beastpath Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 ok guys, got another one for ya. Thanks to y'alls help the engine is back together. Sounds and idles fine in Neutral and in park, around the 750rpm range. However, when I slip her into drive or reverse, the revs drop to around 400-500. Furthermore, if I turn the wheel when stopped(in drive or reverse) the revs go down even more to around 200-250 until I stop turning the wheel. I'm thinking maybe the powersteering pully is too tight for what happens when im turning, but does the rpm range in D and R sound normal to anyone? if not how do I adjust it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 torque converter locked up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted June 12, 2009 Author Share Posted June 12, 2009 once I accelerate she runs fine, no power issues or anything, just the low revs at a complete stop wouldnt a torque converter lockup make it have problems when im moving too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 If the MPFIs have them, adjust the fast and warm idle screws Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morningwould Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 Buy a manual. automatics suck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 throttle cable a little lose? idk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted June 12, 2009 Author Share Posted June 12, 2009 If the MPFIs have them, adjust the fast and warm idle screws have to check on that.... throttle cable a little lose? idk i was just thinking that, but that would affect idle in N and P too right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldSlowReliable Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 mine does that too....albeit not so low (i think) but if @ park, and move the wheel, or put it in drive, it does lower in RPM noticeably I figured it was just bogging down, from powering the power steering, and being held back by the transmission.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrano1992 Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 However, when I slip her into drive or reverse, the revs drop to around 400-500. Furthermore, if I turn the wheel when stopped(in drive or reverse) the revs go down even more to around 200-250 until I stop turning the wheel. Check your IACV-AAC valve (and valve wiring too). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted June 13, 2009 Author Share Posted June 13, 2009 will check that too. just drove it for 45 mins or so. it seems to idle in P and N around 5-600 when just started, then after a while(after it gets warm?) idles at ~750 like I said above. should i increase the idle speed? or flush the system with Seafoam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW_Factor Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Throughout the summer, Ive been poking around trying to find out why mine is doing the same. Plugs, cap, rotor, cleaned the MAF, and throttlebody.. Checked and cleaned multiple connectors.. I can take some pics of the little sensors and such pretty easily if need be, because honestly.. Its hard to for me to put the name of the part to where it is on the engine.. (For some of the sensors anyway). Now the TPS is on the throttle body correct? Is this considered the IACV (idle air control valve) as well? If so, thats been checked and good. But same symptoms. Idles great in park and such (it used to idle low all around but through the cleaning and tune up, thats fixed). Put it in gear, and I get just under 500. AC on without the gear and just over 500. Goes to 400 to 450 maybe in gear with the AC on. I know this isnt right. I did the diagnostics with the computer, and it says everything is great. Did the engine on testing as well, with similar results.. If anyone has anymore ideas, I would be happy to hear them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indigent Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 X2 on what Terrano1992 said. That sounds very much like the Idle air control valve. It's connector is the only one in the stack next to the oil fill port that has 2 wires. On the side of the wire that goes toward the engine, check the resistance across the 2 wires (orange and black i think). It should read around 10 ohms. If it checks out good, I would pull the plenum and take off the valve and inspect for some kind of clog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW_Factor Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 X2 on what Terrano1992 said. That sounds very much like the Idle air control valve. It's connector is the only one in the stack next to the oil fill port that has 2 wires. On the side of the wire that goes toward the engine, check the resistance across the 2 wires (orange and black i think). It should read around 10 ohms. If it checks out good, I would pull the plenum and take off the valve and inspect for some kind of clog. So this is not the sensor on the throttle body? Where is this little guy located? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrano1992 Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 So this is not the sensor on the throttle body? Where is this little guy located? IACV-AAC valve located under intake plenum (at left side of engine), nearby the IACV-Air Regulator "tower". It's not a self-diagnostic item (valve failure don't produce any error codes). You can't remove/replace it without plenum removal. Diagnostic procedure: disconnect AAC connector (smallest of four connectors near the oil fill port, it has only two wires). Check valve resistance, as Indigent said. Next, you can start engine (with disconnected valve) and feed 12 volt directly to a valve solenoid (from the battery terminals, using 2 pieces of wire). Engine must immediately rev up to 1800-2000 rpm, while valve is powered. If not, you have a clogged valve. Be careful, don't short wires by accident... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW_Factor Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 IACV-AAC valve located under intake plenum (at left side of engine), nearby the IACV-Air Regulator "tower". It's not a self-diagnostic item (valve failure don't produce any error codes). You can't remove/replace it without plenum removal.Diagnostic procedure: disconnect AAC connector (smallest of four connectors near the oil fill port, it has only two wires). Check valve resistance, as Indigent said. Next, you can start engine (with disconnected valve) and feed 12 volt directly to a valve solenoid (from the battery terminals, using 2 pieces of wire). Engine must immediately rev up to 1800-2000 rpm, while valve is powered. If not, you have a clogged valve. Be careful, don't short wires by accident... Awesome information man. Thank you very much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW_Factor Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 IACV-AAC valve located under intake plenum (at left side of engine), nearby the IACV-Air Regulator "tower". It's not a self-diagnostic item (valve failure don't produce any error codes). You can't remove/replace it without plenum removal.Diagnostic procedure: disconnect AAC connector (smallest of four connectors near the oil fill port, it has only two wires). Check valve resistance, as Indigent said. Next, you can start engine (with disconnected valve) and feed 12 volt directly to a valve solenoid (from the battery terminals, using 2 pieces of wire). Engine must immediately rev up to 1800-2000 rpm, while valve is powered. If not, you have a clogged valve. Be careful, don't short wires by accident... Ok, heres a pic. The orifice it goes into is clean as well. Really dont have a pic of that part, because I used fancy tools to remove it without removing the intake. (2 little phillips screws).. Anyway. Im guessing its just bad, I can juice it with 12 volts and not so much as a peep from it. These do go bad as well Im assuming.. right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Mine has never dropped to less than 500 rpm, even when turning the steering wheel in D while pressing the brakes down. If your engine is all the way down in the 200s then its either the IACV or the MAF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW_Factor Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Yup.. I need a new soleniod.. This one is busted.. Boneyard was of no help, he told me to check the parts houses.. I dont even think he tried to look it up.. I'm lookin at 160 bones otherwise.. Hoping to find a good used one somewhere, hopefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spenceeros Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 Well according to the factory service manual, it could also be a problem with you fuel regulator. I have had similar problems when the vacuum hose from the regulator cracked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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