fukkeneh240 Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 hello, this is for a 1997 4x4 R50. sorry, but kinda long. searched but no exact luck. yesterday i installed new kyb gr2 fronts struts and monroe senstrac rear shocks... anyways while doing the driver side front strut i noticed the outer cv boot was torn. so after i installed all the new components i drove to the parts store to get a new cv boot. side note ... way better drive with the new suspension and none of these problems existed after i installed the new shocks/struts. so after i get home from the parts store with the new outer cv boot, i installed the new outer cv boot by removing the axle and what not. i reinstalled everything and now i have some kind of light constant thumping/ticking noise when i drive... tick tick tick tick tick kinda sound. the sound is constant no matter if i turn left or right or stopping while driving. ALSO i get a second LOUD rubbing noise that sounds like the caliper or brake pad is warped or imbalanced and brake pad is hitting a wobbling caliper. not a metal to metal scraping sound but an "UR UR UR UR UR UR UR" kind of sound. this sound goes away when i make a right turn and does not go away during braking. i took a look at it this morning and noticed that weather/dust shield was bent and making contact with the caliper. straightened the shield, took it for a quick spin, both noises are still there. then inspected the brakes and they seemed fine, even took off the caliper thinking the shims could be off. reinstalled the brakes and took it for a spin and still the same noise. did i screw up cv axle installation or something? every appears fine and nothing is loose. is there some kind of special way to replace the boot that is model specific for the R50? the old boot was about 6 inches long, and the new boot is about 4 inches. I did notice that the lower ball joint (i think that is what it is, connects the bottom of the caliper to the suspension arm) was leaking a bit of grease, but my dad said that wouldn't cause the noise. Driving the car feels fine, and only problem is the annoying noise. the best search result i found was repacking of the wheel bearing?? i doubt that would be it though. any help please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 hello, this is for a 1997 4x4 R50. sorry, but kinda long. searched but no exact luck. yesterday i installed new kyb gr2 fronts struts and monroe senstrac rear shocks... anyways while doing the driver side front strut i noticed the outer cv boot was torn. so after i installed all the new components i drove to the parts store to get a new cv boot. side note ... way better drive with the new suspension and none of these problems existed after i installed the new shocks/struts. so after i get home from the parts store with the new outer cv boot, i installed the new outer cv boot by removing the axle and what not. i reinstalled everything and now i have some kind of light constant thumping/ticking noise when i drive... tick tick tick tick tick kinda sound. the sound is constant no matter if i turn left or right or stopping while driving. ALSO i get a second LOUD rubbing noise that sounds like the caliper or brake pad is warped or imbalanced and brake pad is hitting a wobbling caliper. not a metal to metal scraping sound but an "UR UR UR UR UR UR UR" kind of sound. this sound goes away when i make a right turn and does not go away during braking. i took a look at it this morning and noticed that weather/dust shield was bent and making contact with the caliper. straightened the shield, took it for a quick spin, both noises are still there. then inspected the brakes and they seemed fine, even took off the caliper thinking the shims could be off. reinstalled the brakes and took it for a spin and still the same noise. did i screw up cv axle installation or something? every appears fine and nothing is loose. is there some kind of special way to replace the boot that is model specific for the R50? the old boot was about 6 inches long, and the new boot is about 4 inches. I did notice that the lower ball joint (i think that is what it is, connects the bottom of the caliper to the suspension arm) was leaking a bit of grease, but my dad said that wouldn't cause the noise. Driving the car feels fine, and only problem is the annoying noise. the best search result i found was repacking of the wheel bearing?? i doubt that would be it though. any help please? i just jacked uo my truck today to luck at my cvs and one of the one's that was broken made a loud clicking noise. but the cvs shouldn't be turning if you're in 2 wheel drive.You sure the hubs are unlocked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 i just jacked uo my truck today to luck at my cvs and one of the one's that was broken made a loud clicking noise. but the cvs shouldn't be turning if you're in 2 wheel drive.You sure the hubs are unlocked? There are no hubs on an R50, the CVs constantly spin whether you're in 2 or 4WD. It engages and disengages from the transfer case only, not the combination of transfer case+hubs like a WD21. