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Master Cylinder Question


zeppelindrummer
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I was out night wheeling a couple days ago, and all of the sudden, my brakes went to the floor. I wasn't quite sure what had happened so i slowly headed to a flat place where i could check all of my lines. I got out the flashlight, and there wasn't any leaking to be found. Has to be the Master Cylinder...

 

My friend in his Toyota pickup and I drove back to the dorms, downshifting as my way of stopping.... and Mikey in his truck in front of me incase i had to.... use him as a brake.

 

After popping the hood, i could tell the Master Cylinder had gone. Fluid hadn't dripped everywhere, but it was all over the master cylinder itself and around it, and the leaked fluid had attracted alot of fresh dust.

 

The auto stores around here didn't have any new master cylinders in stock, so i went to the "All Trucks Parts" junkyard down the road, and got a new Master Cylinder. Everything looked right, but the holes don't match up, and its obviously for a newer year, (mine being an 87)

 

Kinda pissed, cuz i didn't think this would be that big of a fix, i threw the cylinder in the front seat, and forgot about it for the resta the night.

 

 

Question One:

 

 

Should i just get the parts store to special order one? it'll come in in a day, but its a bit more expensive than a used one.

 

Or should i just make sure they give me the right year at the junkyard?

 

i don't wanna be replacing one again, cuz driving without brakes sucks, and i was wondering if you guys think i should trust a used one?

 

 

 

Questoin Two:

 

 

When taking off my shot master cylinder, there are the three bolt things on one side, with the stiff "wire" or metal things going to them.

 

I tried unscrewing but that didn't work, are those supposed to be unscrewed? or are they taken out a different way?

 

 

Thanks!

-Zepp

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Should i just get the parts store to special order one? it'll come in in a day, but its a bit more expensive than a used one.

 

Buy a rebuild kit? mws listed a good source, let me try to find it.

 

i was wondering if you guys think i should trust a used one?

That's hit and miss... :shrug: I am generally pretty cautious about the brake system though.

 

I'd have to look at the truck for Q#2.

 

B

 

Here you go...

http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...master+cylinder

Edited by Precise1
Found the thread
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The three circled parts are what i'm confused as to how i'm supposed to remove them.

 

I put a 10mm wrench and it fits fine, i just can't get it to turn. it just rounds the edges.

 

Is there a different way to remove these?

Am i doing it completely wrong?

 

DSC00495crop.jpg

 

and then a pic w/o the drawing just... because

 

DSC00495.jpg

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you may need a "5 sided wrench" if you have any really beefy 6 point box wrenches you can cut one side out slip it over the hose and then onto the fitting but it may still open up on you. and real 5 side wrenches are hard to find.

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You need a flare nut wrench for removing the brake lines. A single 10mm shouldn't cost more than 5 bucks or so at a hardware store or auto parts store. When you get a new MC, you have to bench bleed it to get all the air bubbles out, instructions will come with a new MC. Rockauto.com has MC's for either $40 or $48 new.

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Thanks guys!

 

I got the master cylinder replaced... turns out, that wasn't the problem.

 

When bleeding the master cylinder, i heard a little pitter splatter sound, went back and looked under the rear axle, and there was a nice puddle of brake fluid piling up.

 

The rear brake line, broke off at a kind of "T" junction, where three lines connect. (if i'm remembering correctly)

It doesn't look like replacing the brake line would be too hard, i've still gotta bleed the brakes and everything, and get the system full of fluid again.

 

Is there any big problem i may run into when removing, and attaching the new line? (It's the single line, that runs into the right rear caliper)

 

Thanks!

-Zepp

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Thanks guys!

 

I got the master cylinder replaced... turns out, that wasn't the problem.

 

When bleeding the master cylinder, i heard a little pitter splatter sound, went back and looked under the rear axle, and there was a nice puddle of brake fluid piling up.

 

The rear brake line, broke off at a kind of "T" junction, where three lines connect. (if i'm remembering correctly)

It doesn't look like replacing the brake line would be too hard, i've still gotta bleed the brakes and everything, and get the system full of fluid again.

 

Is there any big problem i may run into when removing, and attaching the new line? (It's the single line, that runs into the right rear caliper)

 

Thanks!

-Zepp

 

 

sucks that you replaced the master cylinder and it wasn't the problem, but good that you did finally find the leak!

 

you need to first figure out what part at the "T" junction has failed, whether it's the main line, one of the split lines (left/right), or the junction itself. you don't want to replace more than you need to. the fittings will also require a flare nut wrench. if you didn't already buy one, you can get them as singles at your local auto parts store (autozone, napa, advance, o'reilly, etc.) but i would recommend making sure what size you need first. you can use a normal open end wrench.

 

the best advice i can give you, when you're dealing with pressure fittings, is that you always hand-thread the connections before wrenching on them. make double- and triple-sure that you are all the way on, before you start tightening with the wrench. the last thing you want to do is strip out the fitting.

 

other than that, it's pretty straightforward. make sure to bleed the brakes extra well. and before you drive off for a test drive, pump the brakes to make sure you have brake pressure. you don't want to put it in gear, only to find that the only thing to stop your truck is your garage door, or your neighbors car across the street!

 

good luck, keep us updated.

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Yeah! i got the flare nut wrench, and a small pipe cutter.

 

The broken part, was right at the junction where it connects. Only about a quarter inch broke off inside the screw fitting. It was pretty simple to just cut off the jagged part, put the fitting back on, and then flare the end of the line. Because we had to cut off some of the line, we had to re-bend the line a little bit to make it fit from caliper to the junction.

 

It's too windy today, so bleeding of the brakes will happen tomorrow!

 

 

 

And about replacing the master cylinder.... i think it may be good that i did it, my brakes weren't very good to begin with, and i had checked my pads and everything seemed fine. The master cylinder was leaking, so i'm hoping this "fix" will turn into somewhat of an upgrade!

 

-Zepp

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