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'95 4x4 Pathfinder - Several Questions


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I just bought a 1995 Automatic Transmission Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 XE-V6 for $1,000 ! A steal - I think (?) !

 

95_Pathfinder_R.jpg

 

I have several questions.

 

1. It has 167,000 miles on it and looks VERY good - no rust, no body damage, interior is great.

Got it from a older guy who developed Gillain Barre syndrome and can't drive any more....bad luck.

 

Anyway - this fellow has kept no records and said he had the injectors changed out at 95,000 miles - recalled.

He had the Automatic Transmission rebuilt then also - burned out...(?)

 

But - he doesn't know when the Timing Belt was changed - "Thinks" it was around 105,000 miles....(?)

 

I am just foolish enough to think I can change the TB myself ! I am 66.

 

Is/are there any link(s) with the method (maybe with photos) of how to change the Timing Belt ?

 

I am a moderator on Automotiveforums.com - Geo Metro.

 

I work on my Metro and take photos of the job - redid the engine, gas tank, fuel pump, from wheel bearings, manual Transmission rebuild, & more.

 

I THINK I can do the Pathfinder TB, but am apprehensive.

 

Intend to use the Gatorback Timing Belt. How about all that other stuff in the "kits" - necessary ?

 

I would like some link that shows one how to do it - if anyone knows of one or more, please let me know.

 

2. What does WD21 mean when referring to the 1985 - 1995 Nissan Pathfinder ?

 

3. Does the 3 liter Pathfinder tow well ?

 

I bought a wrecking yard Draw-Tite Hitch, installed it and I am hooking up the Converter Box for the lights.

 

4. Is 20 mpg normal for this vehicle ?

 

I put in Bosch Platinum 2's when I got it.

 

Changing the plugs is a bitch.

 

5. Looks like changing the Oil Filter will be a mess - on the side just above some stuff so oil must get all over everything...

 

6. Which engine would this Pathfinder have, the VG30E or the VG30i ?

I have the Chilton Manual for what it is worth....

 

7. I have the right side "tick" as per usual for this vehicle - probably a broken exhaust manifold stud - haven't looked at it yet.

 

276995_Pathfinder_E.jpg

 

95_Pathfinder_E.jpg

 

DoctorBill

 

Edited by DoctorBill
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Heres a little help.

1. go to garage/ how to's / timeingbelt. :clickdalink:http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12828

 

2. refers to the model # not sure if its anything else...

 

3. what do you want to tow? it tows small trailers/ boats and other light things well enough for a little truck. Make sure you put an external trans cooler on it.

 

4. 20mpg is good. I get about 14-16 w a heavy foot.

 

6. VG30E

 

others will chime in some more. :treadmill:

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I just bought a 1995 Automatic Transmission Nissan Pathfinder 4x4 XE-V6 for $1,000 ! A steal - I think (?) !

 

I have several questions.

 

1. It has 167,000 miles on it and looks VERY good - no rust, no body damage, interior is great.

Got it from a older guy who developed Gillain Barre syndrome and can't drive any more....bad luck.

 

Anyway - this fellow has kept no records and said he had the injectors changed out at 95,000 miles - recalled.

He had the Automatic Transmission rebuilt then also - burned out...(?)

 

But - he doesn't know when the Timing Belt was changed - "Thinks" it was around 105,000 miles....(?)

Although I think the 95's were rated for 100k intervals, I'd play it safe and do the regular stuff...

I am just foolish enough to think I can change the TB myself ! I am 66.

 

Is/are there any link(s) with the method (maybe with photos) of how to change the Timing Belt ?

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12828

I am a moderator on Automotiveforums.com - Geo Metro.

 

I work on my Metro and take photos of the job - redid the engine, gas tank, fuel pump, from wheel bearings, manual Transmission rebuild, & more.

 

I THINK I can do the Pathfinder TB, but am apprehensive.

The guys around here told me I WOULD be able to manage it...so you DEFINATELY can!

Intend to use the Gatorback Timing Belt. How about all that other stuff in the "kits" - necessary ?

Im not too sure about the 95's, but when you do the timing belt, all that other stuff in the kit is included so you can get it done and out of the way, so you don't have to rip your stuff apart again......I'd say the kit is well worth the $$ and time

I would like some link that shows one how to do it - if anyone knows of one or more, please let me know.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12828

2. What does WD21 mean when referring to the 1985 - 1995 Nissan Pathfinder ?

Its just a model number, for instance the Hardbody (pathfinder with a truck bed basically) is the d21, and the xterra if im not mistaken is the wd22, and the newer pathfinders are R50/R51

3. Does the 3 liter Pathfinder tow well ?

Since you have an automatic tranny, they tend to overheat when towing big stuff, so if your doing anything that would require trailer brakes, or over 1000 lbs (around 3500lb towing max) I'd HIGHLY suggest an aftermarket tranny cooler, as this bypasses the stock that is prone to clogging, and will save you the trouble of overheating your transmission.

