headpeace Posted February 13, 2010 Author Share Posted February 13, 2010 alright so the wire going from the alt to the battery is definintely not 10 gauge, more like 6 prob 4. So the other end goes into some wacky plastic connector that goes into another wacky connector eventually ending at the positive post. Can I surpass the wacky connectors and go straight to the positive post??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 anybody? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 I believe the wacky connector unit you are talking about is a fusable link and yes, you can bypass it but it is not a good idea in the long run. Fuses are inline for a reason... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 (edited) yellow box = wacky connector red arrow = wire from alt pic Edited February 15, 2010 by headpeace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 I'm going to go out and look at mine first thing in the morning... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nesok Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Any time I've ever had a problem with an alternator, I've taken them to a local auto-electric guy to be rebuilt. It might take a couple days, but it's cheaper than buying a re-manned unit, and they ALWAYS work forever. The one in my Pathy has been perfect for almost 5 years, and the one in my FJ40 still cranks out the power after 16 years! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 can anyone confirm that the white wire with the red arrow pointing at it in the pic link above is the wire that goes to the alt? I checked both ends and got 0.2 ohms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I think that should plug into the fusable link for your charging harness... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 yeh I know where it plugs in I just want to make sure that that indeed is the correct wire that goes to the alt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I went out and looked, but I couldn't follow the wire in the harness and my multimeter is at work. I can check it tomorrow afternoon, sorry in the delay Bud. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 alright, so I ran a new 6 gauge from the alt and spliced into the white wire where the red arrow points in above link. Now I it won't start, no power to the interior except the light for the clock in the dash but no clock display , the headlights work but not the blinkers. Checked all the fuses in the fuse box, the one at the positive post, and the 2 I found under the fusible link cap - all good. Any ideas before I do some major cutting to see if the wire I spliced split off to somewhere else between the battery and alt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 let's pretend I didn't splice that wire, would anyone have an idea what to check with the same problem? I looked at the FSM and it doesn't appear that that wire goes anywhere else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Sounds like a problem with the connections at the battery. Sometimes mine would do that when I have a poor battery connection, like putting a power wire to the radio in between the battery clamp and the post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted February 20, 2010 Author Share Posted February 20, 2010 well if anyone is wondering other than me, don't splice where I did, that won't work. If I could do it over I would splice in front of the radiator. Fortunately I was able to fix my mistake and all is good again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daver123 Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 (edited) I had a very similar problem. My thread It turned out to be the fusible link right at the battery, it has 2 wires in it a black and a green and one of them is necessary to start the engine. I also ran a new cable straight from the alty to the battery, it has solved all of my problems. Edited March 21, 2010 by daver123 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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