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Pathy Power


180sx
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Sooooo...

 

I've been wondering about this for a while. The Pathy has like zero power under 2800 RPMs. But once it hits ~2800, it pulls like it just hit boost or something. It's not linear at all. It's been like this since I got, but it wasn't taken very good care of (it only cost me $500, so yea). I've all ready had to replace the valve cover gaskets becuase they were hard as rock and leaking oil on my exh. manifold (I know has nothing to do with it, but you know...) and it still leaks oil (I'm down to the 'L' every time I change my oil). So, I'm wondering if it would be a good time to do a nice rebuild (well, just replace all the gaskets and clean the manifolds and what not). Oh, and it hasn't had the ATF or diff oil changed since I had it almost two years (which I really need to do. Who knows how long thats been done, if it ever has!) and I heard that it's should be changed every 2 years (is this right?). Oh, and the spark plugs have been changed, almost a year ago (got like 7k on them).

 

So, in short, I'm just wondering if this power this is right like everyone elses or is my engine weak sauce?

 

Thanks.

 

Jose

:)

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So, in short, I'm just wondering if this power this is right like everyone elses or is my engine weak sauce?

 

Thanks.

 

Jose

:)

 

My 97 does the same, though it seems to come alive more around 24-2500 RPM. With over 300K, and the abuse it see's as a test rig, I expect no less. But for the last ~100K it's been that way, but perhaps not as bad as yours. It can still tow quite well and is great at low RPM's crawling through the skidder trails.

 

Cheers

 

Jeff

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Is the exhaust system aftermarket? Almost sounds like someone put a slightly too large of a size exhaust pipe in somewhere and its killing your low end torque.

You know I'm not sure. The thing I noticed is that it only has the two cats on the manifolds. Thats it. Then it goes into a 2-1 muffler and then the resonator at the end. It could have been replaced. And the heat shield on top is definately mesed up (held on with t-clamps!!!). So it could have a dinky exhaust on it as a replacement.

 

Check your timing as well, too far advanced, and you'll lose low end torque.

I do need to change my t-belt. I did have to adjust the distributor before when I first got it because the timing was way off. And I'm sure one of the cams is off a tooth. I'm not too sure because I just glanced at it when I was checking my water pump before.

 

Hmm...guess It's time for a new t-belt and water pump. Oh, it has over heated before. Well, almost. The temp guage was on the 'H' line for a minute or two before I realized it. Had a hole in the bypass hose. Now that's a b!@$H to replace!!

 

Jose

:)

Edited by 180sx
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Make sure it has good plugs wires, cap and rotor. check the plug gap. do these first, it is cheaper than pulling the engine big time. Run fuel injector cleaner through it (I do a double dose to one tank if it has not been done in a while). Verify timing.

 

Usually bad air filter and fuel filter affect top end more than bottom end, but if these are due for change....

 

dif/tcase oil should last much longer than 2 years imo. Now, if you are taking the pathy swimming regularily that might be different. I think 5 years should fine but it is more about mileage. Should be a schedule in the owners manual.

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The VG33E is just an underpowerd engine. No more, no less. You can do things here & there but it's never gonna be like the 3.5, sorry. For what I need it does the trick though. If I do another engine swap again on my R50 I'm going diesel next time. Huge low end torque without much horsepower.

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X2. QD32ETI is where the good stuff's at. Lots of nasty low-end torque and fuel efficient! :aok:

 

I think the VG33E could've been way better but it is what it is. If only a VG33DE or DET had been made. :D

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