I bought a wrecking yard Draw-Tite Hitch, installed it and I am hooking up the Converter Box for the lights.

 

4. Is 20 mpg normal for this vehicle ?

20mpg city is GREAT, 20 highway is about average, but there are some varying cases, for instance sometimes I get 23-24 mpg highway, but there are some who get less than 20mpg highway...

I put in Bosch Platinum 2's when I got it.

 

Changing the plugs is a bitch.

 

5. Looks like changing the Oil Filter will be a mess - on the side just above some stuff so oil must get all over everything...

Although I do not change my own oil, by the words of others I have been told the starter regularly gets splashed in oil during an oil change.....

6. Which engine would this Pathfinder have, the VG30E or the VG30i ?

I have the Chilton Manual for what it is worth....

VG30E

7. I have the right side "tick" as per usual for this vehicle - probably a broken exhaust manifold stud - haven't looked at it yet.

 

DoctorBill

 

 

 

There ya go! Welcome!

 

I may be off/wrong/stupid in some areas, so take it with a grain of salt!

Edited by OldSlowReliable
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2. that's the platform designation.. old pathfinders like yours and mine and the 2 doors are wd21

xterra is wd22

newer pathfinder is r50

the newest pathdinder is r52

 

3. make sure that you indeed have the aftermarket tranny cooler.. AT tend to die without it around 100k mi.

 

these guys gave you the appropriate links.. there is a lot of good info here.. of course if you don't find it.. you're more then welcome to show us how it's done..

 

66? i don't see why that should stop you unless the walker gets in the way. ;):D :D

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I know this may unleash a butt load of argument, but being that I am an old curmudgeon anyway...

 

Are there any hard and fast preferences for the Timing Belt Manufacturer ?

 

Is the Nissan Belt a better one versus...say the Gatorback Belt ?

 

BTW - Thanks for the link to the TB Changing site - I saved the whole page and each photo.

 

 

DoctorBill

 

If you are interested, have a look at my stuff: Example...Trans rebuild part 1.

 

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=941461

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I've only ever used Nissan Timing belts. I've never heard of premature failure with an OEM belt. That said, I haven't heard of too many premature failures at all, but with it being such a crucial part, I would rather spend a few dollars more for the peace of mind.

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I've only ever used Nissan Timing belts.

I've never heard of premature failure with an OEM belt.

That said, I haven't heard of too many premature failures at all, but with it being such a crucial part, I would rather spend a few dollars more for the peace of mind.

 

 

I was thinking of using the GatorBack, but Japanese automotive stuff is pretty damned good, so I will

probably go with the Nissan Belt.

 

If you look at this site and the Nissan pathfinder Automotiveforums.com site, you'll see quite a lot of

Threads where the Timing Belt broke and "that's all she wrote..."

 

It really pisses me off (who cares!) that automotive designers make an expensive metal machine who's

entire existence depends on a rubber belt.

That just seems so asinine.

 

Why not a direct gear coupling ?

 

DoctorBill

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One theory.....

 

By forcing the owner to change the timing belt, they typically change the water pump, thermostat, and (sometimes) cam seals at the same time. That's a lot of maintenance to parts that would otherwise be break/fix parts on a timing chain equipped vehicle. If you're replacing something as "maintenance" as opposed to replacing it because it's broken, you don't consider that a reliability issue, and it doesn't leave you stranded.

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Lots of them fail... (due to neglect) but not before the reccomended intravals is what I believe Simon was saying. :puterpunch:

:)

:aok:

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Simon gives good advice. Some prefer the premarked belts but I can mark my own. I don't know Gatorback brand so I can't help there.

The change interval for the 95 is every 105k miles or 4 years. I'm fairly certain that the belt on my 95xe with 99k miles is stock...

 

I'll be changing the TB on a pathy for the first time in a month or two but the write up covers almost all of it and there are countless threads about it. I am certain I won't have any problem with all the information here.

 

5. Looks like changing the Oil Filter will be a mess - on the side just above some stuff so oil must get all over everything...

Yes, it is a horrible placement and probably causes premature starter failures. Many of us have installed oil filter relocation kits because of this...

 

7. I have the right side "tick" as per usual for this vehicle - probably a broken exhaust manifold stud - haven't looked at it yet.

Yes, probably. If you remove the exhaust manifold, change all the studs out with the 'upgraded' 300zx studs and have the manifold planed if it is not cracked. Often headers are installed instead.