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 There are no hubs on an R50, the CVs constantly spin whether you're in 2 or 4WD. It engages and disengages from the transfer case only, not the combination of transfer case+hubs like a WD21. oh. i know nothing about the r50s.haha sorry for the misinformation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fukkeneh240 Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share Posted March 22, 2009 okay just took it for a short spin to drop the misses off at the bus stop, that tick tick tick sound is more like a quiet thud thud thud sound; and that ur ur ur ur sound is ur ur urrrrRRrrr ur ur ur ur then quiet then Urr ur ur ... haha, sorry for the bad description. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tekazgtr1984 Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 There are no hubs on an R50, the CVs constantly spin whether you're in 2 or 4WD. It engages and disengages from the transfer case only, not the combination of transfer case+hubs like a WD21. Yup, no hubs on the stock R50. Just drive flanges... You mentioned only replacing the boot... It could be possible the CV axle itself is damaged or covered in debris, effectively causing unwanted noises. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keelhaul Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 One of my outer cv boot clamps fell off so i put a new one on and the crimped part was too high which caused it to hit the ball joint area every revolution. I hammered it down and no more noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fukkeneh240 Posted March 23, 2009 Author Share Posted March 23, 2009 One of my outer cv boot clamps fell off so i put a new one on and the crimped part was too high which caused it to hit the ball joint area every revolution. I hammered it down and no more noise. there is no excess metal from the clamp. i dont think i could have damaged the cv axle unless the R50 axle are supremely weak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I was thinking the ring clamp as well hitting the ball joint. Double check that all the bolts on the inner side are tight....it could be flopping around a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dankman911 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 Did you loosen the bearing locknut @ any point during the strut/cv boot install? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fukkeneh240 Posted March 23, 2009 Author Share Posted March 23, 2009 Did you loosen the bearing locknut @ any point during the strut/cv boot install? the wheel bearing lock nut? no. just slid out the cv axle, disassembled cv to put on new boot, reassembled, and then slid the cv back into the caliper/bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 the wheel bearing lock nut? no. just slid out the cv axle, disassembled cv to put on new boot, reassembled, and then slid the cv back into the caliper/bearing. Just curious to know: how did you "slide out the CV axle"? Did you make sure the seals and bushings were properly replaced? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fukkeneh240 Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 Just curious to know: how did you "slide out the CV axle"? Did you make sure the seals and bushings were properly replaced? well after i removed the outermost snap ring, pretty much tapped the axle a bit (like it states in the FSM page FA-17) and the rest just slid out. seals and bushings? i did not take apart the bearing. the thrust washer was on the correct way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 (edited) well after i removed the outermost snap ring, pretty much tapped the axle a bit (like it states in the FSM page FA-17) and the rest just slid out. seals and bushings? i did not take apart the bearing. the thrust washer was on the correct way. Hmmm. I guess you replaced the axle while you had the knuckle unbolted from the strut, right? Are you sure you reassembled the outer CV joint correctly when you put on the new boot? One way to tell if it's the CV axle or something else causing your noise is to remove the drive flanges from both front wheels (so that the front axles don't rotate with the wheels). If the noise goes away, then the problem is likely the CV axle. Perhaps the outer joint is worn because the boot was cracked and the joint lost too much grease. Edited March 24, 2009 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fukkeneh240 Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 Hmmm. I guess you replaced the axle while you had the knuckle unbolted from the strut, right? Are you sure you reassembled the outer CV joint correctly when you put on the new boot? One way to tell if it's the CV axle or something else causing your noise is to remove the drive flanges from both front wheels (so that the front axles don't rotate with the wheels). If the noise goes away, then the problem is likely the CV axle. Perhaps the outer joint is worn because the