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need help identifying this broken part


ticker
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saw this this morning. I have no idea of its function or what it may be called. Any ideas? It is broken off the diff and is attached via a spring to what looks to be some type of switch. 98 se manual transmission, LSD(i think)

 

Thanks

 

ps-could the sticker on the diff be THE sticker, its not orange but its there and this is supposed to have a LSD

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I took a quick scan through the 99 FSM and didn't see anything that jumped out.

Its for the traction control system or load leveling, the 1st gen pathys had something like that, would have to look through the FSM to figure it out. when the rig is under a heavy load or acceleration the rear end squats and thus activates the switch...

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Its for the traction control system or load leveling, the 1st gen pathys had something like that, would have to look through the FSM to figure it out. when the rig is under a heavy load or acceleration the rear end squats and thus activates the switch...

I haven't confirmed this myself but I believe it is for a load-sensing brake proportioning valve. Basically, the greater the load on your rear axle, the more brake bias towards the rear brakes.

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the orange sitcker is usulally oval in shape isn't it?

try jacking up one side turning 1 wheel (ebrake off, tranny in N) it the driveshaft turns when you turn the wheel its open, if it wont budge its LSD

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the orange sitcker is usulally oval in shape isn't it?

try jacking up one side turning 1 wheel (ebrake off, tranny in N) it the driveshaft turns when you turn the wheel its open, if it wont budge its LSD

 

duhh ?? :shrug:

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the orange sitcker is usulally oval in shape isn't it?

try jacking up one side turning 1 wheel (ebrake off, tranny in N) it the driveshaft turns when you turn the wheel its open, if it wont budge its LSD

 

 

lol, are you in the wrong thread? :scratchhead:

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ps-could the sticker on the diff be THE sticker, its not orange but its there and this is supposed to have a LSD
the orange sitcker is usulally oval in shape isn't it?

try jacking up one side turning 1 wheel (ebrake off, tranny in N) it the driveshaft turns when you turn the wheel its open, if it wont budge its LSD

lol, are you in the wrong thread? :scratchhead:

he was askin 'bout the lsd sticker

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Brake proportioning valve. ;)

 

Cool it now has a name, thanks

ah yes.. there it is.. in the Brake's section.

 

post-85-1234901770_thumb.jpg

sweet, thanks for the reference

 

the orange sitcker is usulally oval in shape isn't it?

try jacking up one side turning 1 wheel (ebrake off, tranny in N) it the driveshaft turns when you turn the wheel its open, if it wont budge its LSD

thanks, I know how to check, I've just never seen the orange sticker in person since there was a sticker on the diff I thought I would ask.

 

So, Brake proportioning valve, huh. What weird thing to break. How important is this that it gets fixed?

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If it just bolts to the diff, should be easy to fix.

yeah it looks super easy to fix, i was wondering if it is a safety issue. I asked the guys at nissan north to price out the part for me, so hopefuly it won't be too much.

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Cool it now has a name, thanks

 

sweet, thanks for the reference

thanks, I know how to check, I've just never seen the orange sticker in person since there was a sticker on the diff I thought I would ask.

 

So, Brake proportioning valve, huh. What weird thing to break. How important is this that it gets fixed?

 

 

it increases rear brake pressure when the rear is squatting (heavy load), and decreases pressure when the rear is lifting (heavy braking). the latter is somewhat important because you don't want the rear tires to lock up under heavy braking, when dynamic weight transfer puts most of the weight on the front axle (and the nose drops). less weight on the rear axle, with the same brake pressure, means you will lockup your rear tires more easily; and the front brakes will not be getting as much braking power as they're capable of exerting on the brakes/tires. the fronts do most of the work.

 

it should be an easy fix. just remove the snapped off piece, drill the piece that's dangling and re-bolt it to the diff. or you can go to a junkyard/pick-a-part and get the piece for a few bucks.

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yeah it looks super easy to fix, i was wondering if it is a safety issue. I asked the guys at nissan north to price out the part for me, so hopefuly it won't be too much.

 

 

they'll probably only sell you the entire kit, not just the broken piece, so it will be expensive. your best bet is to get a used piece from a junkyard, if you insist on OEM.

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it increases rear brake pressure when the rear is squatting (heavy load), and decreases pressure when the rear is lifting (heavy braking). the latter is somewhat important because you don't want the rear tires to lock up under heavy braking, when dynamic weight transfer puts most of the weight on the front axle (and the nose drops). less weight on the rear axle, with the same brake pressure, means you will lockup your rear tires more easily; and the front brakes will not be getting as much braking power as they're capable of exerting on the brakes/tires. the fronts do most of the work.

 

it should be an easy fix. just remove the snapped off piece, drill the piece that's dangling and re-bolt it to the diff. or you can go to a junkyard/pick-a-part and get the piece for a few bucks.

Nice, I like this this idea. Option 1 will be drilling and re attaching. Pick and pull sounds good but I've never seen an r50 at any of the local ones :angry:

 

 

they'll probably only sell you the entire kit, not just the broken piece, so it will be expensive. your best bet is to get a used piece from a junkyard, if you insist on OEM.

I just got a quote from a out of town dealer $259 for the whole assembly. :thumbsdown: Ouch! I cant seem to find it on any other parts sites.

 

Thanks for the advice ;)

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Or just go but a piece of Bar stock, drill 2 holes in one end, and 1 in the other, bolt it to the diff, and hook the spring through the single hole.

 

Looks to me like it's physically fractured all the way across the bracket. Personally, I would weld it back together with its mating piece. If you don't have access to your own welder, try a local exhaust shop. They will probably be able to weld it together for a handful of dollars. (cash, of course).

 

SteveM.

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probably not good just to drill and mount the dangling piece. That would change the geometry. I would reco either reattaching the two pieces or fabbing something that will mount and put the spring anchor point at the same location as the original.

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Yeah, after close inspection drilling it out is not an option anyway. There isn't enough meat left on that end there to work with. I don't think I can fab one out of Bar stock either because of the way it curves around the diff.

BTW the local Nissan dealer got back to me with a quote of $316 for the entire assembly. Being unemployed currently I don't think that is going to happen. I'm going to take off the piece that is still bolted to the diff and see what it looks like and see if I can get it welded together.

 

Thanks for all the help

-T

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Yeah, after close inspection drilling it out is not an option anyway. There isn't enough meat left on that end there to work with. I don't think I can fab one out of Bar stock either because of the way it curves around the diff.

BTW the local Nissan dealer got back to me with a quote of $316 for the entire assembly. Being unemployed currently I don't think that is going to happen. I'm going to take off the piece that is still bolted to the diff and see what it looks like and see if I can get it welded together.

 

Thanks for all the help

-T

 

 

most junkyards keep their parts inventoried these days, so all it takes is a simple phone call to see if they have what you need. it's a 'load-sensing brake proportioning valve.' i can't imagine the whole assembly costing more than $50, so that little bracket should be $5-10, if not free. if you have a pick-a-part near you (a self-serve type of junkyard), it would be even cheaper.

 

as far as welding, any exhaust shop (or a friend who can weld) should be able to do it for you for $5-10 as well. :)

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here either. We have about 10 pathys in various states of disassembly but no R50's. Guess they consider them disposable with that unibody construction

 

They always have Cherokars and Grand Cherokars, maybe they just break more often.

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