 

B

 

Also, it looks like your torsion bars have sagged. You can usually easily tighten them back up but you may need an alignment after that...

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oh my... i hope you get into the pathys that much.. welcome.. :beer:

 

Have a look at this one - "the flight of the Phoenix"

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=645309

 

I have a whole long list, but I was worried that crossing over Forum lines, I'd cause trouble.

 

The Geo is a "Toy" car to some - but, it is easy to fix and the 3 cylinder engine weights 50 lbs,

more or less.

 

But 50 miles per gallon regular is damned nice !

 

I am counting on this '95 Pathfinder, though, to get me thru our 2- 3 feet of snow

here in Eastern Washington's winters.

 

This last winter was a really bugger-all snowfall - hence the Pathfinder.

Snow-6-_2-07-08.jpg

I hope it walks thru snow like my old Jeep Cherokee did - my son took that one to the Coast.

Bought 4 wheels and some studded snow tires - I'm ready...bring it on !

 

DoctorBill

Edited by DoctorBill
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Welcome to the Forums :fireworx:

The hardest part of fixing your Pathfinder is OVER... That is, now that you've found us. You can be sure that if there's anything at all, that could ever go wrong with yours, you will find great documentation on it, and in many cases write ups on how to repair the issues on here. This forums is stocked FULL of information of every variety and although it may take some digging with the search function, you can be sure it's out there. You'll just need to learn how to effectively use that search function to get what you looking for. If that doesn't seem to be working for you, then feel free to ask around and as you can see, many of us will chime in with links or useful information. Congratulations on your Purchase, and welcome to our family. Even a broken down Pathfinder is a good purchase in our books.

 

Pretty much everything has been covered but I'll add a few things.

 

1. When I bought my Pathfinder I was pretty mechanically retarded. After a while of reading on here and trying a lot of things myself, I'm very confident now that I can do virtually everything myself. What I would suggest when doing the timing belt on ours, (Since it will be a time consuming process) is spend the extra cash on getting some other things out of the way while its all ripped apart and save yourself future headaches. As you'll read about, you'll be taking off a lot of stuff so it gives you this chance without a lot of extra effort. If service history is completely unknown then I would do the following myself if I were in your shoes.

 

-Cam Seals -(cheap)

-Crank Seal-(cheap)

-Waterpump-(more pricey)

-thermostat-(cheap)

-the little tiny rad hose elbow just off to the left of the distributor. its a little ways in and can only be replaced while torn down.-(cheap)

-Radiator Flush.-(cheap)

 

I used to live by the Breakdown Maintenance rule. Drive it till it breaks down then fix it, but I've since learned that way is FAR more costly then Preventative Maintenance.

 

3. I believe towing capacity is rated at 5000 lbs if I can remember correctly, but as mentioned I would get yourself a after market Transmission cooler. And that goes even if your not towing since the main problem with Automatic tranny's failing is the fact that they overheat due to the OEM cooler clogging up. It's suggested to bypass the OEM one all together. This is a Must if you have an Auto and you want to get a long life out of it.

 

5. Ya the oil filter really is in a completely retarded location no doubt about that. For the price of a few oil changes you can pick up a Oil relocation filter kit from Summit Racing and that issue disappears. A search on this will bring up several members on here who have done it and you can see the craftiness of where each placed the filters.

 

7. The infamous Broken exhaust manifolds studs can be a complete and total nightmare to repair. Quite a bit of time, headache and swearing is usually the case. If your going to tackle this one yourself I suggest a time when you wont be needing your vehicle for an extended period of time and to make sure you use the Newer updated replacement studs which are much stronger. For this particular issue, I would do some searching around in some local shops and get some quotes to replace them all. There is a real danger of slipping off a broken stud and Drilling thru the heads into the waterjacket since there's not a lot of material there. There are MANY MANY horror stories out there on here. so read up on that and make your decision from there.

 

Finally, before you do ANY of this I would do one thing first. Check how bad your Frame Rot around the rear wheels is. If you have a jack stand and can take off the tires, do so and give it a good look. There are a few holes in the frame back there and I suggest poking some fingers in there to feel for Frame Rot Swelling because sometimes its not visual from the outside. There were a few years Nissan Used a Different Type of recycled Metal to make the frames that doesn't do very well in North American Climates. If there's no rust, I'd still undercoat the pig to make sure it stands the test of time. All the Engine maintenance in the world wont save your vehicle if the frame rots out.

 

Best of luck and once again. Welcome to the Community.

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you must be german or swedish or something.. you ain't thinking right.. ;):D :D

 

Yes - German (Belgian) Polish American Indian - Heinz 57... I have a tendency to Goose Step

wherever I go ! I have watchmaking in my DNA. I like shooting guns, also !