boot was cracked and the joint lost too much grease. yeah i had the knuckle unbolted. I didn't loose that much grease. it split while i was changing the strut and when i took off the boot, about 98% was still there. so would you think from the method i used to take out the axle from the bearing/rotor that the bearing is fine. if its just the CV, i may as well install a new one as they are only $100 new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 (edited) yeah i had the knuckle unbolted. I didn't loose that much grease. it split while i was changing the strut and when i took off the boot, about 98% was still there. so would you think from the method i used to take out the axle from the bearing/rotor that the bearing is fine. if its just the CV, i may as well install a new one as they are only $100 new. As you said, you didn't touch the hub or bearings. The noise is likely your CV axle, but the best thing to do to confirm this, as I said before, is to remove both drive flanges, take a short drive around the block, and see if the problem goes away. If it does, then it's definitely the CV. If not, well then good thing you haven't spent an unnecessary $100, and more troubleshooting will be needed. And in case you haven't checked yet, look for a rock, nail, etc. that might be stuck in the tire tread, causing the tick tick tick sound. Edited March 24, 2009 by XPLORx4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 And in case you haven't checked yet, look for a rock, nail, etc. that might be stuck in the tire tread, causing the tick tick tick sound It would be a good one if it ends up being this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fukkeneh240 Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 It would be a good one if it ends up being this.... haha. definately not a rock. i bought the cv axle just in case. if i dont use i can return. but i think i will just reinspect everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 (edited) That ur ur ur ur urrrur ur ur ur sounds to me like a bad or dry wheel bearing. In an old S10 blazer this noise permiates the whole truck...maybe its the frame thing. Other than that, I too am sticking with XPLORx4 that maybe the cv is just serviced out. Edited March 25, 2009 by 02silverpathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fukkeneh240 Posted March 26, 2009 Author Share Posted March 26, 2009 just an update. after work yesterday i inspected the everything, nothing was rubbing. I tried to shake the wheel and tugged and pushed on whatever i could, but everything was firm. then I took out the cv axle. everything again appeared fine and then i re-installed the old axle and everything else. went for a drive and that UR UR UR UR UR sound went away BUT that thud thud thud sound is still there. it's not so bad when i make left turns. but right turns and going straight it's kinda loud thud thud thud noise. my dad said its probable the axle, so today (if it doesnt rain) im going to replace the axle with a new one and see how that goes.. man on a weird note, when i bolt the axle onto the final drive, i can easily turn the cv axle when about 4 bolts are screwed in, BUT when i bolt the last two, the cv axle becomes more difficult to turn. iono... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 just an update. after work yesterday i inspected the everything, nothing was rubbing. I tried to shake the wheel and tugged and pushed on whatever i could, but everything was firm. then I took out the cv axle. everything again appeared fine and then i re-installed the old axle and everything else. went for a drive and that UR UR UR UR UR sound went away BUT that thud thud thud sound is still there. it's not so bad when i make left turns. but right turns and going straight it's kinda loud thud thud thud noise. my dad said its probable the axle, so today (if it doesnt rain) im going to replace the axle with a new one and see how that goes.. man on a weird note, when i bolt the axle onto the final drive, i can easily turn the cv axle when about 4 bolts are screwed in, BUT when i bolt the last two, the cv axle becomes more difficult to turn. iono... To isolate whether the issue is really the CV axle, I would really strongly recommend that you remove both front drive flanges so that the front drivetrain doesn't spin when you drive. Otherwise you're just wasting your time. If the sounds completely go away, then you know it's the CV axle, and definitely not related to the wheels, brakes, bearings, etc. If the sounds continue even with the drive flanges removed, then it's NOT the CV axles, and you need to focus your attention on other moving parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fukkeneh240 Posted March 27, 2009 Author Share Posted March 27, 2009 fixed. when i took out the cv, the cap at the final drive end was dented out at the centre, so i guess the axles were not joined together deep enough. put the new one in and drives like a dream. man i love the kyb gr2's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now