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Whats The Towing Capability


VOTS95
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If you have not used a 2 wheel dolly to tow a car before...

 

Check the hold-down straps twice before you leave. Then again after a mile or so and a couple of turns. The car settles on the dolly, finds it low point - re-tighten and check yet again in a couple of miles. If still tight, should be good to go...can't check that too often within reason.

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Oil cooler is a MUST.

 

Leave distance to brake, and keep speeds within reason. If things get dicey, pop your hazards on and slow down even more, hugging the right shoulder so you have an escape route if something goes bad.

 

Good peddle control will save you lots with an automatic - don't hit her hard and let her do the work for you... work with her and ease the accelerator and the pathy won't come around and slap you for it :)

 

Above all, be SAFE.

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Terrano NZ towed a Pathfinder he bought with his Pathfinder quite a long ways. I think he only overheated a few times but made it through just fine.

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Thanks for all the additional feedback. Temperatures will be over 100 this week and soon it'll get really hot. I'm going to install an oiler cooler before I make any decisions but I'm probably going to use the Pathy to tow a car. I've towed boats, campers, motorcycles and jet skis but this was quite a few years ago and I was towing with an F250 4X4.

 

There are no side roads through the desest from Phoenix to So Cal but I like the idea of keeping it real slow. During last weekends trip to Cal, I noticed all the vehicles that were towing a vehicle were traveling around 50 mph.

 

I'll post an update on the trip if I use the Pathy. Again thanks for taking the time to respond!

 

BD

 

Maximum speed limit while towing in California is 55 miles per hour and is posted.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I found my project car, its a 1988 Porsche 944 N/A, over in Los Angeles. I'm going to use the Pathy and a tow-bar to get it back to Phoenix. By flat-towing the car, I reduce the amount of weight being towed by 600 to 700 pounds and I eliminate the tongue weight completely.

 

I bought a Hayden transmission cooler, (#678) the installation seems pretty straight forward. Since more is better, do I want to use some compressed air or some type of fluid to clean/flush the OE cooler and then hook up the Hayden in a series connection?

 

What's the opinion / What have others done here?

 

Thanks...Bruce

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Completely bypass the stock unit with at least a 15,000lb aftermarket cooler. If the stock one clogs (and it likely will eventually, and you CANNOT clean it) it renders the aftermarket cooler 100% useless. In that case, you spend X amount of money to destroy your transmission.

 

Last summer I towed jet skis around no problem. I know it's not much, but for a weenie engine it did fine.

Edited by Kingman
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Yes, bypass the stock radiator tranny 'cooler'. Mine was set up in series when I bought it and I re routed it to only the aftermarket unit a few months ago when I installed a body lift. The problem with the stock cooling is that it is not enough (in my opinion) and is prone to clogging, sometimes (fact), so people just bypass it entirely to negate the possibility. :shrug:

 

B

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1- they won't ever let you rent again

2- they could take legal action

3- they could fine you a big big amount

4- if the trailer breaks or something, and they find out you breached contract, you will pay for it, and all of the above....

 

HOLY @!*%! Your U-haul must be run by Nazis!

 

I've NEVER had a problem renting equipment w/ my Pathfinder, even when they "recommended" otherwise.

That's all it is really. It's never kept them from taking my money.

 

I've towed several cars and box trailers w/ minimal incident... I did have breaking trouble the first time out, but that was more about inexperience than towing capability.

 

I'll tell you what though; don't plan on breaking any speed or gas-mileage records! My Pathy doesn't even like to haul a trunk full of tools, let alone 4k+ car/trailer combinations.

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I agree. And I've been told and passed this on many times, it's not the getting going part you gotta worry about, its the STOPPING! IIRC the manual states trailer brakes are reccomended for anything over 2000lbs.

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I agree. And I've been told and passed this on many times, it's not the getting going part you gotta worry about, its the STOPPING! IIRC the manual states trailer brakes are reccomended for anything over 2000lbs.

agreed.....you could haul a car with a bike going down a hill easily...but you won't be able to stop it.....

 

 

and yes. my uhaul is run by descendants of hitler and stalin.

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I've towed a few loads with the r50 (3.3L 5 speed version) and it seems to handle it pretty well. I'm sure the load was over 3000lbs and the factory brakes handled it fine. Then again the rotors and drums are bigger than the wd21's. It was so smooth you couldn't even feel the trailer and it barely used any gas.

Edited by adamzan
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I've towed a few loads with the r50 (3.3L 5 speed version) and it seems to handle it pretty well. I'm sure the load was over 3000lbs and the factory brakes handled it fine. Then again the rotors and drums are bigger than the wd21's. It was so smooth you couldn't even feel the trailer and it barely used any gas.

id imagine it also depends on the type of trailer, the type of cargo being hauled, road conditions, terrain...etc

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Well, I went to LA yesterday morning and pulled the car over to Phoenix with no issues. I used a tow bar like unccpathfinder recommended and it worked out really well. I used a 5,000 lb adjustable unit from Uhaul, cost was $160. Pulling the car through the desert was no problem at all, for the most part I didn't even know it was back there. My gas mileage was 14 mpg on the way back, better than I expected.

 

Prior to the trip, I installed a new radiator and a Hayden #678 trans cooler and I have them hooked up in series. The truck runs really cool now, maybe in time I'll bypass the factory cooler.

 

Thanks to everyone that provided feedback!!

 

BD

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It's hot here already and with the AC on and sitting in traffic, the temp gage needle will rise to about 40%. Prior to the new radiator, it would go above halfway on the gage to about 60%. The truck has never run hot but changing the radiator has only made things better. Thanks!

 

BD

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Check the boot under the 4wd shifter. I bet its full of holes. It will let hot air flowing around the trans into the truck.

Oh, Its not hot air....the t-case lever is physically warm/hot, and the actual plastic and carpet around the tranny bump is the same O_o

 

 

 

But the rubber boot is torn a bunch...but i don't think thats the cause....but now that i think about it, i guess it COULD be letting air circulate in

Edited by OldSlowReliable
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