...and thoughts of scalping some people has crossed my mind.

 

Maybe this is for another thread, but what is so bad about a direct connection via METAL,

other than what Simon says about forcing us to keep repairs up ?

 

The old Chain method seems more satisfying to my anal way of thinking....

 

What is it, the slight amount of "give" a belt offers ?

 

It is almost 11 PM and is this old man's beddie-bye time...

 

DoctorBill

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Yes - German (Belgian) Polish American Indian - Heinz 57... I have a tendency to Goose Step

wherever I go ! I have watchmaking in my DNA. I like shooting guns, also !

...and thoughts of scalping some people has crossed my mind.

 

Maybe this is for another thread, but what is so bad about a direct connection via METAL,

other than what Simon says about forcing us to keep repairs up ?

 

The old Chain method seems more satisfying to my anal way of thinking....

 

What is it, the slight amount of "give" a belt offers ?

 

It is almost 11 PM and is this old man's beddie-bye time...

 

DoctorBill

 

 

you know i was just razzing ya.. it makes sense but high compression engines tend to have the belts.. tension, give.. dunno.. i'm no mechanical engineer.. a gear would work but at high RPMs... yikes.. watch out.. :D

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Next Thing - Timing Belt Kits.

 

I saw one on E-Bay for $173 postage paid.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Timing-Belt...p4506.m20.l1116

Timing Belt Kit Pro

9704B Gunston Cove Road

Lorton Virginia 22079

Phone: 703-339-7790

FAX: 703-339-6166

Has either a BANDO or CONITECH Timing Belt - never heard of either one !

The Water pump is GMB...(?).

 

Probably all made by our friends in China and relabeled.

 

Then Courtesy Parts has a kit (bundle) for $263 plus postage - all Nissan Parts:

http://www.courtesyparts.com/bundle-timing...cPath=5572&

Looks like it has the "Whole Ball of Wax" as they used to say in Los Angeles.

 

I just hope Nissan isn't farming out its manufacturing to China, also.

 

RockAuto has one as do other places.... Question is -

 

Should I stick to Nissan Parts or go "Generic" and take my chances...?

 

DoctorBill

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you know i was just razzing ya.. it makes sense but high compression engines tend to have the belts.. tension, give.. dunno..

i'm no mechanical engineer.. a gear would work but at high RPMs... yikes.. watch out.. :D

 

As I understand these things, the biggest stress for all the "parts" (after rpms too high)

is when the engine changes rpms really fast

or

when the load switches from driving to being driven (reversal of forces).

 

Is I right or is I right ?

 

DoctorBill

Bill-MelsPortrait2x2.jpg

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Next Thing - Timing Belt Kits.

 

I saw one on E-Bay for $173 postage paid.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Timing-Belt...p4506.m20.l1116

Timing Belt Kit Pro

9704B Gunston Cove Road

Lorton Virginia 22079

Phone: 703-339-7790

FAX: 703-339-6166

Has either a BANDO or CONITECH Timing Belt - never heard of either one !

The Water pump is GMB...(?).

 

Probably all made by our friends in China and relabeled.

 

Then Courtesy Parts has a kit (bundle) for $263 plus postage - all Nissan Parts:

http://www.courtesyparts.com/bundle-timing...cPath=5572&

Looks like it has the "Whole Ball of Wax" as they used to say in Los Angeles.

 

I just hope Nissan isn't farming out its manufacturing to China, also.

 

RockAuto has one as do other places.... Question is -

 

Should I stick to Nissan Parts or go "Generic" and take my chances...?

 

DoctorBill

 

I would stick to Nissan parts. That is what I used when the time came on my 95 and I haven't had any issues. I've heard of people getting after market water pumps and that they were noisy. I personally will go to the dealership for most of my parts, or if I have to go to a store I get re manufactured Nissan stuff or whatever has lifetime warranty. My truck has 280,000 kilometers (about 175,000 miles) and it runs perfectly, and sounds like new.

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One theory.....

 

By forcing the owner to change the timing belt, they typically change the water pump, thermostat, and (sometimes) cam seals at the same time. That's a lot of maintenance to parts that would otherwise be break/fix parts on a timing chain equipped vehicle. If you're replacing something as "maintenance" as opposed to replacing it because it's broken, you don't consider that a reliability issue, and it doesn't leave you stranded.

Not to mention that 105k is considered past the life of the motor in Japan (due to smog/planned obsolescence laws), correct? So why should they care of us round eyes have to worry about changing the belt?? :D

 

I figure that if I change the belt twice in the life of the truck, no big deal...

 

B

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