inclined you are, but you could make your own version of the "Hoohaa" CL. All it is is a stock CL with the ball joints removed and replaced with bearings, you then run a bolt through the bearing and pitman on the one end, and a bolt through the bearing and idler arm on the other end. Since there is no pivot to the bearing, the CL stays in a level plane.

 

 

 

I could handle making my own version of a hooha, but i am not sure what size bearing, and what size sleeve for the bearing

 

one think I have noticed is when I am in 4 wheel, my front tires flop all over the place, side to side mainly and when it does that my tre, seem to bend last night was both outer's

 

 

Another kinda of the subject question two pathfinders same year my tre angle, is steeper than his

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Your TRE's are bending because of the worn CL's. Get a decent CL on that thing, and your TRE worries will end. They'll still wear out faster than on a truck that isn't wheeled, but you won't be bending them anymore.

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Your TRE's are bending because of the worn CL's. Get a decent CL on that thing, and your TRE worries will end. They'll still wear out faster than on a truck that isn't wheeled, but you won't be bending them anymore.

 

 

See that sthe problem I did put a decent center link on there and first trip out bent both outers.

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See that sthe problem I did put a decent center link on there and first trip out bent both outers.

By decent, I most definitely did NOT mean stock. You need something upgraded. I've killed brand new stock CL's on my first wheeling trip. They simply cannot handle the stresses.

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By decent, I most definitely did NOT mean stock. You need something upgraded. I've killed brand new stock CL's on my first wheeling trip. They simply cannot handle the stresses.

 

 

Thats what I am wanting to do but I am trying to do it myself

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It does solve these problems, yes. They do wear out....but Grassroots was good with me for getting a warranty replacement. It takes A LOT longer for the modified CL's to wear out than the stockers. I ran probably 30-40 trails on mine before it gave up....2 years.

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so does a modded CL solve everything?

 

B i was gonna hit you up to make these for me :tongue::scratchhead:

I will if I can. Remember though, I'm a machinist, not a welder... *needs to change that*

 

It does solve these problems, yes. They do wear out....but Grassroots was good with me for getting a warranty replacement. It takes A LOT longer for the modified CL's to wear out than the stockers. I ran probably 30-40 trails on mine before it gave up....2 years.

Only 2 years?? How rough were the trails? Do you have an idler arm brace? What were the symptom(s) that told you the modified CL was shot? How long was the warranty, the life time??

 

I'm just asking to fill in future blanks. ;)

 

B

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I found the movement in my c/l was the ball on the idler arm side moving up and down in it's socket so I shimmed the gap between the centre link and idler arm with a couple of washers to stop it moving up and down in it's socket,seems to have done the trick.

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